These motors push the boat along so fast, Way above any scale speed I would say, To the point of almost comical, I will take the motor out soon and look at the brushes, Then we can make some head way, I may look at a pair of 385 motors to push this project forward.

Thanks again everyone for the guidance.

The rc gear seems ok. The motors look similar to some we use in our public sail tugs. They were sourced from vending equipment and have brush gear controlled by a spring. They work well but can at times get clogged up with lubrication that affects the brush function. I usually take each motor out of the model and give a good clean. I use isoPropyl alcohol but parrafin or any similar degreaser would work. The aim is to make sure the brushes seat on the commutator freely without sticking in their guides ans allowing the spring clip to push the brush freely.
Direct connection to a battery will re-bed the brushes and a very light drop of oil on the bearings at each end will help free any stiffness. I run for about a minute in each direction to make sure everything is free.
Could be the brushes are worn down in which case they will need replacing. This is not an easy option as spares are probably not obtainable.
Looking at the size they appear to be 385 or 400 motors which seem a bit on the light side for this model. As a rule of thumb the props should be no greater diameter than the motor casing.
Hopefully you will be able to resurrect the motor and all will be OK.
Suitable replacement will depend on the size of prop.
Good luck
Dave

have you checked your brushes ? it looks as though your motors have an open ( outside the can) brush setup so an easy replacement

Here we go chaps! One shoes the motors with a peg for perspective, the other shows the red wire has been cut by the shop and taped away to avoid short circuits, I have checked the prop and both free ad moving with minimal but still a degree of play in them, I can turn both by hand.

Thanks all, I will get snapping tomorrow, it was wired up by a model shop in Sussex as I am hopeless as you can at this stuff, I would have thought they would have known to remove the red on one, They both run on same RX but it is a whole new radio set and comes with no RX battery pack seperate from the main battery, New tech so I was told.

From the info you have provided it would appear one motor /prop shaft is running tight. Turning the prop of each motor should feel free. if one is tight then it's likely your lock nuts at each end of the propshaft have become loose and tightend on the prop tube. Releasing the coupling and slackening the prop shaft should solve the tightness, if it's still stiff then you possibly have a problem with rust etc in that shaft, which will need to be removed and cleaned with wire wool. Do make sure the locknut at the prop end is tight to the prop, the adjustment is made at the coupling end, and there should be a washer between each locknut and the prop tube. Play should be minimal, we used to use cigarette papers but as long as its free all will be OK. Too big a gap will allow water seepage.
You can check the motors by disconnecting the ESC and applying the battery direct. Both motors should give similar performance.

Haverlock has explained how you can check each ESC but please do heed his advice about disconnecting one of the red wires from the receiver plug. Each ESC has a built in BEC circuit and you will experience some strange results if two are connected to the same receiver.

As a matter of course I usually test all me new ESCs with a small motor outside the model to make sure it is working OK. it was not unknown in the past for ESCs to fail out of the box. it doesn't happen often and I have always received a free replacement but it's easier to find out before installing.

if you do have a damaged motor perhaps you could provide a picture so we can advise as to a suitable replacement. A 50p coin included in the pic will help gauge the size.

even if on different functions you need to remove 1 (one) red wire. Otherwise you may fry something!!! At the very least your risking an " earth loop " since the ESCs have battery eliminators your feeding voltage to your RX from 2 sources, never a good idea.

HI all, These speed controls are brand new used once with no real issues at all, They are run on a 5 channel handset & RX, one motor is working fine and the other ESC is working by the looks of it but the motor is ceasing up, This motor was sticking since the day I got the model and using electrical contact spray on it has not removed the problem as suggested by a friend. The ESC are on separate channels thus independent. They appear to work fine and both have red wires in, Hence me thinking it is a motor that is damaged. Model Slipway said they could not tell me what motor size I needed but I believe the 2 x motors mentioned above will do it but I only need one and no coupling so do not really want to pay £28 for one motor as it were.

ok lets try to sort this out rather than diving in and replacing this and that.

1) disconnect 1 of the speed controllers.
Leave the other connected and make sure one motor is connected. Now try the system.

repeat with other controller.

While its possible BOTH motors have died its not very likely.

its possible you have fried something if you had 2 ESC connected at same time,( note previous post about removing one red wire)

So you may need to find another Rx as a tester.

if you REALLY need motors
http://www.modelslipway.com/

2x motors & couplings: £28 (6v)
Working bow thruster £35

hI ,

when you run to mtroniks speed controllers together, you need to remove the red wire from the connector on one of the controllers and tape it up so you don't short it any where. this should be in the instructions you get with it. I run my Waverley paddle boat like this and works fine. I hope this helps you. read the bit in red in photo

david

Morning, M-Troniks Viper Marine 20's A pair of them and a 6v 12Ah Lead acid sealed battery.

hi,
what make of speed controller are they.

david