Shed wooden Into workshop
Shed wooden Into workshop
...you seem to have put in a lot of planning and organising of parts...
No, not really. I was just sort of making it up as I went along. I wasn't sure where all the power tools would end up so I installed loads more 13A power outlets than necessary in order to have a socket within easy reach.
The double-glazed windows were relatively affordable - just ÂA£45.00 for the two large ones and ÂA£8.00 for the single one. I opted to have fixed windows, as opposed to the opening type, because a) it was cheaper, and b) to make it harder for would-be thieves to enter. The mirror film can be seen in the final photo, reflecting my next door neighbour's front door. The film itself was ÂA£30.00, but I wasn't confident about installing it myself. HS93 uses the same stuff and told me that you need to know what you're doing else you could easily end up with all sorts of wrinkles and crinkles. I'm not as clever as him so I paid a ÂA£30.00 for a local glazier to install it for me instead.
The usual hardboard-type pegboard is nigh Impossible to find around this area - all the local suppliers no longer stock the stuff. I ended Googling "Perforated toolboard" and eventually found this: http://www.workshopping.co.uk/product/steel-pegboard-pack-of-2/APSPB/ . I have absolutely no issues with the workshopping.co.uk people - their service is excellent. But I'm a tad disappointed with the product itself. The metal hooks which fit into the holes in the panels are somewhat floppy and sloppy. it's a bit annoying when you need to remove a tool from the board because the hook itself also comes away from the board. it would help if the hooks were made of larger gauge wire, to fit more snugly in the holes. Apart from that I'm half tempted to superglue the damn things in place.
The 18mm MDF panelling was on offer at just ÂA£16.00 for 8' x 4' sheets from B&Q and the benches and cabinets are just bog-standard cheapo kitchen units from Wickes. The only expensive items were the uPVC door and wireless alarm system.
It was minus four degrees centigrade here last week, but I must have done something right because the Superquilt insulation and glazed windows makes the place snug and warm to work in.
To answer your query regarding shelving, I simply used MDF off-cuts screwed to the wall panels to hold screwdrivers, battery chargers and what-not.
Hope this helps.
No, not really. I was just sort of making it up as I went along. I wasn't sure where all the power tools would end up so I installed loads more 13A power outlets than necessary in order to have a socket within easy reach.
The double-glazed windows were relatively affordable - just ÂA£45.00 for the two large ones and ÂA£8.00 for the single one. I opted to have fixed windows, as opposed to the opening type, because a) it was cheaper, and b) to make it harder for would-be thieves to enter. The mirror film can be seen in the final photo, reflecting my next door neighbour's front door. The film itself was ÂA£30.00, but I wasn't confident about installing it myself. HS93 uses the same stuff and told me that you need to know what you're doing else you could easily end up with all sorts of wrinkles and crinkles. I'm not as clever as him so I paid a ÂA£30.00 for a local glazier to install it for me instead.
The usual hardboard-type pegboard is nigh Impossible to find around this area - all the local suppliers no longer stock the stuff. I ended Googling "Perforated toolboard" and eventually found this: http://www.workshopping.co.uk/product/steel-pegboard-pack-of-2/APSPB/ . I have absolutely no issues with the workshopping.co.uk people - their service is excellent. But I'm a tad disappointed with the product itself. The metal hooks which fit into the holes in the panels are somewhat floppy and sloppy. it's a bit annoying when you need to remove a tool from the board because the hook itself also comes away from the board. it would help if the hooks were made of larger gauge wire, to fit more snugly in the holes. Apart from that I'm half tempted to superglue the damn things in place.
The 18mm MDF panelling was on offer at just ÂA£16.00 for 8' x 4' sheets from B&Q and the benches and cabinets are just bog-standard cheapo kitchen units from Wickes. The only expensive items were the uPVC door and wireless alarm system.
It was minus four degrees centigrade here last week, but I must have done something right because the Superquilt insulation and glazed windows makes the place snug and warm to work in.
To answer your query regarding shelving, I simply used MDF off-cuts screwed to the wall panels to hold screwdrivers, battery chargers and what-not.
Hope this helps.
Shed wooden Into workshop
PMK's workshop looks very organised, you seem to have put in a lot of planning and organising of parts drawer stacks, wall tool panels etc
do you mind saying where you managed to find the tool panels - I failed to find any even using Google search - perhaps I have not used the right description in my searches.
My effort is not so robust and is not so well insulated - I had not thought of the double glazed windows good idea but does of course cost more - the photos you showed were before the mirror film ??
Tall Paul (Retired 2011 and at home Camberley, Surrey).
do you mind saying where you managed to find the tool panels - I failed to find any even using Google search - perhaps I have not used the right description in my searches.
My effort is not so robust and is not so well insulated - I had not thought of the double glazed windows good idea but does of course cost more - the photos you showed were before the mirror film ??
Tall Paul (Retired 2011 and at home Camberley, Surrey).
Tall Paul.
Romsey, Hampshire.
Romsey, Hampshire.
Shed wooden Into workshop
http://www.screwfix.com/prods/68120/Building/Roofing-Insulation/Superquilt-1500-x-10000mm
Like Tall Paul, I too was cought up in all the confusion regarding how best to insulate my shed. I spent too long trawling the WWW searching for advice - all of which confused matters even more. Then HS93 recommened the Superquilt from Screwfix, and although a tad more expensive than other insulation materials, has proven to be excellent. it's dead easy to work with (you simply staple it to the ceiling and wall studs), and its thermal qualities are by far the best.
The cables for the power outlets were installed first, then the Superquilt stapled in place, followed by 18mm-thick MDF for the ceiling and wall panels. The original floor was covered with a cheapo layer of foil-backed 4mm polystrene from Wickes, then 3/4"-thick tanalized chipboard on top. The supplied cheap & nasty perspex windows were replaced with made-to-measure double-glazing units, and finally I installed a couple of air vents in order for the shed to breathe.
HS93 also recommened installing a thin film to the insides of each window (much like you see on office-type buildings). I opted for the mirror finish in order to keep would-be thieves from seeing inside, while at the same time still allowing plenty of daylight to shine through, and still able to see through from the inside.
Just one or two finishing touches and I'll be ready to make a start on my Hunstman.
Like Tall Paul, I too was cought up in all the confusion regarding how best to insulate my shed. I spent too long trawling the WWW searching for advice - all of which confused matters even more. Then HS93 recommened the Superquilt from Screwfix, and although a tad more expensive than other insulation materials, has proven to be excellent. it's dead easy to work with (you simply staple it to the ceiling and wall studs), and its thermal qualities are by far the best.
The cables for the power outlets were installed first, then the Superquilt stapled in place, followed by 18mm-thick MDF for the ceiling and wall panels. The original floor was covered with a cheapo layer of foil-backed 4mm polystrene from Wickes, then 3/4"-thick tanalized chipboard on top. The supplied cheap & nasty perspex windows were replaced with made-to-measure double-glazing units, and finally I installed a couple of air vents in order for the shed to breathe.
HS93 also recommened installing a thin film to the insides of each window (much like you see on office-type buildings). I opted for the mirror finish in order to keep would-be thieves from seeing inside, while at the same time still allowing plenty of daylight to shine through, and still able to see through from the inside.
Just one or two finishing touches and I'll be ready to make a start on my Hunstman.
Shed wooden Into workshop
this seem expensive at first but it is everthing you need in one roll if you use normal insulation you will loose 6 or 8" of each wall and ceiling this far out performs other ethouds and sorts all you moisture problems out in one go, and you dont itch when using it, the extra cost to make the walls 6" or 8" thick will be a lot more than a roll of this.
Peter
http://www.screwfix.com/prods/68120/Building/Roofing-Insulation/Superquilt-1500-x-10000mm
Peter
http://www.screwfix.com/prods/68120/Building/Roofing-Insulation/Superquilt-1500-x-10000mm
Shed wooden Into workshop
Loft insulation from B & Q. On offer at the moment, three rolls for just over a fiver. Rolled up tight but when wrapper taken off fluffs up to 6 inches thick, made from recycled plastic bottles, dust free. Done my workshop with it ,cool in summer and warm in winter.
Shed wooden Into workshop
HI folks,
I bet some of you have Insulated a wooden shed/workshop, there Is so much confusing Info about It seem It Is similar to the Info for roof Insulation:
1. FOAM _ causes damp traps
2. Polystryene sheets Inbetween the joists - can also trap water so needs water membrane on the Inside then put up standard hardboard.
3. Thermal Blocks - more expensive but some have the water vapour membrane; then put hardboard on top before fitting shelving.
Shelving - more decisions - use dexion/build own wooden ones.
Any Ideas help please ?
I bet some of you have Insulated a wooden shed/workshop, there Is so much confusing Info about It seem It Is similar to the Info for roof Insulation:
1. FOAM _ causes damp traps
2. Polystryene sheets Inbetween the joists - can also trap water so needs water membrane on the Inside then put up standard hardboard.
3. Thermal Blocks - more expensive but some have the water vapour membrane; then put hardboard on top before fitting shelving.
Shelving - more decisions - use dexion/build own wooden ones.
Any Ideas help please ?
Tall Paul.
Romsey, Hampshire.
Romsey, Hampshire.
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