Instructions give me two choices as to when to plank the 0.8mm false gun deck.
'It can be pinned and glued into place, then planked, or planked prior to fixing. The easiest way is the latter but the deck will have much less spring to get it past the top deck supports on the bulkheads.'
I was unable to get the deck anywhere near past the supports prior to planking, without fear of breakage, so I had no choice but to choose the latter. This involved cutting the deck in half along the centre line, then planking each half, starting at the centre line and working outwards
To get the two centre planks butted up as close as possible, I pinned both halves of the deck on the workbench prior to gluing.
However, as you can see in the photo, I was not careful enough when gluing the two halves in the hull and the join is visible, particularly at each end.
The jury is still out as the whether I should fit a 'centreline' plank, or leave well alone, as the top deck and ship's boats will hide most of poor workmanship.
Prior to fixing and matt varnishing, I used a fine pencil and ruler to represent the caulking.
Planking of the inner gun deck walls was quite straightforward, using 1.5x6mm lime wood. Another anomaly in the instructions variously describes it as 5mm and 6mm. It is in fact 6mm, so another note for Jotika.
Although the width would have made no difference, 6mm brought the planks just under the top deck supports, which is where they should be. I had to cut them to size between the middle bulkheads, to attain the correct level, but found no difficulty with a sharp Stanley knife and a straight edge.
Once finished, I was instructed to "paint the outer side of the wall with watered down pva where they are glued to the bulkheads. This will reduce the chance of the planks splitting when cutting out the gun ports."
Then sand the inner side smooth.
The next job is to prepare for first planking.