Well, I don't know how the original tiller could look like it did on deck, but it don't work on the model! I've made a tiller and when it's put on top of the rudder shaft it pokes skywards like Patrick Moore's telescope!
I shall incorporate the universal joint and then use the tiller with a block under it with cords going below to the snakes from the servo. Just waiting for the Universal to arrive from ebay now.

Martin

Onetenor, you are very kind to describe your solution, but without a diagram I have no idea what you mean. I've only used a rudder only 575 yacht before, so all this is new to me.
I'm thinking it will have to be something attached to the outside proper tiller. Unless I can squeeze in the universal joint and a bearing to hold it steady.
I can only really do anything at the weekend, which is why it has taken a long time.

Cheers,
Martin

Bring it out like the old auto steering geared quadrant with the pulley combined with or connected to a spur gear engaged with the teeth on the quadrant.Two small swiveling/self aligning pulleys under the deck to allow both sides of the wires/cords to emerge through fairleads and take 2 turns round the pulley.Make sure the pulleys have deep grooves and close fitting shields or even totally enclosed to avoid the cord jumping off. The problem is keeping the gears engaged at the sharp angles involved.Perhaps some sort of flap hinge can be incorporated to allow the required movement

looking at the angles there martin i think you may be better of with the external rudder control if space is that limited.
cheers
Ron

If you look at the avatar, you'll see how steep the stern post is. in fact it's a little different, but not much so I have only a tiny amount of space in the stern.

Cheers,
Martin

Ron, there is nowhere near enough space for that and also the twisted arms would still move through a strange path. I have snakes, but they don't seem to work as well as the man suggested. So, I've ordered a universal joint in steel which fits a 4mm shaft. I will take a short bit of 4mm out of the top on which will be the arm I've made, but that will need a bearing (just thought of that as I typed) otherwise it will flop about all over the place. Damn! More space I haven't got. Looks like the pulley idea might be the only way of working it, but getting access to those pulleys would be very awkward. I have very little space back there. We're in the lazarette and that was bend double territory on the real boat. The only other way would be to actuate the tiller on deck, once again with pulleys. I'm making the tiller currently. I may have to look into a deck operated system, with the line coming out of the middle of the deck and then via a pulley on either bulwark.

Cheers,
Martin

Cables and pulley(s) would likely be the way to go as per some full size systems. The cables running from servo arms out to Port and Starboard and running over pulleys then down to stern and over two more pulleys under the gunwales then to rudder arms. Using more pulleys as required. The servo arms being set fore and aft and swivel pulleys to change direction. I can't draw it on here but it is quite logical to follow. Good luck👍

It sounds like cable is your only option Martin, the angle on the mascotte has a steepish angle but all I did was purchase a plastic tiller arm and stick it in boiling water to soften it up so I could twist the arms to make them parallel once fitted but if yours is that steep I don't think this would work on yours.