Getting the ballast correct

Started by Ronald
3 replies 1 like 0 followers Last activity: 9 years ago
#4

Getting the ballast correct

Glad to have helped. Looking forward to seeing some on water shots in the Spring!
Live long and prosper

Dave
#3

Getting the ballast correct

Dave I did as suggested. The water line on the plan is for a pond boat or shelf model, so having placed four AA batteries in it the water line changed by 1/8” . I think if I am careful about the size of sail put on it, I should be able to see it on the pond in the Spring.
#2

Getting the ballast correct

The plan seems to indicate weight in the keel, which is where you will need it.
I suggest you put the model in your bath add the steel and see how the model floats. All the keel and an inch or so of the hull should be submerged with the weight battery and servos resting in the hull. Add or remove weight to get about right.
I would cut a slot in the keel to add the weight as low as possible. The plan seems to suggest this. Seal temporarily and recheck for correct waterline. You could use cling film to seal whilst checking. When happy make good the keel and fit the servos etc and check again before fixing the deck.
Live long and prosper

Dave
Liked by Ronald
#1

Getting the ballast correct

The Gypsy kit includes a steel plate to use in the keel for ballast. I measured the main sail from the plan which is 6.5” long the boom and 13.5 along the mast. The jib measures 5” by 8”.

I confess my understanding of the laws of physics is poor. How does one calculate the amount of weight to build into a model based upon the sail area?

I read from another forum that mild steel bar stock and weighs in at 81gr.

After I secure the keel to the hull, my plan is to use bird-shot glued along the bottom inside of the hull as needed .

The last photo is not my boat but shows how another person cur out the keel area to secure the mild steel bar for weight.

I plan to do the same, unless I hear from some more experienced builders with their suggestions.

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