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    Pilot Boat
    by MouldBuilder πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ ( Midshipman)
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    9 Posts 26 Comments 65 Photos 26 Likes
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    πŸ“ Conclusion.
    3 months ago by MouldBuilder ( Midshipman)
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    I must say that I have really enjoyed building the Aeronaut Pilot Boat. The kit is well detailed and has a certain level of difficulty that suits me at the moment. This is the first project I have completed in 35 years. Boat projects that is.
    During the build I did encounter a few problems which, in my opinion, could be put right by Aeronaut. The first was the fitting of the skins. The laser cut parts had no extra material to aid fitting. They were difficult enough to fit but with no margin for error at all, I was losing the will to live. I had failure after failure and considering each attempt had to be temporarily set in position with tape, days and days went by. Finally, I managed to get them into the best position I could and stuck them down. I think I managed 95% good with about 5% I had to deal with later on. Most of any error is covered by the rubbing strake.😐
    Another problem is the connections for the two rudders. Fortunately, I noticed the issue early on so devised a repair before a problem was encountered. The instructions, and the parts themselves, were fitted with the screws facing towards the transom. Once the deck was glued into place the screws could not be reached. I redesigned the actuating mechanism so that the screws were facing forwards. They are still difficult to get at, but with a long Allen key it is possible.
    Getting all of the electrics working as I wanted was also a challenge. I could not find a way to programme three switches to operate on three channels. There is a way, so I understand, by using mixes on the transmitter. I looked everywhere for information on this site and others. I found nothing except everybody was saying that the ER9X firmware was the way forward. There was no way to update the Turnigy Tx I have so I found the perfect solution in the Turnigy 9X Pro transmitter with a frsky module. For Β£90 this is some piece of kit. I have programmed the three switches with ease and everything works well.
    One issue I have had and really would like some help with for future projects, is the connection of all of the wires from the removable cabin. I have used some rather large nine pin connectors and eight strand alarm cable. These can be seen in an earlier post. Does anybody know of where I can get much smaller multi pin connectors? For my next project, the Robbe/Krick Dusseldorf, I am considering nine pin DIN sockets.
    That concludes this build. I think a name might look nice on the side of the hull to break up the full colour. I will see what I can find. I would recommend this kit to those with a little experience. I think it is a little complex for a first build but who knows.
    Thanks for reading the blog and a special thanks to all of those who have offered valuable help at every stage, so until the next one, Happy Building.
    Peter.😊

    kit
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    Turnigy 9X Pro
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Conclusion.
    3 months ago by Martin555 ( Commander)
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    Hi Peter,
    I am glad that you enjoyed your build, it is A very fine model well done.
    You mentioned about being able to connect the wires from a removable superstructure. We'll have you considered the use of PCB Headers?
    You can get them with a variation of pins and sockets that if required you can cut them down to suit your requirements.(see photos)
    I have used these in the past and I used them on the mezzanine deck of HMS Cottesmore which is removable.
    I hope this helps.
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Conclusion.
    3 months ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Hi Peter,
    "This was good as well but it would be nice if the blue flashing light was a little brighter."
    Are you using the same flashing circuit as in your Police Boat?
    If so, reduce the resistor on the output pin of the 555 (pin 3) to 180 or 150Ohms.
    Cheers, Doug 😎

    Police Boat
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Conclusion.
    3 months ago by MouldBuilder ( Midshipman)
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    I Agree Doug.
    I have the circuit for the Police boat here with me so I will take your advice and try it out on this one and then change the Pilot Boat circuit on my next visit to Hungary in August.
    Just a little note. When I retire to Hungary, boat building will continue. During my last visit a few weeks ago, I laid down a 3.2 Metre square pad of concrete ready for the new ship yard😊
    I have already bought the Vintage Model Works 46" Crash Tender kit. I will wait until I live there to start that one as I do not think it would travel well partly built. I am waiting for Mike to finish his model as well so that I can use his blog as the build instructions.πŸ˜‰

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    πŸ’¬ Re: Conclusion.
    3 months ago by MouldBuilder ( Midshipman)
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    Hi Doug.
    I checked the resistor from pin 3 to negative and it is 180 ohms. For blue at 3.2 - 3.8 volts at around 25mA I would normally use 120 ohms. Shall I try that?
    Thanks.😊
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Conclusion.
    3 months ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Hi Peter,
    Neutral??
    In a DC circuit there ain't no neutral.
    I can only assume that the 180Ω is from Pin 3 to the load.
    In which case go for the 120Ω.
    If I recall correctly you are using a CMOS 555 IC.
    In which case it will switch the full supply voltage to the output (pin 3).
    I am assuming the supply voltage is 6V?
    If that is correct and the Vf of the blue LED is ~3.5V, and current is 25mA, then you can safely go down to 100Ω or perhaps even 82Ω.
    R=V/I = 6-3.5/(25/1000) =2.5*1000/25 =100Ω. QEDπŸ˜‰

    BUT!!! IF the IC is the bipolar NE type it will only switch Vsupply - 1.7 to the output (pin 3).
    And IF supply is 6V then Vout = 4.3V.
    R=(4.3-3.5)/(25/1000) = (0.8*1000)/25 = 800/25 =32Ω.
    Cheers, Doug 😎
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    πŸ“ Shipping and first trial.
    4 months ago by MouldBuilder ( Midshipman)
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    I decided that I would send the hull via UPS in a secured box with other items. I packed the superstructure in the second box made earlier and took this as hand luggage with me to Budapest. This proved to be almost totally successful except for some minor damage to deck hand rails on the hull which was not totally unexpected. A minor repair is required but will wait until my return in the Summer.😐 I have attached a couple of pictures of the large box taken as I was unpacking it.
    I spent a couple of days doing final adjustments, fitting the props and fine tuning the transmitter set up. Then came the time to trial. Just as I was about to set off to the river. the wind picked up and the water surface became unsuitable for a trial especially as the recovery boat was unavailable. I decided to delay until the next day.
    The conditions the following day were perfect. I fitted the 2s 3300 Lipo and turned on the power. Next was to place the boat in the river and pray.
    The test went perfectly and I was very pleased. I have noted that the bow seems a little low in the water when not under power. Strange as all of the operating systems are towards the stern. Under power, this improves greatly and when on full power it looks perfect. I think I might moved the battery towards the stern slightly to see if there is an improvement.
    Later in the day, I had a second trial to check the effectiveness of the lighting. This was good as well but it would be nice if the blue flashing light was a little brighter.
    My last post on this series will follow soon with my thoughts on the model and the problems which have been encountered.
    I have taken a short video of both trials which I will upload soon.
    IMG 0901
    ▢️

    transmitter
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    operating systems
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Shipping and first trial.
    4 months ago by Martin555 ( Commander)
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    Hi,
    Nice video.
    That looks like a lovely placed to float model boats.
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Shipping and first trial.
    4 months ago by MouldBuilder ( Midshipman)
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    Yes. Thanks Martin. I am very lucky. My wife is Hungarian and my β€œpond” is the Danube, a wildlife reserve running parallel, which in calm weather is perfect. The river is at the bottom of our garden. We will retire here in a few years time.
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Shipping and first trial.
    4 months ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
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    "We will retire here in a few years time."
    Stay in touch when you do Pete πŸ‘
    I hope the Brexit chaos doesn't cause you any problems, like it's beginning to do here in Germany. Apparently if Britain does crash out of the EU I will need to be 'Retitled' in my resident permit, as the authorities here put it in a recent letter!!

    All the best, Doug 😎
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Shipping and first trial.
    4 months ago by MouldBuilder ( Midshipman)
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    I am a little worried Doug but I think that common sense will prevail. I hope so anyway but there are a few hell bent on self destruction. I think that my marriage will help. I also have a residency permit here just in case that helps also. I also own property so I have tried everything to make for a smooth passage. We will see.πŸ™€
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Shipping and first trial.
    4 months ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
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    I hope 'common' sense still is in Hungary!
    Cos it sure doesn't seem to be in GB right nowπŸ€”
    Ciao for now. Doug 😎
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    πŸ“ Almost there.
    5 months ago by MouldBuilder ( Midshipman)
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    The Pilot boat is nearly finished. I have been fitting the seats and deck railings. I am reasonably happy with it but I have a lot to learn, some of which will be in my conclusion in the final post.
    My sailing river is in Hungary so I have spent part of this weekend making the shipping boxes. I have decided on a very simple screw face to edge design as there is not a lot of weight to send. The box is heavier than the model. I have used 12mm ply wood for the construction. My local B&Q cut the board to the sizes I supplied to them. A very useful service as it takes a long time to set up my circular saw as it has no table. It only took 15 minutes to cut out the twelve pieces. i then just added the fixing holes and countersunk them to make the screws sub-flush. They look suitable for purpose.
    I have sorted the problem with the lack of usable switches on my Turnigy 9x. As I needed another radio to take with me, I bought a Turnigy 9xr Pro. This one has the latest er9x software which is much more user friendly, I am told.πŸ˜‰
    I will upload a video of the trials over the next few weeks. Almost time to decide which of the three new and rebuild projects to tackle next. The Patrol Torpedo Boat upgrade, the Dusseldorf Fire Fighting Boat or the 46" Crash Tender.

    er9x software
    Turnigy 9xr Pro
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    πŸ“ Nearly there.
    5 months ago by MouldBuilder ( Midshipman)
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    I have had a good run lately being able to spend a whole day per week on the Pilot Boat. The wiring and both of the circuit boards are now completed and working. I have experienced a small problem though. I have a Turnigy 9x transmitter with eight usable channels but however I configure it, I can only get two of the seven switches connected to channels. I have seen on youtube that by using mixes, more switches can be programmed. So far I have not found out how. There is lots of information for the er9x update but not the standard 9x. For now I will connect two channels to one Tx switch.
    I have now been busy fitting the deck out. I should complete this tomorrow after which all that remains is to finish painting the cabin seats and tables and fit them. I hope to have it on the river in three weeks time. I will place the final build update before I go. I will probable leave the deck handrails off until it has been transported. Until then, if anyone can help with the mixes problem on my 9x, it would be very much appreciated.πŸ˜‰

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    πŸ“ Electrics in the cabin
    6 months ago by MouldBuilder ( Midshipman)
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    Progress on the main build is slowed at the moment so that I can complete the electrical installation. I have decided to route all of the wires inside of the original outer sleeve. I have removed the wires and replaced only the ones I need. I have stuck them to the inside walls as I do not like them hanging everywhere. Perhaps they look a little like insulated pipes, at least that is what I tell myself.
    I have terminated all of the wires into two 9 pin connectors. These will then connect directly into a small ABS enclosure where I have a flasher circuit and a pcb with all of the resistors for the LED`s. I have wired in this manner so that all I need to do to completely remove the cabin is to disconnect the two connectors.All of the remaining circuits can remain in the hull. A little more work is required in the hull to fit and wire the switches to operate the equipment from other switches on the transmitter.😊

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    πŸ“ Painting
    6 months ago by MouldBuilder ( Midshipman)
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    I must admit that the painting process is not my favourite. it takes so long and time is always at a premium due to work commitments. I rush it a bit so that the build can continue.
    I fitted all of the windows into the deck structure and covered them with the low tack film. I then primed, two coats, painted, two coats followed by two coats of lacquer. I am quite pleased with the results even though it is not perfect.
    I decided not to fit the deck until all of the electronics, including the ESC, battery and receiver had been installed. This is because one of the big problems with this model is the lack of room to work in once the deck is in place. Another problem I encountered was the fitting of the tiller cranks onto the rudders. if the instructions are followed, it is almost impossible the adjust or remove them once the deck has been fitted. I solved the problem by reversing the cranks and bending the connecting wire to miss a bulkhead support. The screws can now be reached from the deck opening.
    I have now completed the majority of the painting and have started to assemble the remaining parts. Currently I am doing the wiring of the lighting and making a couple of circuit boards. There are a lot of wires involved so to reduce the amount I have decided to us e a common negative. (Cannot remember what this is called right now). There are still a lot of wires and they are mostly coming out from the cabin structure. I have decided to introduce some nine pin connectors to make cabin removal a lot easier. This is quite a big job and will take a little while. I really enjoy this bit. The results add that little bit of extra satisfaction when it all works as it should.πŸ€“
    The top search light assembly came as a bit of a surprise. it is manufactured from nickel silver plate and requires soldering together. Even though I am a precision engineer, I have not soldered a box since I was at school. Once I stopped burning my fingers with the heat, I quite enjoyed the assembly even though it would have been useful to have an extra hand and took the best part of today to complete.😀
    I can honestly say that I have enjoyed most of this build and even though earlier on I was thinking to avoid Aero-naut models in the future, I have changed my mind. They are very cleverly designed.
    I expect to complete this model some time in March. That would be the first for me to complete in recent times even though I have two others on the go and one new one in its box ready for a Summer start.😊

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    πŸ’¬ Painting
    6 months ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Looking good Peter, well done. πŸ‘πŸ‘πŸ‘

    paint
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    πŸ’¬ Painting
    6 months ago by MouldBuilder ( Midshipman)
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    Thanks Doug.
    Do you have any idea as to why white spray paint is much more difficult to get good coverage with than most other colours.πŸ€“

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    πŸ’¬ Re: Painting
    5 months ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Hi Peter, sorry for late answer, been a bit distracted latelyπŸ€”

    I guess it's to due with the pigment used and the fact that being white it doesn't filter out any of the colour wavelengths of light, as coloured paints do.
    I always use a white primer and/or undercoat.
    As I did in the white cabin of my Sea Scout, and recently also the hull of the fish cutter I'm renovating and converting.
    I see that you are using generous dollops of 'the secret ingredient' in your paintingπŸ‘
    Nice work, you must have quite a fleet by now!
    Cheers Doug 😎

    primer
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    πŸ“ Painting
    9 months ago by MouldBuilder ( Midshipman)
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    Well it is nearly Christmas again and time to go to my testing river in Hungary. This boat will not be ready but I hope to complete the Police Launch this trip.
    I have started the painting process on the Pilot Boat. Very early on I had a dilemma. When is the correct time to paint. As I generally use rattle cans and an airbrush, I think it best to paint prior to major assembly. I am still not sure if this is the correct approach but I am concerned with masking an assembled unit. I hope that the glue does not ruin the paint finish when I put it together.
    It is a bit difficult spray painting this time of the year due to the fumes. I spray in the garage with the door open but I am always concerned about air temperature. The finish looks good so perhaps this is not of great concern yet.πŸ€“
    I will now leave the hull to dry prior to applying the lacquer. I have completed the insides of the bridge and rear room and will start to assemble this part next prior to masking and painting the outside walls. I have bought a roll of special low tack clear film to protect the windows and frames. I hope this works. I have used the same film to cover the instrument panel which so far seems to be staying on well.
    I think that these models by AeroNaut are really well designed. it still amazes me that the model looks so natural even though it is made generally from flat thin sheets.πŸ˜‰
    I will attach the deck next and then start on the main structures.
    Happy Christmas to all.

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    πŸ“ Must get the skins on before I pull all of my hair out!!
    10 months ago by MouldBuilder ( Midshipman)
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    This build is proving to be much more difficult than I had expected. 😀 I think I started this project thinking that all of the parts were ready to fit and glue. As I went on, it became clear that this is not the case. Due to this, and as detailed in the earlier post, I have had to break down the glue joints of the hull frame, and reposition after deepening some of the assembly slots. I have re-assembled the bulkheads, stringers etc. and then started to fit the side skins. This has proven to be the most difficult task so far. You need six arms. After several failures, removal of all of the fixing tape and then starting again, they finally started to look reasonable. I watched a time lapse video on you tube and he seems to do it fairly easily. Oh well. πŸ€”
    Now that I was happy with the fit of the sides, it was time to start on the bottom skins. I started by trying to form chamfers along the keel centre joints so that they look reasonable. Then I once again applied tape to hold them in position whilst glueing with my other three hands, I wish. This only took two attempts. I must be getting better. I still have most of my hair also.
    Next, I tried to mount the motors onto the angled bulkhead. The front location was very loose so I made a couple of thin silver steel rings to improve the fit. They work very well. 😊
    Next job was to fit and align the prop shafts. I decided to make these solid joints and avoid the use of universal joints. The first motor went straight on with perfect shaft alignment. The second was not so good. After two hours of fiddling with a packer, I finally achieved perfect alignment.
    Next job was to give good joint strength and make the hull water tight. Rightly or wrongly I use a lot of glue to give that perfect seal. I used epoxy for all of the skin inner joints and Stabilit for the outer seams and joints. I used the Stabilit around the shafts as well which looks a little messy at the moment, but I will tidy all of this up next. I will paint the inner Stabilit with white paint to hide a little.
    This weekend I will do a water test to ensure it is water tight.😱
    I think after that I will fit all of the electrics, servo and speed controller. Then I will spray the hull and the main deck prior to fixing together. I would be interested to know what others think about when to paint, before or after assembly, especialy regarding the hull.
    Enough for now.🀐
    I will try to speed up the build a bit now as I am expecting the new 46" Crash Tender to arrive soon. Wood!!! Love it.😊

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    πŸ’¬ Must get the skins on before I pull all of my hair out!!
    10 months ago by MouldBuilder ( Midshipman)
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    Attempted the water test yesterday. Hummm. Plan B required.πŸ€”
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    πŸ’¬ Must get the skins on before I pull all of my hair out!!
    10 months ago by MouldBuilder ( Midshipman)
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    Plan B was much more successful. The better half was going to town and brought back a very useful testing pond, or a storage box for those observant members.😊
    All was good. 😲

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    πŸ’¬ Must get the skins on before I pull all of my hair out!!
    10 months ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
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    That's just one of the myriad reasons why they are 'the Better Half'! πŸ˜‰πŸ˜
    So far so goodπŸ‘
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    πŸ’¬ Must get the skins on before I pull all of my hair out!!
    10 months ago by MouldBuilder ( Midshipman)
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    Is there a correct angle, plus and minus of centre, that a rudder should move.
    If there is a norm, is this the same for twin rudders or is there a different set of rules.πŸ€“
    Thanks.😊

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    πŸ’¬ Must get the skins on before I pull all of my hair out!!
    10 months ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Hi Pete,
    as a general rule of thumb not more than around 40Β° either way.
    Otherwise they start to act as brakes, much like the air brakes on aircraft.
    'Water brakes'!?😲
    There are some other considerations and tricks, but start with that and see how it goes. Let us know πŸ˜‰
    Cheers, Doug😎

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    πŸ’¬ Must get the skins on before I pull all of my hair out!!
    10 months ago by MouldBuilder ( Midshipman)
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    Thanks Doug.
    Does this apply to twin rudders also. Thanks.😊

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    πŸ’¬ Must get the skins on before I pull all of my hair out!!
    10 months ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Hi Pete, Basically yes.
    There are some other tricks with twin screws, not least engine assistance using a twin ESC with rudder mixer.
    Also the screw rotation makes a slight difference, and the rudders are usually slightly offset from the shafts, depending on the screw rotation.
    Are yours turning outwards or inwards?
    Referred to the top of the screw looking from aft while going forward.
    Cheers, Doug

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    πŸ’¬ Must get the skins on before I pull all of my hair out!!
    10 months ago by MouldBuilder ( Midshipman)
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    I have bought one left and one right hand prop. I was intending to set them up so that they both rotated outwards.😊

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    πŸ’¬ Must get the skins on before I pull all of my hair out!!
    10 months ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
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    BTW Pete, the politically correct terminology for a 'testing pond' is
    'The Domestic Test and Trials Tank', Short form 'D3T' 😁😁
    Think I'll write to the appropriate NATO Working Group to have it added to the NATO acronym list! (Direction: Falls off chair in fit of gigglesπŸ˜‰)
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    πŸ’¬ Must get the skins on before I pull all of my hair out!!
    10 months ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
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    OK, props outward turning.
    I assume you've already fitted the rudders, correct me if I'm wrong.
    Cos if not you have some wiggle room how you fit the rudders (in or outboard of the shafts) which affects the rudder efficiency and can reduce the braking / dig-in effect a little.
    Let me know and I'll check my notes which way the offset should be.
    Can't hold everything in me bonce! As Einstein said-
    "The brain is for thinking, not for storing facts, but to know where to find the facts"!
    All the best, Doug 😎

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    πŸ’¬ Must get the skins on before I pull all of my hair out!!
    10 months ago by MouldBuilder ( Midshipman)
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    The rudder tubes are set in place as are the prop shafts.😱
    I have had a quick look and it appears that the shafts are very slightly closer to the keel than the rudders.πŸ€“

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    πŸ’¬ Must get the skins on before I pull all of my hair out!!
    10 months ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
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    OK. I see 'em inline with the shafts. OK, forget it 😭
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    πŸ“ Pilot Boat
    12 months ago by MouldBuilder ( Midshipman)
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    Winter approaches again so what better than a new project,.......to go along with the other two yet to be completed. I have excuses. Honest!!
    This new one is a bit different again. No wood at all this time. It is the Aero-naut Pilot Boat. I thought it didn`t look too much of a task but I think I will have to re-assess as it is tricky in parts.
    I have assembled the hull frame, which although the parts are rather loose fitting until glued went ok. I have, however, stumbled slightly on the next stage, to fit the hull skins.
    The instructions suggest to cellotape them in place prior to glueing. Not as easy as it sounds as considerable bending of the parts is required to get them to fit, too much for the tape. Does anybody know of an easier approach please. The ABS is extremely difficult to hold in position when trying to tape it, which incidently, does not hold anyway. Should I warm up the skins or will this distort them and give a rippled finish. Any help here would be appreciated.πŸ€“
    I will continue with the refurbishment of the Patrol Torpedo Boat for now as I have been trying to manipulate the sides of the Pilot boat into place for hours, no, days!!.😑😀

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    πŸ’¬ Pilot Boat
    12 months ago by figtree7nts ( Commodore)
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    Hi Mouldbuilder,

    Send a PM to Steve "Cormorant".
    He built a Pilot Boat a while ago!
    I'm sure he wouldn't mind.
    Sharing some pointers with you!

    Cheers, Ed

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