Hi Graham,
Thanks for your fantastic reply!
I will probably play with it on the bench initially,with a new insight.
Doc.

Hi Doc,

A latching relay has two coils, one to operate the relay (on) and one to release it (off). My latching relay has 5 connections. It is designed to be mounted onto a circuit board. Two large pins for the relay contacts (50A) and three small pins for the two coils. On the side of the relay was information which indicated that the common connection to the two coils should be the +ve connection. The diagram shows the circuit wiring. The on/off switch I used is a centre off toggle switch, sprung loaded each way from centre. Pushing one way applies power to one relay coil, switching the relay on. Pushing the toggle the other way applies power to the other coil, switching the relay off. These are usually described in catalogues as ' (on) - off - (on) ' switches.

I didn't use a circuit board to mount the relay. I simply soldered wires to the pins, and insulated them with heatshrink.

Graham93

Hi Graham,
Referring to your reply on the latching relay,mine has arrived from China after nearly three months!
My question is;what connectors did you use on the pins?
Thanks in anticipation.
Doc.

Graham,
Fantastic reply,I have seen latching relays,but did not understand the significance.I do now,and will follow this steer.Many thanks,

Doc

Hi drspock,

"If I want to switch it with a sensibly sized switch,presumably I would need a relay,as 90A @12V is a pretty heavy load."

I use a 50A latching relay together with a blade fuse in my Crash Tender to switch the ESC power. Using a latching relay means the relay doesn't continually draw power, only a short pulse to switch it on, and another to switch it off. The relay has two coils, one for on and one for off. These are activated using a small centre off spring loaded toggle switch mounted under the sliding hatch on the forward cabin roof. Push one way for on, and the other for off. The second switch is for the separate receiver/auxillaries battery.

Graham93

Sorry 2 MFA 540's

Got 2 MFA 54's for mine😊😊😊

Many thanks Doug. I am using a 60A fuse but like the idea of a quick flick startup/off.
The boat is the model that Robbob has a build blog on the site,a 46" crash tender.It is heavy and needs a realistic scale speed.
Motor is Overlander thumperT4260/06.
Cheers,John

Thanks Ianh,I have a 60A fuse ready,but do like the idea of just flicking a small switch.

Same as RNinMunich
I don't use a switch but have a removable blade fuse.
As said I doubt you will use 90 Amps!(Check the maximum draw at the motor not stalled!) You want it to fail before stalling The cable would be horrendous👍👍

Hi Doc,
The Seaking series generic manual simply shows that you CAN connect two batteries in series on the higher power ESCs used with motors that can run on higher voltages.
Or you may want to use two lower voltage LiPos to spread the weight , e.g. port and starboard.
It doesn't mean you must! 😉
Without knowing what boat and motor you are using it with we can't say what is adequate or not🤔 Or what switch current rating you would need.
I doubt you will ever be using 90A. That is only the max continuous current rating of the ESC.
Check your motor specs and see if it gives the current drawn at maximum efficiency.
That will give you a good guide👍
DON'T FORGET A FUSE BETWEEN BATTERY-(IES) AND ESC!!!
I also have some car blade type circuit breakers (Halfords etc) which switch off automatically in emergency (stalled motor!) or can be used as a manual ON/OFF switch.
I think they go up to about 50A or so, which might be enough for your application.
Are you going racing??
Hope that helps.
Cheers, Doug 😎
PS I get my Hobbywing Quicrun ESCs on a 'fast truck from Krick', last two arrived three days after ordering 😊