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    1/24 scale Vosper RTTL with a wooden hull
    by PhilJones πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ ( Able Seaman)
    πŸ“£










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    27 Posts 26 Replies 13 Photos 69 Likes
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    PhilJones
    Able Seaman
    πŸ“ 1/24 scale Vosper RTTL with a wooden hull
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    Country: πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ United Kingdom
    Online: 41 minutes ago
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    Firstly, can I just say many Thanks to everyone who has replied. What a brilliant forum this is. So many helpful people want to help. A real pleasure to be part of.

    RHBaker, Thanks for your suggestion but sadly that is way too much more than I am planning. As I say I want to keep as much of my friends works as possible so replacing large amounts of hull is a No No. My priority is to concentrate on making the hull watertight when the motor is running, give it a repaint into white livery, update some of the electrics as discussed before and finish off the deck with detailing and masts etc etc.

    HI Dave976, Thank you. I will see about fitting some washers and lubrication and hopefully that will help.

    John, Thank you very much for your detective work and plans. When you say "No matting is required", what do I just do with this Zap Z-poxy? Just paint it on, leave to dry and sand back? Does this have to go on bare wood or can it go over existing paint like, the hull sides or bits I've missed when sanding? I did think about that Sand N seal but if you recommend this Zap - Z poxy then I'll give this a go instead.

    Thank you once again Colin and Martin555. It's probably a stupid question but if I dig out some of the existing glue to fix with two-part epoxy, is this compatible with the Zap - Z poxy (or Sand N Seal) which I'm going to then cover the bottom of the hull with?
    1
    RHBaker
    Lieutenant Commander
    πŸ“ 1/24 scale Vosper RTTL with a wooden hull
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    Country: πŸ‡¨πŸ‡¦ Canada
    Online: 5 minutes ago
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    All good suggestions.
    As this vessel was never made with a single screw, originally triple and then twin, why not rebuild the keel with fresh wood and convert to twin screws?
    Have just completed a similar model, but using a GF hull. With twin screws it has good performance and stability.
    2
    dave976
    Able Seaman
    πŸ“ 1/24 scale Vosper RTTL with a wooden hull
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    Country: πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ United Kingdom
    Online: 16 hours ago
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    Hi Phil
    Looking at your pics it is clear that there is water entering via the prop tube on one side. There is evidence in the form of staining on the motor bracket, which is absent on the other motor bracket. There is also evidence of water damage in the forward compartment on the same side, which suggests over time the water is seeping through the bulkhead from where your puddle is collecting
    . Capillary action is dependant on shaft rotation which would explain why only one side is affected. It could also be that that prop shaft and tube are worn or need lubrication. Washers and lubrication will be your easiest and quickest option without resorting to structural repair, which I suspect is not required. A piece of dry paper towel under the prop shaft whilst running in water should identify if this is the source of your leak. Run the motors in both directions for a couple of minutes to be sure.
    4
    JOHN
    Warrant Officer
    πŸ“ 1/24 scale Vosper RTTL with a wooden hull
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    Country: πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ United Kingdom
    Online: 1 hour ago
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    I do enjoy a bit of detective work - I believe that this hull was constructed from the Vic Smeed plans. What gave it away was that there was a number written on one of the frames which corresponds with a number on the plan for that correct frame. Also, there are 2 support blocks at the stern for the rudder posts which are also drawn in on this plan.

    I thought that this was a Veron kit - but - now after further investigation it strongly suggests that it was from the free plan which I used in conjunction with other material to build my model.

    See attached - so therefore if we look back at the leak problem I am now wondering if there is a crack along the keel which is hidden by the paint. My method would be to sand the paint all the way back (removing all the paint off the bottom of the hull) and once the hull is nice and clean and wiped down with acetone & give it a coating of Zap Z-poxy finishing resin. No matting is required.

    John
    4
    Colin H
    Vice Admiral
    πŸ“ 1/24 scale Vosper RTTL with a wooden hull
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    Country: πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ United Kingdom
    Online: 6 seconds ago
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    Phil, Martin is certainly thinking like me, I had an old Sea Commander that did the same, there wasn't any obvious way the water got in the paint was immaculate and the inside looked good, it puzzled me for ages, so I put some water inside and hung it in a sling from a beam in the garage. No water escaped till I ran the motor and then I found water where the prop tube exited.
    I cured this by drying out for a few days then I made up a 50/50 solution of Ezekote and poured it in and went through the same procedure again, once the liquid showed on the outside I allowed it to dry again.
    After a few days in a warm room I decided to do a test in the bath, even with extra ballast on board no leaks after an hour with the motor running intermittently changing to reverse and back again.
    5 years on and still no sign of leakage.
    Cheers Colin.
    4
    Fair winds and calm waters, COLIN.
    Martin555
    Fleet Admiral
    πŸ“ 1/24 scale Vosper RTTL with a wooden hull
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    Country: πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ United Kingdom
    Online: 2 hours ago
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    Hi Phil,
    I would be tempted to use a two part epoxy adhesive like Araldite.
    First i would cut the area a bit deeper so that the glue has somewhere to go instead of just lying on the surface because when you rub down the surface you will be back to square one.

    Martin555.
    2
    If it looks right it probably is.
    PhilJones
    Able Seaman
    πŸ“ 1/24 scale Vosper RTTL with a wooden hull
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    Country: πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ United Kingdom
    Online: 41 minutes ago
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    Hi Martin. Thanks. If I do find a crack or split, What’s the best way to repair it? Some kind of expo resin?
    1
    Martin555
    Fleet Admiral
    πŸ“ 1/24 scale Vosper RTTL with a wooden hull
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    Country: πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ United Kingdom
    Online: 2 hours ago
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    Hi Phil,
    Strange,
    I am now beginning to think that the hull has a joint were the bulkhead /frame is.
    It may be opening up due to the vibration of the motor/prop.

    If so when you sand back the Hull then hopefully you will find it.
    The prop shaft looks well sealed altho if you have a joint in the Hull sheets right at the point were the shaft exits the Hull then that must be sealed from the outside first before you seal it on the inside.

    When i zoom in on photo two it looks like the shaft tube exits the Hull well before were the puddle appears.

    Try looking to see if there is a Hull sheet joint around that area.
    You will also have the keel joint i might be coming in there.

    You may have to scrape some paint off to see it.

    Martin555.
    1
    If it looks right it probably is.
    PhilJones
    Able Seaman
    πŸ“ 1/24 scale Vosper RTTL with a wooden hull
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    Country: πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ United Kingdom
    Online: 41 minutes ago
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    Hi John. Brillant, Thank you very much.

    Hi Martin555/ Dave976, Many thanks for your replies. A few more pictures attached of the puddle which obviously gets progressively worse the longer it runs. As you can see the puddle, which appears almost immediately after I start running the propeller is a good way away from the end of the shaft. If let run long enough, a puddle appears in the same place but on the other side of the bulk head. I'm not sure what the resin channel is for as the prop shaft seems to enter the hull underneath the bulkhead. I've look on the underside but there doesn't seem any obvious signs of cracking or splits. Do you think I am wishful thinking in a coat of Sand N seal will cure this? As I say it only appears when the motor is running.

    Thank you Colin. I will add washers to my shopping list.
    1
    JOHN
    Warrant Officer
    πŸ“ 1/24 scale Vosper RTTL with a wooden hull
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    Country: πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ United Kingdom
    Online: 1 hour ago
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    Hi there Phil,

    Thank you for the comments on the boat. The hull bottom paint was Humbrol Brick Red number 70 with a coating of satin varnish over the top of it.

    The white was Humbrol 130.

    The fittings I made them basically myself - however, I know Battlecraft do a lot 1/24 scale fittings. A lot of them can be adapted for this model.

    It isn't too bad to drill into the hull - the way I normally do it - is to cover the hull with a scrap of masking tape, mark off the positions of the holes on the masking tape and then with a small pin drill, drill through first and then gradually open the holes up with slightly bigger drills and a small round file to finish off.

    If you draw on the position of the portholes first on the masking tape that gives you the advantage of keeping them in line. Old golden rule MEASURE TWICE BEFORE YOU CUT OR DRILL 😊 and I still get it wrong :-)

    Here is a link to various size portholes.

    https://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/cgi-bin/ss000001.pl?pag...

    John
    https://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/cgi-bin/ss000001.pl?page=search&SS=brass+port+holes&PR=-1&TB=O&ACTION=Go%21
    πŸ”—
    3
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