Another RC hobby? I'm already into RC scale model boats (since the early 1970's) and RC armor (since 2015) I am branching out to RC scale vehicles (but not too many). Notice the word scale in each of these three segments of RC hobbies.
This topic is for a RC semi tractor and lowboy trailer being converted from an inexpensive toy. It is already in 1/16 scale and should be compatible with my Springer ("truckable") tugs and Armor (tanks, etc.). I plan to use it at both Model Boat and Armor meets.
This first segment involves the selections I have made and my plan to make the necessary modifications to the toy.
I bought two ERTL about three years ago with the intent to convert them into RC. I paid about $70 (US) for the pair of them on sale. They are currently in the $70-80 range (each). They look good enough to use although not to exact scale. The project goal is to keep the cost down and have a fun functional vehicle.
Why buy two units? When done, I will be using parts from the second vehicle for the first, like wheels for extra axles and other parts.
Right now I am working on the semi-tractor. The new unit will have another axle, this one to lift by RC. It will also have the extra sleeper cabin and other accessories. I am planning to make the "gooseneck" (the part that connects to the trailer) RC controlled. Unfortunately the model's lowboy trailer suffers problems like the real trailers do. Too close to the ground. I will need to elevate the trailer sufficiently so it will not get stuck. I do not have to contend with railroad tracks which makes the vehicles good targets for fast moving trains.
The latest:
This evening I am cementing the chassis frame together. I had to print it in five pieces due to the limitations of my 3D printer. There will be rectangular steel tubing epoxied inside the frame for extra strength.
Lew
[{"id":"177001753368","url":"https:\/\/model-boats.com\/media\/177001753368\/l","thumbUrl":"https:\/\/model-boats.com\/media\/177001753368\/s","name":"177001753368"},{"id":"177001754557","url":"https:\/\/model-boats.com\/media\/177001754557\/l","thumbUrl":"https:\/\/model-boats.com\/media\/177001754557\/s","name":"177001754557"},{"id":"177001759117","url":"https:\/\/model-boats.com\/media\/177001759117\/l","thumbUrl":"https:\/\/model-boats.com\/media\/177001759117\/s","name":"177001759117"},{"id":"177001764693","url":"https:\/\/model-boats.com\/media\/177001764693\/l","thumbUrl":"https:\/\/model-boats.com\/media\/177001764693\/s","name":"177001764693"},{"id":"177001813547","url":"https:\/\/model-boats.com\/media\/177001813547\/l","thumbUrl":"https:\/\/model-boats.com\/media\/177001813547\/s","name":"177001813547"},{"id":"177001853295","url":"https:\/\/model-boats.com\/media\/177001853295\/l","thumbUrl":"https:\/\/model-boats.com\/media\/177001853295\/s","name":"177001853295"}]
Converting a toy semi tractor trailer into a decent RC model Unit
Another RC hobby? I'm already into RC scale model boats (since the early 1970's) and RC armor (since 2015) I am branching out to RC scale vehicles (but not too many). Notice the word scale in each of these three segments of RC hobbies.
This topic is for a RC semi tractor and lowboy trailer being converted from an inexpensive toy. It is already in 1/16 scale and should be compatible with my Springer ("truckable") tugs and Armor (tanks, etc.). I plan to use it at both Model Boat and Armor meets.
This first segment involves the selections I have made and my plan to make the necessary modifications to the toy.
I bought two ERTL about three years ago with the intent to convert them into RC. I paid about $70 (US) for the pair of them on sale. They are currently in the $70-80 range (each). They look good enough to use although not to exact scale. The project goal is to keep the cost down and have a fun functional vehicle.
Why buy two units? When done, I will be using parts from the second vehicle for the first, like wheels for extra axles and other parts.
Right now I am working on the semi-tractor. The new unit will have another axle, this one to lift by RC. It will also have the extra sleeper cabin and other accessories. I am planning to make the "gooseneck" (the part that connects to the trailer) RC controlled. Unfortunately the model's lowboy trailer suffers problems like the real trailers do. Too close to the ground. I will need to elevate the trailer sufficiently so it will not get stuck. I do not have to contend with railroad tracks which makes the vehicles good targets for fast moving trains.
The latest:
This evening I am cementing the chassis frame together. I had to print it in five pieces due to the limitations of my 3D printer. There will be rectangular steel tubing epoxied inside the frame for extra strength.
My co-worker, who occasionally gives me a little flak for messing about with model boats, just confided to me today that he’s looking into getting back to racing HO scale slot cars! So that surprised me. Then I start thinking about it. I used to race 1/24 scale drag cars and messed about with group 12 1/24 cars and Eurotoy 1/32 scale cars. Never been into HO but a buddy of mine in our boat group has a lot of experience with them…then I started to think about checking out what’s out there if we get a little slow at work…then I hear Captain Jack Aubrey’s voice paraphrasing in my head…..”you don’t have time for anymore damnable hobbies sir!!!”
🤣
HO scale? That's on the horizon for me as well. What I have is old, control by transformers via the tracks. Then it went to DCC where the tracks had constant DC and control by radio signal. I was thinking that a better setup would be total RC, no power to the tracks. Batteries are small and powerful. Any thoughts?
Lew
HO scale? That's on the horizon for me as well. What I have is old, control by transformers via the tracks. Then it went to DCC where the tracks had constant DC and control by radio signal. I was thinking that a better setup would be total RC, no power to the tracks. Batteries are small and powerful. Any thoughts?
Lew
I just checked on train controllers, apparently they still use DCC. Check out the cost. A couple of low cost RC Trans/Rec with speed controllers and batteries (or still use the track) looks like a workable inexpensive solution.
Lew
As I had decided to lengthen the chassis/frame by almost 8 inches (200mm), I decided to make a new frame (as previously shown). The new frame incorporated the mounting of items from the original truck now includes the mounting of the new items (servo mounts, motor and transfer case, axles, sleep cabin, etc.
The layout was done in my 3D CAD app (see photo). This also includes a suspension system as the toy truck had nothing but oblong holes to simulate up-down movement of the wheels.
Current Status:
The frame was printed in five pieces due to the limitations of my 3D printer's build plate. The cross-section is "U" shaped as I had some square soft steel tubing that would fit inside the "U". That was placed inside using JB-Kwick epoxy. Clean-up is currently in progress.
Lew
[{"id":"177014502056","url":"https:\/\/model-boats.com\/media\/177014502056\/l","thumbUrl":"https:\/\/model-boats.com\/media\/177014502056\/s","name":"177014502056"},{"id":"177014506463","url":"https:\/\/model-boats.com\/media\/177014506463\/l","thumbUrl":"https:\/\/model-boats.com\/media\/177014506463\/s","name":"177014506463"}]
As I had decided to lengthen the chassis/frame by almost 8 inches (200mm), I decided to make a new frame (as previously shown). The new frame incorporated the mounting of items from the original truck now includes the mounting of the new items (servo mounts, motor and transfer case, axles, sleep cabin, etc.
The layout was done in my 3D CAD app (see photo). This also includes a suspension system as the toy truck had nothing but oblong holes to simulate up-down movement of the wheels.
Current Status:
The frame was printed in five pieces due to the limitations of my 3D printer's build plate. The cross-section is "U" shaped as I had some square soft steel tubing that would fit inside the "U". That was placed inside using JB-Kwick epoxy. Clean-up is currently in progress.
Going to take a look at the power train parts I am accumulating for this project. (Trying to use what I have rather than buy new items.) So here is what I am looking at:
Geared Motor: Zheng ZYDT520, 550 RPM @ 12VDC.
Transfer Case: My 3D build + bearings 1:1
Axle #1 (front): Steerable (source unknown) 1/16 scale
Axle #2 (retractable): My 3D build
Axle #3 (through-put): (source unknown) 1/16 scale
Axle # 4 (end): (source unknown) 1/16 scale
Suspension Front: My 3D build, leaf spring
Suspensions Rear mains: My 3D build Coiled springs
Support plates and brackets: My 3D build
Servos: Futaba S3005 (2)
Having build the transfer case and gears with a 1:1 ratio, I can change the speed OR tractive power of the vehicle simply by making a new transfer case. This case takes the output from the motor and has two output shafts, one to the front and the other to the rear.
My concern right now is if six channels are enough?
Now back to 3D printing.
Lew
[{"id":"177016257862","url":"https:\/\/model-boats.com\/media\/177016257862\/l","thumbUrl":"https:\/\/model-boats.com\/media\/177016257862\/s","name":"177016257862"},{"id":"177016403061","url":"https:\/\/model-boats.com\/media\/177016403061\/l","thumbUrl":"https:\/\/model-boats.com\/media\/177016403061\/s","name":"177016403061"}]
Going to take a look at the power train parts I am accumulating for this project. (Trying to use what I have rather than buy new items.) So here is what I am looking at:
Geared Motor: Zheng ZYDT520, 550 RPM @ 12VDC.
Transfer Case: My 3D build + bearings 1:1
Axle #1 (front): Steerable (source unknown) 1/16 scale
Axle #2 (retractable): My 3D build
Axle #3 (through-put): (source unknown) 1/16 scale
Axle # 4 (end): (source unknown) 1/16 scale
Suspension Front: My 3D build, leaf spring
Suspensions Rear mains: My 3D build Coiled springs
Support plates and brackets: My 3D build
Servos: Futaba S3005 (2)
Having build the transfer case and gears with a 1:1 ratio, I can change the speed OR tractive power of the vehicle simply by making a new transfer case. This case takes the output from the motor and has two output shafts, one to the front and the other to the rear.
My concern right now is if six channels are enough?
If I can't do it with my 6-channel Futaba's (I have 2) I can go to my Specktrum 8 or one of my Flysky's (I have a spare 10-ch rec.). I don't think I will need past 10. If I ever get back to my fireboat rebuild I will look into this. I guess all those years as a test equipment designer paid off in preparing me for my retirement hobbies!
I have plenty of u-joints but with a short space between the motor and the transfer case I decided to make my own u-joint. (A 3D printed prototype to be remade stronger later.) Not a new idea, might of seen it somewhere before, looks ideal for that short space. Photo looks crummy, I painted the print as it was shiny black and hard to see. The center piece is floating and held captive by the two ends that are on stationary shafts.
Working on the truck's frame. Ran into some problems with the steel square tubing (approx .40 inch sq.) encased in the ABS 3D print. It has a thin wall but the steel is harder than I thought it would be. Slow, but making progress.
Thinking about sound... The sound units for a diesel truck at an "affordable price" are really bad. They start to get better at about $40 US. However, I ordered a GT Power Truck and Light Container system for about $60 US. More than I wanted to spend but for a little more money I get a lot more "bells and whistles". Should be fun.
Still working on this truck chassis. Making changes to the suspension as I go. Big issue is how much weight can it handle and how should the ABS suspension parts be designed. I think the last of several itineration's will work. Want the axles (all spring loaded) to move up and down.
New sound an lighting system arrived. Getting anxious to see this thing run.
Lew
[{"id":"177102813542","url":"https:\/\/model-boats.com\/media\/177102813542\/l","thumbUrl":"https:\/\/model-boats.com\/media\/177102813542\/s","name":"177102813542"}]
Still working on this truck chassis. Making changes to the suspension as I go. Big issue is how much weight can it handle and how should the ABS suspension parts be designed. I think the last of several itineration's will work. Want the axles (all spring loaded) to move up and down.
New sound an lighting system arrived. Getting anxious to see this thing run.
I've use PLA on a lot of suspension parts on my tracked ww2 German RSO, it's currently weighing in at 18lbs and have no issues with breakages, I'm running on PLA track links and sprockets with only two failed links due to a print issue I was unaware of at the time, I've used petg but have found no need on my model. I'm cautious of ABS as my work shed is small, and the fumes cause a little concern.
🤣