Hi DodgyGeezer,
You are definitely one switched on Guy!
I wished I joined this web site a lot sooner the knowledge you guys have is awesome and the fact that you don't mind sharing all this information.
When making Cottesmore, If only I new then I would of used this in Cottesmore in stead of the system that I have used.
(I will explain my system in my Cottesmore's log soon)
Thanks again.

Martin.

I use this fairly extensively.

https://www.lutonmodelboat.co.uk/hints/RC%20Switch%20Iss3.pdf

The advantage is that you have complete flexibility - you can build a cascade of switches or switch multiple voltages as you require...

Hi m02is500,
I have used this in the past to control some LED circuits.
The disadvantage of it is that it powers up the first circuit then when it receives the next signal it switches off the first circuit and switches on the second and so on.
You are unable to have all circuits on at the same time.
Available on eBay at £12.99.

Martin.

Something like this will switch an LED lighting circuit on. If you want more complex lighting switching you can get more complex switching solutions, but this is simple and cheap. Takes 1 channel...

https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-receiver-controlled-switch-1.html?countrycode=GB&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIlb_HwYGW4gIVibHtCh0ZPwayEAYYASABEgLuEfD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

"...what would be good is what you need is this speed controller this for the leds ect ..."

Every modeller has their own preferred set of materials, equipment, etc. I tend to go for very cheap kit - other people will prefer more expensive and more reliable items.

I'd be surprised if a motor specced at 1-2A would exceed 80A under stall. Are those figures no-load rather than under optimum load? If so, we may be looking at 5-10A under running conditions? That still sounds a lot - I might expect 2-5A running, and fuse at 10-15A. So you might use an MTronics Viper 20 like this: https://howesmodels.co.uk/product/mtroniks-viper-marine-20-plug-n-play-electronic-speed-controller/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI-72y5fmV4gIVibPtCh099gtiEAQYAyABEgKaI_D_BwE

The drain will depend on the battery capability, of course. I tend to design for 7.2NiMh - that means that it is easy to drop the voltage to 6 or rise it to 12 if I need to. You will need a bit of ballast for that boat - you might find that lead-acid can provide the power needed, and that would also provide the weight!

If you want to decide based on data rather than ideas from others. perhaps it would be a good idea to actually measure the drain under running conditions? Do you have a recording wattmeter? If not, just go to ebay and search for 'Watt Meter Power Analyzer'. For about £8 you get a little blue box that attaches between battery and motor, and records current and maximum power drain...

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Digital-Monitor-LCD-Watt-Meter-60V-100A-DC-Ammeter-RC-Battery-Power-Amp-Analyzer/362444865559?_trkparms=aid%3D1110001%26algo%3DSPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20131231084308%26meid%3Df08eeb60704a4dd2a85883d23b7b8959%26pid%3D100010%26rk%3D5%26rkt%3D24%26sd%3D362580489901%26itm%3D362444865559&_trksid=p2047675.c100010.m2109

yes I have a charger the radio set is what I use for my nitro helicopter but thought I would have to go 2.4 ghz the motor is a Johnson 600 3v-12v DC
Operating specifications:
4.8V - 1.4A - 9200 RPM
6V - 1.5A - 11,500 RPM
7.2V - 1.7A - 13,800 RPM
9V - 1.9A - 17250 RPM
12V - 2.3A - 23,000 RPM
the motor is capable of high torque output but the current can easily exceed 40A-50A under load and could hit 80A if stalled at 12V.Ensure that stall situations are prevented by using either a fuse or current limiter in series with the motor.

what would be good is what you need is this speed controller this for the leds ect but I will get there in the end

PS THANK YOU FOR YOUR TIME

So you already have an appropriate motor installed. All you then need is a radio (Tx and Rx), a servo, a speed controller and a radio-switch if you want to add switchable lights. Oh, and a battery.

You will need a radio because 35mhz is an aircraft band. Boats can use 27mhz, 40mhz (both old technologies now) or 2.4ghz. I would strongly recommend 2.4ghz - it's cheap and has lots of advantages. You can get a set for less than £50 - I have seen them for less than £20! But get one with more than 2 channels if you want to do extra light switching.

The hull is a displacement one - I suggest a standard 7.2v NiMh battery pack (though I don't know your motor voltage?). Do you have a charger?

They say a good quality low drain motor such as a Decaperm or Mabuchi 545 or 550 with a reduction gear unit and it said a 3 prop

I have an old 35mhz but if I need new will get motor is the one that comes with it which is a brushed motor going through a pulley system and the prop was one that came with its well

This is a difficult question to answer.
I would contact Slipway in the first instance to see what their recommendations are. This should give you a prop size and from that a motor size. You will then need to select a power supply. This will be likely related to your expected run time and battery type.
When you have a motor rating you can then select a speed controller.
With respect to Leds once again the answer is not straight forward. Each colour of led operates at different voltages therefore you have to fit diffent sizes of voltage dropping resistors. You should be able to google for solutions.
I note on slipway web site a 50mm prop is recommended.
Maybe some other members can suggest a motor size.

Do you have a radio control? And what is your budget? Do you have a brushed motor?

Broadly, I would guess that you have a wide choice between cheap Chinese from HobbyKing or Ebay, or more professional kit from somewhere like Action Electronics...