Aha, the old 6d and 1/- shilling takes me back to my first model making days with Keilcraft balsa kits such as the Mermaid, in those days l could buy a kit with two weeks paperboy wages!

Thanks for the memory and about the packs of Balsa....
Richard

On E Bay/Amazon etc you can find "Hobby Packs" or "Balsa Bundles" These contain Block and sheet balsa in random sizes about 8/10 inches long; velly cheep and really handy. Many is ?are the models I made using them and a tube of cement.Used to be two prices 6p&1/-. Aaaaah those were the days. Thinking about it I think SLEC, BALSA CABIN and the like do them. Can't be selective about densities though.👍

Thank you Colin, l plan to take a drive out to the Orpington branch of Hobby Craft on Sunday.....👍

No sir, it’s Sharps “Doom Bar”, “Sea Fury” or “Harvys” best bitter.....plus the occasional guest beer.....

and if I was local I'd drink it😋😋
Got Brakspear in your neck o the woods!?😁

Balsa block or thick balsa is available in hobby raft and most modelling shops.
Cheers Colin.

Thanks Doug, You are a mine of information which this retired fella sure appreciates, if you were local l would buy you a pint!
Cheers sir

Evenin' Richard,
don't know if you can buy 'blocks' as such. I bought a 20mm thick by 10cm by 100cm plank. Useful for all sorts of stuff. From Krick here in Germany, sure you can get similar from Cornwall Model Boats or SLEC etc.
Cheers, Doug 😎

Oooops my reply to your emails should read "Blocks" of balsa...😊
Richard

Hey guys, I cannot thank you all enough for all these suggestions and advice, what a great website this is!!! I am swaying to purchase some blacks of balsa and give this a try, I did the same with my first model of the Billing Boat Norden (much smaller model) but on that occasion the stern block came with the kit. Does anyone have a website that I can purchase these blacks of balsa? I will try my local Hobbycraft store but they are sadly winding down on a lot of items. it is my intention to paint the St Canute the same colours as Billing Boats suggest, so none of the planks will be varnished but I will have a lot of sanding and shaping to do.

Many thanks again to you all,👍

Kindest regards Richard

Hello Richard
As already mentioned it all depends on the finish required but if like most the hull is to be painted then the importance of having each and every plank trimmed exactly to fit is less important. Some years ago I spent many hours frustrated by my inability to complete a hull as it should have been then after what could only be described as a "bodge" ended up with one of the best looking boats I have built.
The purists would shudder and disagree but after all 'life is too short'.
This pastime is for enjoyment👍
Regards ChrisG

Hi Martin, some nice tips there but really I was only pulling your chain about a small typo! 😁 "to get a decant paint finish". Sorry 🤔😭
I too have a small compressor (without reservoir) for major overhauls, hulls etc and a bigger 'Master Class' job with reservoir etc etc for more exacting jobs. Sometimes when I'm just too lazy to fire 'em up I resort to rattle cans, but ONLY WHEN the job doesn't require any detail working 😉 Cheers, Doug 😎

Doug,
I don't decant my paint because you have to wait to de-gas it which I ain't got the patience to do. What made you think I did?

I used the Rustoleum straight from the rattle can, but it's very thin and you have to watch its tendency to run.

The rest is enamel (HRG) bought from the auto paint suppliers and I mix that with a little white spirit and it takes maybe three hours to dry which is fine. Either airbrush (Paasche Model H) or a small spray gun called a spotting or dent gun. Little compressor for the Paasche Model H and bigger one for the spotting gun.

Cheers,
Martin

Exactamente Oh Grand Master 😁, thanks for the corroboration Martin 👍
BTW: Why/how do you decant your paint?
I only do that with a very old Port wine! He he 😁😁

I agree with Doug. But the ezepoxy and glass cloth s necessary for strength. I have made the top cowling of my Darby stepped hydro of balsa to save top ham,per, but despite coats of sanding sealer the knocks keep coming and spoiling the surface, so you will need the epoxy/glass combo to get a good finish. And, of course St. Canute is a steel plated ship anyway, so you need a good hard surface to get a decant paint finish that won't show every tap and knock.

Martin

Hi Richard,
Unless you are planning to finish the hull with varnish, to show off the wood, the easiest way is to fit hard balsa or obechi blocks and cut, file and sand to fit. This is the 'way out' I chose on the renovation of my Billing fish cutter. See pics.
Pic 1. The mess I started with,
Pic 2. Block fitted and shaped, new keel fitted, whole hull then covered inside and out with glass fibre tissue and EzeKote,
Pic 3. Preliminary priming prior to final filling (minimal) and sanding,
Pic 4. Nearly there 😉
Otherwise you are faced with some tedious steaming, bending and pinning😲 Hope this helps some.
Good luck, keep us up to date with progress please👍, Cheers, Doug 😎