Brillant. Thank you. Once again you have all been very helpful.

While I'm here, As you can see in the pictures, the hull of the deck has been nicely "planked" (forgive me, but I have no idea what else to call it). However, the bits of decking that form part of the bits that lift off hasn't. I presume both were going to be planked to match the rest of the hull but my friend never got around to it. I have no idea how to do replicate this so any ideas/suggestions would be great.

Well, I've spent a good few hours on the hull and this is where we are at. I'm halting working at this point basically until I can hear what you guys think and make sure I'm heading in the right direction. Basically, I've been, very carefully, sanding the hull back to remove the loose paint that the gold lining had caused. Some of the paint, mainly around the bow and water line came off fairly easily. However what you can see left on it, especially the grey above the water line is very difficult to sand off. So the question I have now is... Do I Z-poxy just the bits of exposed wood, Or give the whole thing a coat. Or would you even recommend carrying on sanding the hull right back to start afresh, even though the paint thats left seems pretty good and doesnt appear to be going anywhere.

On a side note I've also filled in the door on the starboard side which shouldnt be there and also started with some minor detailing of the deck.

Brillant. Thank you again everyone for the replies. I'll let you know how I get on in due course.

Firstly, can I just say many Thanks to everyone who has replied. What a brilliant forum this is. So many helpful people want to help. A real pleasure to be part of.

RHBaker, Thanks for your suggestion but sadly that is way too much more than I am planning. As I say I want to keep as much of my friends works as possible so replacing large amounts of hull is a No No. My priority is to concentrate on making the hull watertight when the motor is running, give it a repaint into white livery, update some of the electrics as discussed before and finish off the deck with detailing and masts etc etc.

HI Dave976, Thank you. I will see about fitting some washers and lubrication and hopefully that will help.

John, Thank you very much for your detective work and plans. When you say "No matting is required", what do I just do with this Zap Z-poxy? Just paint it on, leave to dry and sand back? Does this have to go on bare wood or can it go over existing paint like, the hull sides or bits I've missed when sanding? I did think about that Sand N seal but if you recommend this Zap - Z poxy then I'll give this a go instead.

Thank you once again Colin and Martin555. It's probably a stupid question but if I dig out some of the existing glue to fix with two-part epoxy, is this compatible with the Zap - Z poxy (or Sand N Seal) which I'm going to then cover the bottom of the hull with?

Hi Martin. Thanks. If I do find a crack or split, What’s the best way to repair it? Some kind of expo resin?

Hi John. Brillant, Thank you very much.

Hi Martin555/ Dave976, Many thanks for your replies. A few more pictures attached of the puddle which obviously gets progressively worse the longer it runs. As you can see the puddle, which appears almost immediately after I start running the propeller is a good way away from the end of the shaft. If let run long enough, a puddle appears in the same place but on the other side of the bulk head. I'm not sure what the resin channel is for as the prop shaft seems to enter the hull underneath the bulkhead. I've look on the underside but there doesn't seem any obvious signs of cracking or splits. Do you think I am wishful thinking in a coat of Sand N seal will cure this? As I say it only appears when the motor is running.

Thank you Colin. I will add washers to my shopping list.

Hi John, Wow, that's stunning. The finish is exceptional. May I ask what colour you used for below the water line? Are any of your fittings like the Anchor etc etc available to buy anywhere? I love the port holes but there's no way I'm skilled or experienced enough to start drilling into the hull. I wonder if "simulated" ones are available anywhere? Maybe like etched ones that could just been glued on as a representation.

Thank you again to everyone else for the replies. I would like to keep it as original as possible and retain as much as my late friend's work, but as already mentioned, to retain the x8 D batteries just isn't practical for me. I've now tried the Bobs board with power, and although it "kind" of works, its sparks a lot and is very intermittent. So this will definitely be replaced. I don't know it its relevant but the fuss wired into the existing system is rated 5Amps? Am I right in thinking the new ESC will take care of all that? I must state, although I wish to upgrade the electrics , nothing I do will be irreversible, so it can all be put back to how it was should the need arise.

A quick question, can I apply "Sand N seal" over the existing paint once its had a rub down or does it all need to come off? Or should I just apply it to the areas where the wood has been exposed?

Hi Martin555, Yes this is the first model boat I have undertaken. I've built a few O gauge Brass/Nickle silver but never anything like this before.

The leak has me a little concerned as it doesn't seem to be coming from "inside" the prop shaft (the bit where the tube ends, the shaft emerges and connects to the motor , that's more in the middle of the boat - Does that make sense?. It seems to be coming from the area where it enters the hull in the rear compartment? But as I say it only appears when the prop is running.

Dave, the arrangement its Prop, Locking nut, Prop shaft, Locking nut, Universal joint thing that connects to motor - No washers either end.

Let me just say Thank you again for all your help and I look forward to reading further advice/replies.

Hi Dave976, Thanks, Yes it is very well built. I just hope I can carry on the good work. I'm led to believe it was stored in the loft for many years which obvously isnt ideal. Ive had it in the bath today for a long period and it remained completely watertight. Ive also tested the motor with a external power supply and that also works fine. However when the motor/propeller is running, it develops a minor leak where the prop shaft enters the hull. Any ideas why this could be and what can be done about it?

Thank you everyone. Here are a couple more pictures, one showing where the paint has pealed off. The gold water line looks like its some kind of thin tape and a small piece at the bow has come away, taking the paint with it. Obvously the whole lot will have to come off when I sand it back, hopefully not taking too much more paint with it.

My plan so far (No idea if its a good one so please please let me know if its not,) is to replace the Bobs board with a 15 amp Mtroniks electronic speed controller. I was also thinking about replace the 8x D batteries with a 8.4v NiCad battery. Ive ordered some bits from Mac mouldings but Im still missing a lot like the Anchor winch, Anchor, life rafts etc etc. Any ideas who sell suitable versions?

Then my plan for the hull is lightly sand it back to get a good key and see how much bare wood shows through. I was then thinking about using Deluxe "Sand N seal" before undercoating with Halfords White enamel primer? For the two top coats, does anyone know fi the White Mediterean colour was Satin or Gloss. Also any help with what colour below the water line would also be very helpful. Ive never used any of these products before, I'm just going on what Ive read other do, so as I say, if Im heading for disaster, please tell me.

Very recently I inherted a 1/24 scale Vosper RTTL with a wooden hull which I plan to finish off. Im guessing its about 40 years old. Unfortunately some of the paint is starting to flake off so a repaint of the Hull is going to be nessesary. I was thinking all over "Flash" white livery. Could anyone advise me on which would be the best way to tackle this. Will I need to re-seal the hull and if so what with? Also any advise about which paint / Primer to use would also be greatly appriciated.
Kind regards, Phil