This is a well know model. I think there used to be an active group of TB modellers, this seems to have been maintained through a Facebook page - However, I don't use FB ! But Sarik models have put the original DVD on YouTube, which does help.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z4QeGUQ2KKg&t=4711s
Any experience or advice about making this model - always welcome and appreicated.
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This is a well know model. I think there used to be an active group of TB modellers, this seems to have been maintained through a Facebook page - However, I don't use FB ! But Sarik models have put the original DVD on YouTube, which does help.
Any experience or advice about making this model - always welcome and appreicated.
I have 3 servos. One for the rudder and a winch for the vangs and another winch for the main sail sheet. The foresail is left loose, it travels across the deck on a "horse", as it is on the full size vessel. This was so because the barge only had a "man and a boy" to man the boat. This kept wages down (ie more profit for the barge) but meant that the rigging trimming had to be kept to a minimum. Remember that the "horse" is a complicated build as its a double curve.
Have decided to leave the frames fixed to the baseboard while completing the first part of the planking. Need to give some thought to how the deck and gunwales are completed.
Have decided to initially use the keel I made for the Dutch barge on this model as well. Its perhaps a touch on the light side but then some modellers seem to have two - a lightweight and heavier one - depending on the weather. The fore/aft position will need some thinking - I do intend to build it with the bowsprit - which will bring the CLR well forward - the video indicates/suggests having two positions to deal with this. I do intend to add a brass keel band - should have done this at the start. Will give a secure fixing for the detachable keel and also act a a wear strip.
The figure came from eBay - unpainted - is 1/24th scale. Hopefully help guide the build - he's currently having a break and cup of tea !
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Have decided to leave the frames fixed to the baseboard while completing the first part of the planking. Need to give some thought to how the deck and gunwales are completed.
Have decided to initially use the keel I made for the Dutch barge on this model as well. Its perhaps a touch on the light side but then some modellers seem to have two - a lightweight and heavier one - depending on the weather. The fore/aft position will need some thinking - I do intend to build it with the bowsprit - which will bring the CLR well forward - the video indicates/suggests having two positions to deal with this. I do intend to add a brass keel band - should have done this at the start. Will give a secure fixing for the detachable keel and also act a a wear strip.
The figure came from eBay - unpainted - is 1/24th scale. Hopefully help guide the build - he's currently having a break and cup of tea !
A strip of 3mm thick brass section has been fixed to the keel, using screws and West Epoxy, this has also been drilled for the detachable keel. This brass strip should have been fitted first but will provide a wear strip, add weight to the bottom of the boat and provide a rigid fixing for the keel.
Have started the planking, these are made from 1.5 mm plywood and initially glued using "super glue" - a coating of glass fibre tissue and West Epoxy will be applied to the inside afterwards. There is a need to steam the planks, especially at the bow.
The hull is still fixed to the baseboard. Think I'll plank up to the chine line and then turn the boat over.
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A strip of 3mm thick brass section has been fixed to the keel, using screws and West Epoxy, this has also been drilled for the detachable keel. This brass strip should have been fitted first but will provide a wear strip, add weight to the bottom of the boat and provide a rigid fixing for the keel.
Have started the planking, these are made from 1.5 mm plywood and initially glued using "super glue" - a coating of glass fibre tissue and West Epoxy will be applied to the inside afterwards. There is a need to steam the planks, especially at the bow.
The hull is still fixed to the baseboard. Think I'll plank up to the chine line and then turn the boat over.
Made some slow progress - the sides were fitted before the final planking as it made the clamping easier.
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In the areas which were planked, there was a need for a little filler - Isopon 38 - and then some sanding. I had first used a layer of glass fibre tissue and West Epoxy on the inside of the planked areas - improve the strength and ensure it was water tight.
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In the areas which were planked, there was a need for a little filler - Isopon 38 - and then some sanding. I had first used a layer of glass fibre tissue and West Epoxy on the inside of the planked areas - improve the strength and ensure it was water tight.
Although it looks a bit "rough" - it is actually quite smooth and the shape is good. The underside of the hull has had two coats of thinned varnish. Although the next task is to make the rudder and lee boards - am thinking about how to make the vertical rails which go round the deck - although this task is along way off.
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Although it looks a bit "rough" - it is actually quite smooth and the shape is good. The underside of the hull has had two coats of thinned varnish. Although the next task is to make the rudder and lee boards - am thinking about how to make the vertical rails which go round the deck - although this task is along way off.
The crew has arrived - alas there is no boat ready for them to sail !
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@AndyB2
Andy, this is really coming together beautifully.
The hull may look a little rough at this stage, but the lines and overall shape look excellent, and your explanation of the glass fibre and West System epoxy on the inside makes perfect sense. That should give you a very strong and watertight hull.
I especially like seeing the progression from the initial side planking through the sanding and now the stern and gunwales.
There’s something very satisfying about watching a hull gradually emerge from all those individual pieces of wood.
Excellent work and a great build log.
I’ll be following along to see how you tackle those vertical rails when the time comes! 👍
I’m hoping, that by keeping the boat fixed to the building board will avoid any “twist” in the hull.
How many servos did you use? Did you have one for the “vang” as shown in the video?
I’ve still to think about how to control the jibs. Would be nice to use another servo but feel that’s not normally done.