Yes I suppose as you are adding minor intentional blemishes this will look OK. The reason I asked was that once clear cote is applied any touch up work is a nightmare to get to blend into the original.
Good to hear that you too can't decide when a model is finished 😁 . I guess the best answer is when it goes to the breakers yard!

HI Dave.

I have found by trial and error, that it is possible to either put the "weathering" on first, then clear cote to "seal all", or if you prefer to stabilise the base colours first with clear cote, it is possible to do so, then add the weathering after and then re caot the lot. this is down to personal preference, as the weathering colours are quite permanent, in fact I am yet to coat over mine on the Moorhen, as I could not fully decide if I had "done enough" or not ! I still keep looking at it in different lights and thinking.....hhhhhhmmm....... perhaps a little bit more here.... oh and maybe..... you know what I mean.but Littel weathering at a time, then stand back and check, try not to get carried away and ruin the lot.

HI Gregg
If you apply a clear cote were you still be able to blend in the after effects into the underlying paint? Did you then apply a further clear cote to protect the weathering?
Most weathering on my boats is real rust! but I admire the effects you have achieved. 😀 Many years ago I used to travel daily on the Ferry's over the Mersey and agree with you that a look at the real thing is a good way to see the effects. Pity mobile phone cameras were not about at the time!

Thanks for that, if you try your local model shop, I dare say they should have these tamiya paint kits in stock, as they are sold more to the "model tank" brigade more than anything, but you can use on any model.

if you follow this link [below] it will hopefully give you a better idea, or if you try the tamiya web site for further info, it may assist you.

Just remember, some boats are kept quite pristine, The replica of a London/Thames Sun Tug Was kept in tip top order, in so much as the crew were not allowed to leave work for the day untill the tug had been fully washed down, all ropes stowed away, any paintwork brushed in etc. yet you look in the gangway of your local bus............. and it looks like it hasnt been swept out for weeks !

http://www.tamiya.com/english/products/87080weathering/

thanks greg the weathering in your pics is great and I will certantly look for the tamia weathering paint

happy modeling

keitht

Firstly,once its fully painted, go over all of thwe paintwork again with a satin finish clear cote, so you loose the original high gloss finish. Then, id really suggest you go look at some boats in a local [or nearest harbour] first. just to gte some good ideas as to how the rust lines show [and dont show], how the rusty streaks, drop down from fittings, windows, handles, bulwark apertures etc. its not a science, but too much "rusty paint" and the model is ruined, but if you are going to do it, then much better to get some background pictures to help you along. I did find the "tamiya weathering paint trays" very good and easy to apply. the paint is virtually a "dust" and you apply it with a fine brush and simply "dust it on", then you can also use a firmer brush to "smear" or "streak" the rust lines and also by lightly using your finger, you can fade the rust streaks in to the surrounding paintwork. Dont forget to get the deck volour right and remember to add "wear" to the "well worn paths" of the crew, so step edges, door frames, handrails all get a beating in time. you may also find that the odd bit of a slightly different hade of paint , especially on hard wearing areas of the deck or hull may of been repainted whilst in dock, so slightly different [or newer] looking paint tones work too.

Ive attached a few pics of my own RMAS Moorhen, which is a naval mooring buoy maintenance vessel, just to give you some ideas.
you can see the original green colour of the deck, but with use, its now more rust than paint, the windows show signs of rusty lines as the water has dripped off thew window frames. the lifeboat platform frame also shows signs of ageing, where salt water has lain on them.

All ideas for this were taken from actual photos of the real vessel, so again, a look at some "working boats" will help you trememdously, as there is no real "golden book of rules" for weathering, expcept for one ...... "apply weathering in small stages", as you can alway add more, once dry, but you cant take it back off, you have to start all over again.