I don't build a lot of boats now unless I get a commission. This is a static model but it may be of interest as I do use un conventional technique's. I have used this construction with sailing models in the past. See my harbour, Flying Foam & Crowpill. Frist I mark the profile of the boat on 5mm ply including an cut outs. The position of the stations marked, then cut out. The plug is from high density foam insulation with a silver paper on each side. This comes in different thicknesses, I have 2". The stations I have drawn are 1" apart. Starting with the largest station mark on the silver, & cut out on band saw. Then cut in half giving identical put opposite pieces. Continuing the proses to the bow & stern. Glue onto the profile as in photo. One side has been sanded down to the paper on the larger side of each section. The other side still showing the steps. A ply sub deck cut & glued on top.
The plug is then covered with car body filler, to a thickness allowed for. Sanding smooth then a thin coat of paint, rubbing down, fill any hollows. repeat this process until no paint shows after sanding. Then the final coats of paint is applied.
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I don't build a lot of boats now unless I get a commission. This is a static model but it may be of interest as I do use un conventional technique's. I have used this construction with sailing models in the past. See my harbour, Flying Foam & Crowpill. Frist I mark the profile of the boat on 5mm ply including an cut outs. The position of the stations marked, then cut out. The plug is from high density foam insulation with a silver paper on each side. This comes in different thicknesses, I have 2". The stations I have drawn are 1" apart. Starting with the largest station mark on the silver, & cut out on band saw. Then cut in half giving identical put opposite pieces. Continuing the proses to the bow & stern. Glue onto the profile as in photo. One side has been sanded down to the paper on the larger side of each section. The other side still showing the steps. A ply sub deck cut & glued on top.
The plug is then covered with car body filler, to a thickness allowed for. Sanding smooth then a thin coat of paint, rubbing down, fill any hollows. repeat this process until no paint shows after sanding. Then the final coats of paint is applied.
HI Hammer
This would be a good way to make a plug for a fibreglass mould.
Using two pieces of 3mm ply will allow the completed plug to be split and laid flat on a piece of ply over which the port and starboard moulds can be formed.
Once dry rebuild the plug with the moulds attached and drill holes, for a nut and bolt, through the flanges of each mould.
Remove the plug and you will have a two part mould which will bolt together and in which you can make several hulls identical to your plug.
It's good to see tried and tested techniques appearing from time to time. Many of the skills that my generation were taught are being lost, and for me part of the enjoyment is in the making from scratch using material freely available.
I hope we see more posts showing how others make their models and encourages and insipres more modellers to try for themselves.
The deck is laid on a sub deck as normal. The trick this time is making the thin planks. After cutting strips off the edge of a 1inch board on a circular saw, they go through my home made thicknesser. This is a cheep belt sander with a bench mount. To which I have added a roller near the end of the belt. See the photo. IT IS VERY IMPORTANT TO PUSH AGAINST THE DIRECTION OF THE BELT. 💀 With the belt it will jam the roller or fingers.
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The deck is laid on a sub deck as normal. The trick this time is making the thin planks. After cutting strips off the edge of a 1inch board on a circular saw, they go through my home made thicknesser. This is a cheep belt sander with a bench mount. To which I have added a roller near the end of the belt. See the photo. IT IS VERY IMPORTANT TO PUSH AGAINST THE DIRECTION OF THE BELT. 💀 With the belt it will jam the roller or fingers.
Needed 3 small metal pulleys. Turned a ali rod with a 1/16 packing piece between one jaw. When down far enough move the rod around 180 deg; turn down to same size, the result will be a perfect oval. Could have done the same with a 4 jaw chuck, but the packing is a lot quicker to setup. Next remove the packing, and cut a grove with a thin parting tool, move then part off. Centre spot for the 1mm holes, place packing in the grove so it doesn't squash. The problem is holding, (could have done it in 4 jaw) but solved as the photo. Not many chucks will hold a 1mm drill, so I have glued it in to a brass tube. Twist thin wire through the holes & form a hook one end & eye the other.
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Needed 3 small metal pulleys. Turned a ali rod with a 1/16 packing piece between one jaw. When down far enough move the rod around 180 deg; turn down to same size, the result will be a perfect oval. Could have done the same with a 4 jaw chuck, but the packing is a lot quicker to setup. Next remove the packing, and cut a grove with a thin parting tool, move then part off. Centre spot for the 1mm holes, place packing in the grove so it doesn't squash. The problem is holding, (could have done it in 4 jaw) but solved as the photo. Not many chucks will hold a 1mm drill, so I have glued it in to a brass tube. Twist thin wire through the holes & form a hook one end & eye the other.
As this is a static model I wanted to curve the sails, as though the wind was blowing. First stage soak cord in white glue over night. Pin the cloth down over polyurethane sheet. Mark out around a paper pattern with pencil. Stick the wetted cord on the pencil line with pins & masking tape, leave to dry. Next day remove the tape, cut out with a scalpel, leaving a margin outside the cord. Mark the seams with pencil, with this small scale the only way? Tape the sail on to a window with the marks against the glass, the light will show the seams so the other side can be marked. Lay the sail back on the poly sheet and paint with watered down white glue, the water prof variety. Suspend sail so it forms the required shape. Do not let the sail inside the cord touch any thing, it may not stick but will leave a mark. Cut with a scalpel tight to the outside of the cord job done. One other trick I use a lot is place a model on an old pillow, will not damage model & will hold it in various positions securely.
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As this is a static model I wanted to curve the sails, as though the wind was blowing. First stage soak cord in white glue over night. Pin the cloth down over polyurethane sheet. Mark out around a paper pattern with pencil. Stick the wetted cord on the pencil line with pins & masking tape, leave to dry. Next day remove the tape, cut out with a scalpel, leaving a margin outside the cord. Mark the seams with pencil, with this small scale the only way? Tape the sail on to a window with the marks against the glass, the light will show the seams so the other side can be marked. Lay the sail back on the poly sheet and paint with watered down white glue, the water prof variety. Suspend sail so it forms the required shape. Do not let the sail inside the cord touch any thing, it may not stick but will leave a mark. Cut with a scalpel tight to the outside of the cord job done. One other trick I use a lot is place a model on an old pillow, will not damage model & will hold it in various positions securely.
This would be a good way to make a plug for a fibreglass mould.
Using two pieces of 3mm ply will allow the completed plug to be split and laid flat on a piece of ply over which the port and starboard moulds can be formed.
Once dry rebuild the plug with the moulds attached and drill holes, for a nut and bolt, through the flanges of each mould.
Remove the plug and you will have a two part mould which will bolt together and in which you can make several hulls identical to your plug.
It's good to see tried and tested techniques appearing from time to time. Many of the skills that my generation were taught are being lost, and for me part of the enjoyment is in the making from scratch using material freely available.
I hope we see more posts showing how others make their models and encourages and insipres more modellers to try for themselves.
Thank you for sharing.
Dave 😀