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    StuartE
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    Member No.#5371
    RegisteredπŸ“…11th Jan 2019
    Last OnlineπŸ“…18th Aug 2019
    CityπŸ“Surbiton
    CountryπŸ‡¬πŸ‡§United Kingdom
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    Roasalie - Fairey Huntsman 31
    This model was started in December 2018 and finished at the end of May 2019. All built by myself and only the second RC Boat I've made. It's ready for its maiden voyage in open water in the next 3 days and cant wait!
    (Working Vessel) Mowe 2
    I hadn't build a RC model for over 45 years, so as a 60th Birthday present my wife bought me this Aeronaut Mowe 2 kit, complete with all the RC equipment; motor, servo, transmitter and receiver, ESC unit etc. It was a great kit to build and took me about 3 months from start to finish. The hull was a bit tricky, but a tube of P38 and lots of sanding, re-filling with light balsa filler, re-sanding, finishing and painting and patience won through! Not a brilliant finish, but an ideal boat to get my hand back-in to modelling. When sailing, the boat needed a bit of ballast in the form of 2 old AA batteries in the bow to keep it stable and level in the water at speed! (ESC: Aeronaut) (8/10)
    Recent Posts
    πŸ“ Prop size and speed
    3 months ago by StuartE ( Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    Hi all,

    Many thanks for all the fantastic responses and info.
    I currently have a 7.4V S2 LiPo 4000mha, a 15A Motor and ESC with a 1000kva Motor. The prop I'm using is a 2 blade S type 35mm.

    Apart from the Motor there is no weight up front in the bow, so can't reduce that much, but I am using a "heavy" servo at 68g in the stern, so will use a smaller less weighty servo.

    I'll try changing the motor to 30A 1000Kva with a 42mm S type 2 blade to see what difference that makes. I also need to re-grease the prop shaft as suspect that it was running hot at the high rpm and caused a bit of speed loss.

    I'll post a comparison video so you can see the results!

    1000kva Motor
    15A Motor
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    πŸ“ Prop size and speed
    3 months ago by StuartE ( Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    My Mtroniks 1000KVA rated at 15A motor does not give my boat enough speed with a 35mm S type Prop. If I wanted to increase the speed, can I just increase the prop size or would I have to increase the motor size as well? What is the rule of thumb for increasing speed of the boat?

    boat
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    πŸ“ Maiden Voyage
    3 months ago by StuartE ( Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    With battery fully charged and with great anticipation, Rosalie had her first voyage on the Bushy Park Boating lake a couple of weekends ago. It went very well, but not as fast as I was expecting and at full speed, the battery started to run down and affect the speed after about 20 mins running. It looked good though and there were plenty of onlookers, the turns looked spectacular and mirrored exactly what would happen on the real thing!.

    Next thing is to reduce the weight a bit to see if it can go faster or play with the prop size....... what fun!!

    I'll upload a video once done on youtube....I thought you could upload directly here via pictures, but seems not
    IMG 1295
    ▢️
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    πŸ“ Roasalie - Fairey Huntsman 31
    4 months ago by StuartE ( Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    This model was started in December 2018 and finished at the end of May 2019. All built by myself and only the second RC Boat I've made.

    It's ready for its maiden voyage in open water in the next 3 days and cant wait!
    IMG 1295
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    RC Boat
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    πŸ“ Finished at last.....(but might change or add some things later!)
    4 months ago by StuartE ( Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    At last the boat is finished to a point where I can take it out for its maiden voyage. It passed leak and floatation tests in the bath and all electric function as they should. Now to show it off in open water on the Boating Lake in Bushy Park, Kingston upon Thames.
    I'm hoping for a bit of sun and not too much wind to create too many waves at first, until I get used to handling it.
    I'll upload pictures of Rosalie in action in my next post!
    I will probably do some tinkering and some detail additions later on, but for now ITS FINISHED!
    Still not happy with the pulpit rail and I will most likely remove it and do it again taking into consideration all the great advice received from the fellow members of this site.
    Thank you for following the build........now what's next!!!

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    πŸ“ Almost finished
    4 months ago by StuartE ( Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    Almost there....... Handrails and seats and cabin almost completed.
    Things are however, not going well with the pulpit rail.....All pieces are cut and bent to shape as per the instructions to the correct lengths, but using a jig made from ply I cant get the brass rail to hold with solder...its a real mess, so decided to try and use expoxy glue to hold the rail and connecting pieces together...It doesn't look good and I'm really upset that it will spoil the look of the boat.

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    πŸ“ A look under the hood....
    4 months ago by StuartE ( Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    While Superstructure is moving on in leaps and bounds thought I'd let you look under the hood of the Huntsman - Rosalie.
    There is lots of space here so you can put things where you like, but the limitations is that the Superstructure has a deep cabin which means in this part of the mid-ships, everything must be mounted low and off the sides and bulkheads.
    I was also limited by cable length so although I build a "heath robinson" bridge over the battery to put the receiver, this had to be mounted on the side as the superstructure would'nt sit down on the deck!
    I also bought far too big a servo so this is mounted upside down to fit!!
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    πŸ“ Windows are in (and a few more bits added!)
    4 months ago by StuartE ( Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    So, superstructure is really taking shape now the windows are in and the top screen has been added. Next stage is to build and add the Pulpit on the bow and the rest of the handrails and seating.
    I am not looking forward to the pulpit as have no welding equipment or skills here.
    Another challenge then to see if solder will hold the brass rails in place. If not it will be constructed with expoxy resin and then painted over.
    Onwards and upwards.

    brass rails
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    πŸ“ Superstructure takes shape
    4 months ago by StuartE ( Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    I'm so sorry to my build blog followers that I haven't updated on my progress for some time, but the build has taken a back seat for a few weeks due to changing jobs, but over the last week or so I've picked the build of the superstructure back up again.
    Just following the instructions at the moment so as to get to the build level where I can start the paint job before adding all the detailing bits.
    I have decided not to build the structure roof's with planks as the instructions show, but to use balsa sheet as it looks a lot easier..These were "bent" into shape over the skeleton with a little help from some steam from the kettle. It really does work well in forming the shape....but also burns your fingers if you're not careful. Another lesson learnt... wear some gloves!
    So with basic build done I started on the paint job following the colours of the hull design.
    I prepared it the same as the hull with light bals filler first then rubbed down so as to fill most of the wood grain imperfections, then a cout of filler primer, followed by primer, then paint and finally a couple of layers of clear laquer. All with a lot of sanding a smoothing inbetween.
    Its not bad!
    Now waiting for the weekend to prepare and install windows, pulpit rails and cabin floors with some left over mahogany. I can't wait!😎

    filler
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    πŸ“ Now onto the Superstructure
    5 months ago by StuartE ( Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    Now the hull is complete, instead of putting in all the electrics, I decided to start the superstructure build. As per the instructrions and to get a good snug fit on the hull, it has to be built on the hull. It's going well at present and no real worries yet!
    Skeleton is complete, now onto the roofs and cockpit. I have decided to do roof in sheets of balsa 3mm thick rather than the 3/32" planks that the instructions suggest....that seems like a disaster waiting to happen for a novice! 😎

    balsa 3mm thick
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Old Swordsman or Huntsman ?
    5 months ago by StuartE ( Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    I am currently building a Huntsman 31, so I can only assume yours is the Swordsman. Nice restoration!
    Is it a wooden hull or GRP? You'll have to upload a video when you take it out for the first time so we can see how it goes.πŸ‘
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    πŸ’¬ Re: First ever
    5 months ago by StuartE ( Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    I did the same as you on my hull build as it was my second attenmpt but used low weight (34gsm) fibre cloth in between coats of ezekote.
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    πŸ’¬ Re: My Retirement Plans !!!
    5 months ago by StuartE ( Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    No restful retirement for you then!🀣
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    πŸ“ Decking added
    5 months ago by StuartE ( Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    With the Hull paint job complete, the next stage of the build was to add the decking and rubbing strip. Being a novice at this I decided the best option was not to go for a complicated deck....KISS!!
    So I opted for solid mahogany. Veneer was not included in the kit, but the nice people at SLEC sent me a 2mm solid sheet to make the decking out of. The instructions said to make the decking out of 6 pieces, 2 for the aft deck, 2 pieces port and starboard and 2 for the bow. I went for just the 2 pieces, one port side and one starboard as I didn't want to see too many joins. Cutting was a little tricky as I didnt want a large piece splitting, but a solid support for the cutting table and a sharp scalpel did the trick.
    However, as throughout this build I learnt another valuable lesson, dont use a water based glue to attach bare wood to bare wood, especially one so thin....result are it bows and curls and distorts in all the wrong places. Use a two part contact adhesive! I weighed down the two pieces of decking for the entire deck and it eventually laid flat.
    I finished it off with mahogany 1/8" x 1/4" strip all round the deck for the rubbing strip, sanded and then varnished with 3 coats of satin yatch varnish. I think the results are good, but judge for yourself....
    Now its onto the superstructure....😎😜

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    πŸ’¬ Re: Hull Paint job complete
    6 months ago by StuartE ( Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    WoW. Fantastic planking!. How long did that take? I dont think I could attempt that so I'm just using Mahogany sheet for the decking like the instructions show. What wood have you used to get that effect?
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Hull Paint job complete
    6 months ago by StuartE ( Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    Many thanks for the idea.
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Hull Paint job complete
    6 months ago by StuartE ( Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    Hi Colin, thanks. The Fairey decals came with the kit from SLEC.

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    πŸ“ Hull Paint job complete
    6 months ago by StuartE ( Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    So.... Patience is not one of my strong points and paint spraying is definately not. I don't have the facilities or the right equipment to create a first class excellent paint job, so this part of the build was always going to be a challeng and it proved to be right.
    the first primer layer went on great and it looked good, followed by a layer of brilliant appliance white from a large can from my local Halfords.....all looked perfect. Then came the masking and application of the Capri Blue hull and pinstriping at deck level. Well, this didn't go great as I couldn't get the hull line correct as it shows on real life Huntsmans or the instruction sheet. In addition, the Frog tape I used, lifted in places over the hull stringers and was a real mess......it had to come off!
    A re-application of primer and white gloss coat followed, and with more patience than I thought I had, managed to mask up again for the Blue Hull. I learnt from the first mistake and made sure that the stirngers were masked on all sides first, then added a solid masking strip all the way down the hull.
    Although not perfect the results can be see here in the pictures.
    I decided that I'd add a couple of layers of Halfords clear laquer to finish of the paint job to create a tough, clear, glossy finish, but before this decided to name the boat by using lettraset. Here I learnt a second and third valuable lesson.....make sure the paint is completely dry first and also don't spray too much laquer in one place......it makes the paint run into the laquer!!! The results can be seen on the bow.
    Oh well, I tried my best and not going to re-do it now.
    So, Rosalie hull is now painted and its time to do the decking.
    For this I am going to use thin sheets of mahogany. They were not provided as part of the kit so had to appeal to SLEC who kindly sent me two sheets of mahogany for this purpose. Thank you SLEC for being understanding that a "Kit" should contain all that's necessary to build it and not have to go and find more pieces to buy.
    Judge the paint job for yourself and don't be tooo critical as its only my second boat build.πŸ˜‹

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    πŸ“ Ready for the Paint job!
    6 months ago by StuartE ( Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    Following the completion of the basic hull build, I installed the prop shaft and motor ( Mtroniks Hydra 15A) and all lined up nicely. Next, drilled the hole ready for the rudder assembly to be inserted and it all fits perfectly vertical to my great delight. Its now masked up and ready for the hull paint job which will start with a primer filler layer followed by white primer, then brilliant white gloss with an Ink Blue design and black anti-foul keel.
    I'm just waiting for the shed to warm up a bit and reduce the humidity as the wife wil definitely kick me out if I spray indoors. She just about allows me to do the build in the dining room, but only when she's out!

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    πŸ’¬ Re: Virgin Atlantic Challenger
    6 months ago by StuartE ( Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    This is a nice looking yacht. Where did you get the plans from? I would like to have a go at this one for my next build. Have you tried changing the rudder for a more conventional one?

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    πŸ“ Hull finishing touches
    6 months ago by StuartE ( Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    The Huntsman Hull has now had the finishing touches applied...Sanding Sealer, Eze-Kote, glassfibre sheet and hull chine bars added. The inside of the hull has been given a good dollop of Eze-Kote to seal it and waterproof it so next job is to fit the prop tube and motor before the whole hull gets a coat of primer...
    I've only just realised, but the kit from SLEC does not contain any decking, so I need to sort out whether to just go for plain mahogany veneer or try to find teak decking which is laser cut to fit with plank marks....any help or advice here welcome for a novice! (I can't find anything suitable on the internet). 😑

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    πŸ’¬ Basic hull construction completed
    6 months ago by StuartE ( Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    No. The motor size is not in the instructions, but from a previous forum post I've been recommended a 28xx Brushless 1100Kv with a 11.1V 2200Mah LiPo battery.
    Yes. I have that edition and following the editorial. it is a more detailed version of the instructions as both written by Dave Milbourne. πŸ‘

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    πŸ’¬ Basic hull construction completed
    6 months ago by StuartE ( Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    Hi Chris. Thanks for your feedback.....I thought so too, but I suppose its too late to change that now and we'll just have to see what it looks like after the glassfibre application. it probably won't affect performance, just the looks!😎
    It's my first attempt at a hull like this, so can only learn from the experience.

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    πŸ“ Basic hull construction completed
    6 months ago by StuartE ( Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    This week has been about getting the basic hull construction completed and especially the tricky bow. This was done in three stages; the first group of pictures shows the four balsa blocks being roughly sanded to shape. The instructions were good here as they recommended the required curves be shaped using sandpaper wrapped around an aerosol can....This being achieved, the next stage was to fill all the gaps around the balsa blocks with P38 and sand back to smooth out the curves. The 3rd stage was to fully coat the entire hull with Balsa Lite fine surface filler and sand back to wood so that all the fine grain imperfections are filled. I'm very happy with the results, but now concerned that too much has been sanded off the bow to get those curves...What do you think? πŸ˜‰
    Next stage is to apply a couple of thin coats of sanding sealer and then onto covering with 35gsm lightweight glassfibre fabric and Eze-Kote to give the hull more strength and durability.

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    πŸ“ What size brushless motor?
    7 months ago by StuartE ( Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    I'm building a new Fairey Hunstman 31 from a kit bought through SLEC. It has provision for a single prop shaft and I've bought a 2 bladed plastic x-shape prop, 25mm based on a recommendation from SLEC. What is the best/most efficient/most powerful brushless electric motor/ battery combination I can fit?
    I'm a novice at this and my previous boat kit had all parts supplied.
    Thank you in anticipation....πŸ‘

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    πŸ’¬ Friday's Child Fairey Huntsman 31
    7 months ago by StuartE ( Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    Hi Boatshed....How is our refurb going? I'm currently building a new Huntsman 31 from a kit bought from SLEC. I've just started so keen to get as much shared info on any "gotchas". I see yours has a single prop....what motor does it have?
    My kit is single prop and want to get the most economical/powerful brushless as I can, but as a novice, don't have much of an idea at present.

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    πŸ’¬ Fairey Hunsman renovation part 6
    7 months ago by StuartE ( Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    I'm following your Blog with interest as I'm currently building a Huntsman 31 from a kit bought from SLEC. I'm building the hull from ply and getting the curves right on the hull skins is proving challenging. Mine has only a single motor and rudder. Good luck with the renovation workπŸ‘

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    πŸ’¬ First problem.......
    7 months ago by StuartE ( Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    Yes. The biggest enemy of making this model is patience! Thankyou for you responses...

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    πŸ“ Hull progressing nicely!
    7 months ago by StuartE ( Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    OK, so the last 2 posts on the blog were from work undertaken three weeks ago. I am now up to the present day and have spent the whole week and weekend in getting the bottom and side skins on the skeleton of the hull and putting on the transom. Because the curves of the hull are quite specific on the Huntsman, only one piece of skin can be fitted at a time, and then trimmed into place before the next piece of skin will fit.
    In the previous post I mentioned all the laser cut pieces are cut oversize.....fitting the skins was a real challenge!
    Following the instructions at this stage went out the window and I fitted the skins in the reverse order, but feel it was the best option. The instructions say built from the bow first and work back to the transom, but impossible to fit the pieces in this order, so I started with the aft and worked forwards.
    It also mentions to overlap the side skins with the bottom skins, but all I could manage was to butt the pieces together with a tight fit and fill with P38 afterwards.
    The pictures show the completed skins, trimmed, sanded and gaps filled with P38 and then sanded again.
    It now takes on a good shape, however the difficult pieces on the bow are still to be completed. These are formed of 4 pieces of solid balsa wood that need to be cut and sanded to multiple curves...… next weeks job!
    Once this is done then its on to filling again and re-sanding and finishing. Hopefully it would look more like a Huntsman Hull rather than a hammer head shark!

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    πŸ“ First problem.......
    7 months ago by StuartE ( Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    OK..... so after the first week and the excitement of getting the skeleton of the hull and keel in place I hit the first problem.....this is not a kit where everything is cut to the exact size, length, dimensions of the model. You have to do some cutting, sanding and getting out a modelling plane to get the parts supplied fitted.
    This now requires some skill and careful fitting of the stringers. Basically they are 2 pieces of hardwood 1/8" x 1/4" cut to length and glued together and need to be shaped and held in place while the glue sets overnight...….not a simple task.
    Next, to start fitting the hull skins, the stringers need to be shaped to 2 angles. One for the bottom skins and a different angle for the side skins.
    Taking too much of the stringers off by using a plane will mean the skins don't lie at the correct angles for gluing….gently does it!!
    I take my time and check angles after each pass of the plane over the stringers...WOW stressful, but all's well with the first 2 bottom skins!
    In addition the Keel needs to be trimmed to the exact angles of the bottom skins so they overlap or butt up against each other.
    My advice here is to follow the instructions to the letter or you'll probably be using far more P38 in the later stages filling holes and gaps!!
    NOTE: The bottom and side skins are cut oversize, so they don't fit exactly to the stringers.

    glue
    hull
    model
    parts
    wood
    kit
    sanding
    keel
    fitting the side skins
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