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    by Morkullen πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ ( Recruit)
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    5 Posts 4 Replies 2 Photos 2 Likes
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    RNinMunich
    Fleet Admiral
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    Country: πŸ‡©πŸ‡ͺ Germany
    Online: 50 minutes ago
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    Hmm! Let's 'Cut to the chase'!
    First; I've never been on a ship, naval or civil, and I've been on a few during my 30 odd year career designing COMMS systems for ships, mostly naval, that used gloss paints OR matt paints.
    Matt paint, whether for scale or full size, rapidly shows the wear marks where folks tread or grab or where we habitually grab it on models.
    This rapidly creates a shiny effect, like the seat of your favourite, most comfortable and ancient trousers (which the Missus probably wanted to throw out years ago but you are fighting a REARguard action) 😁

    During WW2 the emphasis was on reducing the reflectivity of paints on warships.
    Gloss on a ship / boat MAY not look any different from satin or matt at a distance BUT; it will reflect sunlight and flash which attracts attention and betrays the presence of the vessel. Furthermore gloss shows the wear and tear marks much sooner than satin.
    Whether matt paints were available or not in those days I don't know, but even if they were I don't think they would have been used after the initial durability tests on board.

    Having seen the paint part numbers, all BS381C xxx, specified on the Thornycroft 'blueprints' that Martin sent me, I would say that the paint colours you need Morkullen are
    RN Light Weatherworks grey BS381C 676 = Colour Coats M01
    RN Dark Admiralty grey BS381C 632 = Colour Coats M16
    RN Light Admiralty grey BS381C 697= Colour Coats M23
    See page 3 of the colour chart, see attached colour charts from Sovereign Hobbies for their Colour Coats paints, which have been derived from original Admiralty paint chips.. Colour Coats are enamel.

    If you prefer acrylic try Life Colour set CS33 Royal Navy WW2 Set 1.
    See page 6 of attached Life Colour catalogue.
    Happy painting, don't forget to post pics / vids of the resultsπŸ‘
    Cheers, Doug 😎
    PS have a look at the recent HMS Campbeltown 1/96 thread for further detail of the recent discussion on WW2 RN paints.
    BTW; if I feel after painting that the finish is still too glossy I give it a blast of Lord Nelson satin, or in extreme cases, matt clear varnish.
    Otherwise I agree with Reilly's commentsπŸ‘
    Young at heart - slightly older in other places πŸ˜‰ Cheers Doug
    Westquay
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    Country: πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ United Kingdom
    Online: 2 months ago
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    My point was that real vessels of that era didn't get matt paint as it wasn't strictly available. They had satin or, as they called it, "non gloss". For anything. I'm not remotely interested in warships of any sort, but I do know about paints and they could only use what was available.

    Martin
    reilly4
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    Country: πŸ‡¦πŸ‡Ί Australia
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    I use Satin enamels as they are more durable than Matt finishes, especially on the hulls, but still go over them with clear matt enamel for realism.
    The 'scale' appearance is the consideration. From a distance a real boat even if finished with a gloss marine enamel would not look glossy. A WW2 boat such as an MTB would definitely have a Matt finish, and always 2 coats. Working models get scuffed in use.
    2
    Westquay
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    Country: πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ United Kingdom
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    I use enamels, always. They don't react with anything. Rustoleum do a range of colours in gloss and satin and are cheaper than any other rattle cans. I get mine from a branch of Boyes.

    The original was always a satin rather than a matt. Totally matt paint wasn't available then.

    Martin
    Morkullen
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    Country: πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ United Kingdom
    Online: 1 year ago
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    I am a bit stuck as to what type of paints to use on my Thornycroft MTB.
    Do I use gloss or matt? What type of paint is suggested Acrylic, emulsion, etc? Who can supply - say - 250ml of any recommended paint as I will probably need to apply at least two coats. I have already applied sanding sealer and undercoat and now need finishing paints. One for under hull and t'other for topsides. Any suggestions for a supplier would be greatly appreciated.



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