Hi Dave, you got my interest alright! 😉
Have decided to buy a 250ml 'sampler' for starters.
Thanks for the short shelf life tip 👍👍
I have a dead bumble bee 🤔 I found in the bedroom. Alas no flowers for him!
DHL just told me my Glue 'N Glaze an' stuff should arrive tomorrow😊
Time to go now - bowling training evening! League starts again in 4 weeks.
Cheers Doug 😎

Hi Doug
I was keen to get your interest and yes its not cheap. Can buy in 1Ltr cans locally. if you have a local scale model group they may let you have 20cc for your portholes. Problem is you add hardner as a percent about 2% so measuring and mixing is difficult. I usually find a dead fly and encapsulate it in the spare mix. if you can get a spider they send the female of the species quite frantic especially as they don't squash under foot.
The real problem is the relatively short shelf life once opened.
Have fun
Dave

Hi Dave, I'd sussed that when you mentioned 'casting' 👍
Just found some at Conrad 'round the corner' in Munich 😊
"Certainly Sir, how many gallons do you need?" !!
Not exactly cheap is it!?
Saw some applications on Dioramas, neat 👍
Cheers Doug 😎

Hi Doug
It's not ordinary resin, but crystal clear casting resin, wot they use to encapsulate bugs etc. Also used by modellers to represent lakes and rivers etc.
It is very runny and thin. Best part is its UV safe so won't discolour in the sun - if you are lucky enough to have any!
Cheers
Dave

Hi Dave, Vielen Dank 👍
I suspected as much with the water jet, but then you had many many more to do than I have.
I also tried the filling with resin, evidently the wrong sort as I could never get them completely bubble free 😡 Good tip with the syringe.👍 Your resin was obviously thinner than mine was.
I don't trust cyano near water either, despite the fact that some are now advertised as 'waterproof', resistant maybee!
With the acetate I was thinking of cheating and using strips! 😉
Cheers Doug 😎

Hi Doug
I used a trader (Steve Tranter- Model Boat Bits) to get the waterjet cutting done. The machine needs programming and I provided a spread sheet with the dimensions and they produced the file and did the cutting. As we were building two large models this was the only way we could get the project finished on time.
I have been experimenting with crystal clear resin to produce portholes for a Confiance Class tug I am building. I made portholes out of brass on the lathe then filled the centre with the clear casting resin. I had bubbles in the initial attempt but by using a syringe and flicking the tube the bubbles all go to the top of the syringe and the result is to my liking. I do paint the portholes first. When dry I just glue in the fibreglass hull with epoxy. Mine are near the waterline and whilst cyano would work I don't trust it when wet as experienced with the Olympic.

You could drill and fill your portholes with this, just need to place a blanking plate behind each porthole til the clear casting resin sets. I suspect this would be quicker than using acetate. incidentally I used to cut my acetate portholes with a heated brass tube. I used a piece of stainless rod inside the tube to push the portholes out.

Cheers
Dave

Mornin' Dave, many thanks for the Titanic info. Some good tips 👍
Haven't decided yet whether to make brass T section frames or flat wooden ones!
Daft thing with my destroyer is that the portholes were fitted in the original balsa hull. Later I covered it in glass fibre for extra knock resistance so would have to do it all over again😡 The portholes were ~5mm diameter brass into which I had to glue tiny plastic discs. How to go bonkers in stages 🤔
However, I now have a Fleetscale H class hull which has moulded in plating and portholes so I only need to drill them out and fit glazing from within 😊 The old ones I will save for the new superstructure.
Lighting will be general for some compartments not individual.
The old original ship I think I will leave 'as is' as a momento of my standard of 50 years ago😉
Cheers Doug 😎
PS Water jet cutting is beyond my means but I have been toying with the idea of buying a stencil cutter. The better ones cope with up to 1mm or so.
Should be enough for glazing sheet!

In case anyone is wondering 18/8 means 18% chrome and 8% nickel in the alloy. 18/10 is even better for rust resistance. Check your table cutlery 😉
Cheers Doug 😎

Hi Glyn
The frames you have should be fine. I mentioned painting as it is best done before the windows are fitted.
Dave

Hi Glynn, if you are sure it is stainless then no problem! Test a scrap piece by sticking it in water overnight, see if a thin rust film develops!
Even then there is stainless and 'stainless'. if you are sure it is 18/8 then OK.
If you bought the frames made up I would suspect they are light casting alloy which may well corrode and look 'orrible. 😡
Cheers Doug 😎

Shucks Dave W! 🤔 What happened to the the Aerobic boat!!??
I was so looking forward to the videos 😉
Cheers Doug 😎

Hi,
Rolfman just google acetate sheet, and take your pick. Loads of of it out there. I use it for aircraft cockpit screens, 99% of which are curved.

I have ordered some glue and glaze so will try it soon as.
One thing I noticed from your posts is you mention painting the frames. I had no intention of doing that, I was going to leave them untouched, silver( I guess it's stainless) is this a no no.

Hope you don't mind me butting in on this thread, but I'm trying to find out what kind of glazing is used for the wrap around screen on the Huntsman 34" + 44" boats from Precedent, and where I might purchase some from ?
Hoping someone will be able to help me with this.
Kindest wishes to all, Dave W 😊

Hi Doug
The Olympic and Titanic used 5mm and 3mm LEDs in the portholes - all illuminated. The cabins were glazed with overhead projector film, printed with the frame details then individually cut and stuck into each aperture. We had the cabin windows water jet cut so the were all the same size. I used Canopy Glue and the frames had all been acrylic spray painted. All were a close fit and stuck easily.
I can appreciate your difficulty with the destroyer, I cheated with my HMS Grenville (1:96), and just cut small holes in the plating and added a dab of black paint to represent.
Using the method I described with the frame on the face of the cabin leaves an aperture to glue the window into. A bead of glue will keep the window in place once dry. I find it dries quite clear and rubbery so with sufficient flat surfaces it works very well.
Glue'nGlaze is tried and tested if you can get hold of some
Dave

Hi Gyn, Canopy Glue may not cut the mustard with metal frames. it's only specified for wood, plastics and painted or varnished surfaces.
Glue 'n Glaze is also specified for metal.
"Glue 'n' Glaze
Model AD55
50ml
For making crystal clear windows and bonding canopies and most plastics
Bonds wood, plastic, metal, painted surfaces. For glazing windows up to 6mm. Use with micro-tips."

Don't stick your fingers to the ship😡
Cheers Doug 😎
PS For my little tasks have just ordered Glue 'n Glaze from Krick, the German distributor for Deluxe Materials! So let's see how we go😉
To be continued - Tune in next week, same time, same channel, when 'Once again it's time to play .........'🤔

Hi Dave, I don't propose to glue to paint! That's a lesson we learn as children with plastic kits 😉 I clean both sides first. Fitting portholes from inside the destroyer hull would have been impossible. There's also many more of 'em than on your average Fireboat or similar🤔 Patience is, or becomes, a virtue!
Doug 😎
PS I know you had quite a few in your Titanic, but bigger than the 1/4" portholes in my destroyer. Did you do them individually or in strips?

I've got canopy glue, but sure if it stick metal( the frames ) to the plastic hull and the windows. I'll try it. Thanks for tips so far.

Plenty of room if you make some tools to hold in place. if you glue to paint it makes a weak joint and will pop out when you try to fit the perspex.
I do believe Glyn has already tried that without success.
Glue 'n Glaze makes the process much easier.
Dave

Hi Dave, I can do it that way on the Sea Scout but not so easy from inside with Glyn's ship and lots of small windows in a cramped superstructure. 🤔
In his case I would paint the ship then paint the frames separately, glue in the 'glass', then glue the whole assembly into the ship. Like I did with the portholes on HMS Hotspur. Unfortunately Glue 'n Glaze & Co didn't exist then so some ended up 'steamed up' 🤔
Doug 😎

Glue (epoxy, Cyano or MEK) the frames to the outside before you paint. This will leave a lip all round the inside of the window aperture. Paint, then apply the windows from the inside using canopy glue.
Cheers
Dave

Yep! it's also from Deluxe Materials 👍

Glue 'n Glaze Glyn. No one will see the mistakes. No matter how much it seeps out from the frame it becomes transparent.

Ah knowed dere was summat like dat! Thanks Wayne 👍

Here you go👍

Hmm, that will be canopy glue, I've got some somewhere I'll dig it out & post a pic
Cheers
Wayne

Hi Glyn, I am about to be faced with exactly the same problem with my Sea Scout renovation! After some cogitating (not painful if you do it slowly in an armchair with a decent single malt😉) I propose to make T section frames to fit the openings. Then glue the window into the frame and glue into the boat from the outside. There is a sort of super glue (Glue & Glaze?) that apparently does not show up white on the plastic window!
Let us know how you get on.👍
Cheers Doug 😎