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π¬ Restored 34" Aerokits Fireboat
13 years ago by
π¬π§ sbambi (
Leading Seaman)
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Roger, well done boat looks really good. Sbambi(salv)
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π Restored Fireboat
13 years ago by
π¬π§ sbambi (
Leading Seaman)
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Aerokit Fireboat 34"
Boat was given to me in poor condition approx 30 years ago, no running gear and most fittings missing or broken, originally powered with IC motor.
I have installed a 43A 700KV Outrunner Brushless motor, Model No : XYH42-50 and a Hobbywing Seaking 60W / Reverse Program Brushless ESC bought from Giantcod, powered by a 3 cell 2200 mAh Lipo battery runtime 15 to 18min, the prop is a 42.5mm 2 blade racing prop. I am well pleased with the performance of the boat.
I belong and sail at the Hartsholme Electric Model Boat Club, Lincoln.
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π¬ SbambI 34" Fireboat Renovation
13 years ago by
π¬π§ sbambi (
Leading Seaman)
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Thanks for the response, Balsabasher. it has taken me about one & a half years to complete working on the boat when I had some spare time.
Look forward to meeting you at Hartsholme Lake. I had a similar problem with the steering and found that the plastic rudder servo arm I fitted was slipping on the brass rudder shaft as I could not tighten the screw enough, I decided to replace the plastic rudder servo arm with one I made out of aluminium I also filled a flat on the rudder shaft and fitted a setscrew and lock-nut to the aluminium servo arm so that once the steering is setup I can lock the arm properly. Don't have any more problems now with steering.
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π SbambI 34" Fireboat Renovation
13 years ago by
π¬π§ sbambi (
Leading Seaman)
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Fireboat completed, only a few small Items to fit, Samson Post and scramble nets. Have carried out a series of trials at Hartsholme model boat club In Lincoln, first trials required weights In the rear of the boat and I had to move the Battery and ESC to the rear of the boat, due to the bow being heavy causing the boat to plough Into the water and not plane.
Once the ballast (approx 400g) and repositioning of battery (3 cell 2200 mAh) ESC to the rear of the boat was carried out the boat ran superbly.
I have fitted a 2 blade 40 mm Graupner prop which gave me good speed and run time of approximately 18 minutes.
Really pleased with boat performance. Will add video of boat In action once I have edited the movie.
Thanks to this website I have a superb model boat
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π¬ Installation of Motor and ESC
13 years ago by
π¬π§ sbambi (
Leading Seaman)
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Thanks for the responce, I am looking forward to testing the Fireboat within the next couple of weeks and am interested to see how the motor performs. Will let you know.
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π¬ Installation of Motor and ESC
13 years ago by
π¬π§ sbambi (
Leading Seaman)
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Thanks, will let you know how the motor goes. Not far from completing the fireboat, hopefully a couple of weeks.
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π¬ Installation of Motor and ESC
13 years ago by
π¬π§ sbambi (
Leading Seaman)
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Thanks, will let you know how the motor goes. Not far from completing the fireboat, hopefully a couple of weeks.
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π Installation of Motor and ESC
13 years ago by
π¬π§ sbambi (
Leading Seaman)
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π Update on fireboat restoration
13 years ago by
π¬π§ sbambi (
Leading Seaman)
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π¬ Priming hull
14 years ago by
π¬π§ sbambi (
Leading Seaman)
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HI Graham, the type of primer I am using is normal aerosol can, grey primer I bought from Halfords, I also use, Spray Filler primer (Yellow/orangie colour) also bought from Halfords which is much thicker and covers better than normal grey primer. I always start with a couple of light coats of grey primer and leave the paint to dry well, at least 2 or 3 days before I sand the hull again (With wet and dry 900 to 1000 grit), end up sanding off most of the excess paint when sanding to get that good smooth flat finish. After rubbing down all the Imperfections show up, if it's to bad I then give the hull a coat of the sanding filler primer perfect for filling any sunken areas that need building up, again allow a couple of days to dry and harden then rub down again. I am now at the stage of filling minor Imperfections with kniffing putty which is basically filler, allow that to dry well then rub down, That's where I'm at presently. The sander I used is a cheap detailed sander (AΒ£15) I bought from B&Q with a diamond shaped head, I found it perfect for getting at difficult areas of the hull. inside the hull was a lot more difficult 90% was sanded by hand. Hope this helps, Graham. Gladly help if I can. Salv
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π¬ Priming hull
14 years ago by
π¬π§ sbambi (
Leading Seaman)
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Dave thanks for the information regarding the Lipo batteries. I have read articles regarding balancer units etc, it's all new to me so am trying to research and understand these modern batteries and chargers. I will ensure that I purchase a good type battery charger. Thanks for the info dave.
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π¬ Repairing fireboat and sanding down.
14 years ago by
π¬π§ sbambi (
Leading Seaman)
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Mike, it took me ages to get the old paint off. it had been brush painted very thickly and had severe paint runs all over the hull. I started with a, Stanley knife blade and scrapped off what I could. Then used a small detail sander which saved me a lot of elbow grease (worked really well) then I just used sanding paper and a block of wood to get the paint off where the detailed sander could not reach, really difficult inside the Hull. This took me quite some time until I reached a finish I was happy with. I didn't use any chemicals as I was worried that it may affect the glued joints and balsa wood. All that work (never thought it would end) has paid off now so I'm happy I spent the time to get the Hull rubbed down the way I did.
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π¬ Priming hull
14 years ago by
π¬π§ sbambi (
Leading Seaman)
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HI Dave thanks for the reply, The prop tube was well worn and because there was no prop tube support the tube was badly bent, no choice but to replace. it took some getting out and a lot of patience but in the end it came out quite well with no damage to hull or structure. Regarding motor/power set up I'm thinking of fitting electric brushless outboard motor with, Lipo battery. I was at the funday and had a good look at the fireboats (Some really nice boats there and performed well on the water)got some great tips and advice from the other guys, really good day out. I don't know what make motor or ESC to get yet, could do with some advice. As you said next pahse is to install all the power set up ect before I finish the paint job. But have to decide on size and type of motor. Salv (nick name is Salv)
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π Priming hull
14 years ago by
π¬π§ sbambi (
Leading Seaman)
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π Repairing fireboat and sanding down.
14 years ago by
π¬π§ sbambi (
Leading Seaman)
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π 34" Fireboat renovation
14 years ago by
π¬π§ sbambi (
Leading Seaman)
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π¬ 32" RAF Fire Tender being restored by Salv Bambino
15 years ago by
π¬π§ sbambi (
Leading Seaman)
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Dave, I have removed the prop shaft because it was bent and the resin around the prop tube/hull was cracked it was also worn quite badly. I need to purchase a new tube and prop shaft once I decide what motor to fit, I can then decide on the length of prop shaft. Thanks for the info.
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π 32" RAF Fire Tender being restored by Salv Bambino
15 years ago by
π¬π§ sbambi (
Leading Seaman)
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HI all. This is an, RAF Fire Tender 32" that was given to me 30+ years ago by a friend who was going to scrap it. it's been stored in my garage loft all this time. I am about to start the restoration of the boat but havn't done any modelling since I was a youngster.
It has no running gear but was originally powered by a nitro engine, I am hoping to convert it to electric power, the problem is I have no idea what type of motor to use or what length prop tube or prop sahft is required, I don't have any drawings or information about the boat. I am presently cleaning and rubbing the panels down so that I can re glue most of the joints as thay are mostly starting to come loose.
Will post some more photos as I progress.
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