Hi Peter,
It definitely sounds like an error on the plans.
I hope you manage to sort the problem out and let us know how you achieved it.
Good luck.

Martin555.

Crandall Flyer. Just a couple of images of the ribs and you will be able to see where I got to. All cutouts agreed with the plans however I had to expand them a tad to get the boat apart at one stage. I will be rebuilding, possibly using balsa and not the waterproof ply.

The shears are actually supposed to join - did not work. My final image shows where the shears meet the ribs on one side. If i tried to force the join, the shear ended up at an angle instead of sitting flat.

I am no carpenter, but giving it a try.

Hi, with regard to the Flyer, I used plans purchased from http://www.john-tom.com/.
Great service and had them in 15 minutes and he has a lot of additional plans.

My issue was the deck shear which no matter how i contorted my body, i could not get it to fit properly into the inside of the ribs. Every time i got close, the whole boat twisted out of shape.

In the end, i did a fair bit of web browsing and found several others that had had the same problem, with each of them mentioning the same lot of plans. One person actually relocated the deck shears to make it work for him and ended up with a usable boat.

I still have the framework as far as i got with it. I intend to reduce it back to the individual components and start over, making some amendments to the fitout to see if i can make it work. Once I have finished my bootlegger. (Have to get back the dining table, if only for a short period.) I will post a photo of the framing later on today after i finish work.

Hope that makes sense.

http://www.john-tom.com/.

🔗

Hi Martin - a few comments on the Baby Bootlegger. Still moving forward on it and putting an electronic kit together at the moment. Motor (550) is in location but still to be secured, 2 x 5000maH batteries on order, all other electronic equipment to hand.

I could not get any of the mahogony timber locally, however was given veneer strips which i used. Big mistake as they are very stiff and did not give me the smooth finish i required. I am thinking of using around 6 or 7 coats of resin with a lot of sanding to reduce the ridges somewhat but a lesson learned. Would have been far better off using a second layer of balsa planking and then fibreglass.

I have attached a couple of images to show where it is at - next step is to clean up the edges for the cutouts, fix a ledge inside for the covers, cut some thin brass strips to cover the edges of the planked sections cut out. I then have to work on sizing a section of ribs to accommodate the batteries followed by a general clean up prior to sealing with resin or fibreglass.

All in all, it has been a learning experience - some errors, but worthwhile. I will transfer some images off my phone today and upload.

Hi Peter,
Do you have any updates for us to read ?

Martin555.

Hello
I'm just wondering what was said about the Hydroplane Flyer.
According to the Crandall original plan, some full-size and large RC models have already been built
What plan did you use?

According to the plans you are quite correct. The issue I had was the frames are only balsa and the plans called for the larger cutouts to be put in after the planking was done to the bottom and sides. If i had done it using ply i would certainly have done it prior.

I am still considering doing a couple once i have the top opened up but the way the batteries are planned they will be located just in front of the step. 2 x six cell packs. (I may even change that to lipo. The jury has still to come home on that one.)

Grate start Peter.
I am a little surprised to see you only cut holes in the frames instead of opening them up more so that you can move batteries, receivers etc around to help with the blasting.

Martin555.