Got the after half of the ply deck on and a lot of filling of wee dips and dints prior to final sanding and gloss painting.
All build from here on in. I need dowel for the mast, but B&Q are only allowed to sell me emergency items. It's like Sunday trading all over again!
Martin
Got the after half of the ply deck on and a lot of filling of wee dips and dints prior to final sanding and gloss painting.
All build from here on in. I need dowel for the mast, but B&Q are only allowed to sell me emergency items. It's like Sunday trading all over again!
Tried out the RC gear today and it worked fine. Sail winch on the trigger, steering on the wheel. I can't see a problem with that. The winch is automatically centred, 3 turns one way, 3 tother. I red a lot about servos not lasting long due to loading, so I'm already considering a screwed rod system, then the load is taken by the thread, not any gears, although a worm and wheel would work too. My trouble is, I wouldn't understand the electrickery with the microswitches, etc. Clearly there is room for experimentation if you have the nous and some workshoppery. I need to tension the steering cord as it wouldn't grip the pulley, but that shouldn't be a problem.
Getting there, slowly.
Martin
Tried out the RC gear today and it worked fine. Sail winch on the trigger, steering on the wheel. I can't see a problem with that. The winch is automatically centred, 3 turns one way, 3 tother. I red a lot about servos not lasting long due to loading, so I'm already considering a screwed rod system, then the load is taken by the thread, not any gears, although a worm and wheel would work too. My trouble is, I wouldn't understand the electrickery with the microswitches, etc. Clearly there is room for experimentation if you have the nous and some workshoppery. I need to tension the steering cord as it wouldn't grip the pulley, but that shouldn't be a problem.
Getting there, slowly.
Hi Martin,
It looks like you have already came up with a solution.
As for sailing i do not have a clue, but i am sure that there are other members here that could help you.
Martin555.
Hi Martin,
It looks like you have already came up with a solution.
As for sailing i do not have a clue, but i am sure that there are other members here that could help you.
Martin555.
If it looks right it probably is.
Pulley pic. below. That's what I'm going with as that's all that can work in the very limited space. I tried plugging RC in, but the steering servo just went to one end of its travel and stopped, at which point I pulled the power plug out. The FlySky 3 channel set worked fine when I got it last year, it was supposed to be pre-bound, but I don't know now. Anyway, just as it got too cold outside I found the bind plug, so that's tomorrow's job. I also added an Alpine dropper loop knot to the main sheeting loop and a length of elastic to that for tension. The Alpine (butterfly) knot is where the sheets will attach when I've made some clips.
Trouble is, I have no idea how all this stuff works. I've never seen a sail winch working. I don't know how to make it go to one end and call that sheeted in, so that the other way is sheeted out! And that's happening with a Tx. meant for a speedboat or car, but hey, that's what I got. The fancy DX8 with a screen is for my aircraft and so is the DX5e. Anyone have any experience that an absolute beginner can understand about winch systems?
Martin
Pulley pic. below. That's what I'm going with as that's all that can work in the very limited space. I tried plugging RC in, but the steering servo just went to one end of its travel and stopped, at which point I pulled the power plug out. The FlySky 3 channel set worked fine when I got it last year, it was supposed to be pre-bound, but I don't know now. Anyway, just as it got too cold outside I found the bind plug, so that's tomorrow's job. I also added an Alpine dropper loop knot to the main sheeting loop and a length of elastic to that for tension. The Alpine (butterfly) knot is where the sheets will attach when I've made some clips.
Trouble is, I have no idea how all this stuff works. I've never seen a sail winch working. I don't know how to make it go to one end and call that sheeted in, so that the other way is sheeted out! And that's happening with a Tx. meant for a speedboat or car, but hey, that's what I got. The fancy DX8 with a screen is for my aircraft and so is the DX5e. Anyone have any experience that an absolute beginner can understand about winch systems?
Well, odd, no responses, eh?
Anyway, I tried model aircraft ball joints but there was no space to operate them, so then I came up with a great lightbulb moment. A slotted disc with a pin sticking up from the tiller, allowing the swing and rock of the tiller as it goes from one extreme to another on such an angled rudder stock. It worked, but I fancied some lack of precision would be difficult to build out, so, I finally made a pulley system, with a 1" brass pulley on the rudder shaft, operated by 2 1/2" PTFE pulleys on stainless shafts, held in brass housings epoxied to the rear bulkhead. The low profile Hitec servo that had sat in front of the GWS sail winch was moved to the aft compartment and mounted so it lined up with the 2 smaller pulleys. When my new braid arrives, I'll give a try. Then it'll be time to fix the after half of the deck finally.
You can see that, being a tight wad, I used J cloth from the Poundshop with the epoxy, to act as a strengthener as GRP cloth was pricey plus postage. Worked a treat and we're still using the rest of the sheets as dishcloths and sanitisers in this mad lurgi- ridden world. The model is made using sawn planks from a chair my Granddad made in the 30s from real Honduras mahogany. He was a top cabinet maker AND a model boat fan so would approve. The chairs never suited the table (which my daughter still uses) and then central heating caused the old hide glue to fail in the joints which then broke, so this was a good use for the beautiful wood.
Martin
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Well, odd, no responses, eh?
Anyway, I tried model aircraft ball joints but there was no space to operate them, so then I came up with a great lightbulb moment. A slotted disc with a pin sticking up from the tiller, allowing the swing and rock of the tiller as it goes from one extreme to another on such an angled rudder stock. It worked, but I fancied some lack of precision would be difficult to build out, so, I finally made a pulley system, with a 1" brass pulley on the rudder shaft, operated by 2 1/2" PTFE pulleys on stainless shafts, held in brass housings epoxied to the rear bulkhead. The low profile Hitec servo that had sat in front of the GWS sail winch was moved to the aft compartment and mounted so it lined up with the 2 smaller pulleys. When my new braid arrives, I'll give a try. Then it'll be time to fix the after half of the deck finally.
You can see that, being a tight wad, I used J cloth from the Poundshop with the epoxy, to act as a strengthener as GRP cloth was pricey plus postage. Worked a treat and we're still using the rest of the sheets as dishcloths and sanitisers in this mad lurgi- ridden world. The model is made using sawn planks from a chair my Granddad made in the 30s from real Honduras mahogany. He was a top cabinet maker AND a model boat fan so would approve. The chairs never suited the table (which my daughter still uses) and then central heating caused the old hide glue to fail in the joints which then broke, so this was a good use for the beautiful wood.
Martin
Hi all, due to the complete non-entity which is RC model flying due to the lurgi, I am thinking again about my yacht, Vanity.
Being a Victorian plank-on-edge cutter it has a very extreme angle of rudder stock. There is little space in the lazarette (arse end) and any rudder arm inside would lift and hit the underside of the deck. It would have to be that high to avoid water ingress as that end would be rather near the wet stuff.
Does anyone have experience of such arrangements? Somebody suggested that I use external lines to a scale tiller, which on Vanity was a single log of mahogany 9 feet long. In a way the same question, in reverse arises. Wouldn't a tiller attached to such an angled rudder try to bury itself into the deck? I know I lived on the real boat for 2 years, but I didn't have the tiller (or a rudder for that matter! Some klutz in Burnham allegedly had it over their fireplace and refused to sell it back to me.
Any ideas would be very much appreciated. Any links to a youtube showing such a tiller on such a craft being used for real would also be very helpful.
Cheers,
Martin
Hi all, due to the complete non-entity which is RC model flying due to the lurgi, I am thinking again about my yacht, Vanity.
Being a Victorian plank-on-edge cutter it has a very extreme angle of rudder stock. There is little space in the lazarette (arse end) and any rudder arm inside would lift and hit the underside of the deck. It would have to be that high to avoid water ingress as that end would be rather near the wet stuff.
Does anyone have experience of such arrangements? Somebody suggested that I use external lines to a scale tiller, which on Vanity was a single log of mahogany 9 feet long. In a way the same question, in reverse arises. Wouldn't a tiller attached to such an angled rudder try to bury itself into the deck? I know I lived on the real boat for 2 years, but I didn't have the tiller (or a rudder for that matter! Some klutz in Burnham allegedly had it over their fireplace and refused to sell it back to me.
Any ideas would be very much appreciated. Any links to a youtube showing such a tiller on such a craft being used for real would also be very helpful.
