A few photos showing how my fireboat was. it's been in garage loft for 30 yrs. I have now started with the renovation, will post more phots.
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Have started rubbing the hull down and repairing joints that had come unstuck, has taken sometime to rub down and repair dents, cracks. Also fitted new Prop tube.
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Have started rubbing the hull down and repairing joints that had come unstuck, has taken sometime to rub down and repair dents, cracks. Also fitted new Prop tube.
Mike, it took me ages to get the old paint off. it had been brush painted very thickly and had severe paint runs all over the hull. I started with a, Stanley knife blade and scrapped off what I could. Then used a small detail sander which saved me a lot of elbow grease (worked really well) then I just used sanding paper and a block of wood to get the paint off where the detailed sander could not reach, really difficult inside the Hull. This took me quite some time until I reached a finish I was happy with. I didn't use any chemicals as I was worried that it may affect the glued joints and balsa wood. All that work (never thought it would end) has paid off now so I'm happy I spent the time to get the Hull rubbed down the way I did.
After painting with sanding sealer and yet more rubbing down, the first coat of primer was applied. the primer shows up Imperfections that need more work.
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After painting with sanding sealer and yet more rubbing down, the first coat of primer was applied. the primer shows up Imperfections that need more work.
HI Salv, what primer are you using, and are you applying it with a an air brush or spray gun. I have a 46 and a 34 fire tender both in need of repainting. I have always used thinned paint applied with a brush but always lacks a good finish. What type of sander did you use when rubbing the hull down. Hope that you don't mind me picking your brains. Graham (jelley_baby)
HI Graham, the type of primer I am using is normal aerosol can, grey primer I bought from Halfords, I also use, Spray Filler primer (Yellow/orangie colour) also bought from Halfords which is much thicker and covers better than normal grey primer. I always start with a couple of light coats of grey primer and leave the paint to dry well, at least 2 or 3 days before I sand the hull again (With wet and dry 900 to 1000 grit), end up sanding off most of the excess paint when sanding to get that good smooth flat finish. After rubbing down all the Imperfections show up, if it's to bad I then give the hull a coat of the sanding filler primer perfect for filling any sunken areas that need building up, again allow a couple of days to dry and harden then rub down again. I am now at the stage of filling minor Imperfections with kniffing putty which is basically filler, allow that to dry well then rub down, That's where I'm at presently. The sander I used is a cheap detailed sander (A£15) I bought from B&Q with a diamond shaped head, I found it perfect for getting at difficult areas of the hull. inside the hull was a lot more difficult 90% was sanded by hand. Hope this helps, Graham. Gladly help if I can. Salv
Just an update of progress with restoration, it's been a while since I last posted any info. Have installed the rudder and water cooling pipes, I have installed the rudder servo away from possible water ingress, the photos show how the rudder servo was postioned originally and how I have installed it now. I have also re-routed the water cooling return pipe, originally the pipes exhauted from the side of the Hull as shown in photo but now the water exhaust pipe is from the back of the Hull. This way it looks more realistic and servo is away from any possible water leaks from the rear end of the hull.
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Just an update of progress with restoration, it's been a while since I last posted any info. Have installed the rudder and water cooling pipes, I have installed the rudder servo away from possible water ingress, the photos show how the rudder servo was postioned originally and how I have installed it now. I have also re-routed the water cooling return pipe, originally the pipes exhauted from the side of the Hull as shown in photo but now the water exhaust pipe is from the back of the Hull. This way it looks more realistic and servo is away from any possible water leaks from the rear end of the hull.
The motor (XYH42-50 700kv 41A Brushless outrunner) bought from, Giant Cod has been installed as well as the prop shaft and aligned.
I have also loosely mounted the ESC (Hobbywing Seaking 60A) and connected the water cooling tubes to and from the ESC. Once all running gear and accesories were fitted I put the boat in the bath and checked to see how the boat floated and also checked to see where the water line is compared to my markings. The water line was spot on how I had marked it on the hull with a home made scribbing block and the boat sat in the water level, really pleased with result at least I know now that where everything is positioned should be OK, there were no water leaks as well. I don't have a battery yet but I added a weight the same as the battery weight I will be purchasing and installed it to the boat just for experimenting for the water linea nd balance of the boat. I have also just about completed the rear deck the photos show how it was originally and how it is now.
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The motor (XYH42-50 700kv 41A Brushless outrunner) bought from, Giant Cod has been installed as well as the prop shaft and aligned.
I have also loosely mounted the ESC (Hobbywing Seaking 60A) and connected the water cooling tubes to and from the ESC. Once all running gear and accesories were fitted I put the boat in the bath and checked to see how the boat floated and also checked to see where the water line is compared to my markings. The water line was spot on how I had marked it on the hull with a home made scribbing block and the boat sat in the water level, really pleased with result at least I know now that where everything is positioned should be OK, there were no water leaks as well. I don't have a battery yet but I added a weight the same as the battery weight I will be purchasing and installed it to the boat just for experimenting for the water linea nd balance of the boat. I have also just about completed the rear deck the photos show how it was originally and how it is now.
Thanks for the responce, I am looking forward to testing the Fireboat within the next couple of weeks and am interested to see how the motor performs. Will let you know.
Fireboat completed, only a few small Items to fit, Samson Post and scramble nets. Have carried out a series of trials at Hartsholme model boat club In Lincoln, first trials required weights In the rear of the boat and I had to move the Battery and ESC to the rear of the boat, due to the bow being heavy causing the boat to plough Into the water and not plane.
Once the ballast (approx 400g) and repositioning of battery (3 cell 2200 mAh) ESC to the rear of the boat was carried out the boat ran superbly.
I have fitted a 2 blade 40 mm Graupner prop which gave me good speed and run time of approximately 18 minutes.
Really pleased with boat performance. Will add video of boat In action once I have edited the movie.
Thanks to this website I have a superb model boat
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Fireboat completed, only a few small Items to fit, Samson Post and scramble nets. Have carried out a series of trials at Hartsholme model boat club In Lincoln, first trials required weights In the rear of the boat and I had to move the Battery and ESC to the rear of the boat, due to the bow being heavy causing the boat to plough Into the water and not plane.
Once the ballast (approx 400g) and repositioning of battery (3 cell 2200 mAh) ESC to the rear of the boat was carried out the boat ran superbly.
I have fitted a 2 blade 40 mm Graupner prop which gave me good speed and run time of approximately 18 minutes.
Really pleased with boat performance. Will add video of boat In action once I have edited the movie.
Thanks to this website I have a superb model boat
Thanks for the response, Balsabasher. it has taken me about one & a half years to complete working on the boat when I had some spare time.
Look forward to meeting you at Hartsholme Lake. I had a similar problem with the steering and found that the plastic rudder servo arm I fitted was slipping on the brass rudder shaft as I could not tighten the screw enough, I decided to replace the plastic rudder servo arm with one I made out of aluminium I also filled a flat on the rudder shaft and fitted a setscrew and lock-nut to the aluminium servo arm so that once the steering is setup I can lock the arm properly. Don't have any more problems now with steering.