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    Renovating my Aerokits Patrol Torpedo Boat.
    by MouldBuilder πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ ( Sub-Lieutenant)
    πŸ“£










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    πŸ“ Rebuild starts
    1 year ago by MouldBuilder ( Sub-Lieutenant)
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    Well it has been a while but I can now continue with the renovation.
    I have purchased most of the weaponry from Battlecraft and I must say that I am impressed with the quality. I will add pictures of these later in the build.
    I have started to prime all of the wood. Removal of the final areas of the original paint was a task but I got there in the end. I have applied sanding sealer and rubbed it down with 1000 grit wet and dry. it is starting to look and feel quite smooth.
    Have you built the 50cal guns yet Doug? I would like to buy some but I am concerned that they might be a little brittle for me to handle.πŸ€”
    Just a couple of questions to ask before I get on. Can I have suggestions as to who supplies good quality wooden kits to build at reasonable prices. I need to consider my next project.
    I want to buy a 0.8mm air brush for the larger areas as I am finding 0.5mm too small. I have my eyes on an Iwata HP-EP. This is for sale on ebay new at Β£122. Are there any suggestions for a better and or cheaper solution.
    Thanks.πŸ€“

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    πŸ’¬ Rebuild starts
    1 year ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Evening Peter,
    I can confirm that the Shapeways 50 cal sets are very brittle, at 1/35 very filigree and fragile.
    I haven't built them yet, just trial fitted the carriages in the gun tubs, whereby I discovered that they are a tick smaller diameter than the tubs😲
    So they are on the back burner until I have the hull and propulsion finished.
    Which will itself have to wait while I finish the hull renovation / conversion of my ancient Billing Boats fish cutter.

    Re: Airbrush: why the hell waste over a hundred quid buying another?
    Just buy a selection of needles and jets for the one you have.
    Mine came with a range from 0.3 to 0.8mm.
    Seem to remember remarking that 0.5 is too small for hull spraying!
    I'll only charge 50 quid for the advice and you've still saved 50!! 😁😁😁
    Re next project: I reserve judgement, until I see one of the current projects afloat! πŸ˜‰
    Whatever, have fun with it, Cheers, Doug 😎

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    1 year ago by MouldBuilder ( Sub-Lieutenant)
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    Hi Doug.
    Iwata do not do a 0.8mm nozzle for my air brush.
    I will look into whether my other cheap one can be altered.😊

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    πŸ’¬ Rebuild starts
    1 year ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Mornin Peter,
    That's probably your best betπŸ‘
    I find it convenient to use my cheaper single action airbrush with a 0.8 nozzle / needle setup for larger stuff like hulls, and keep the more sophisticated dual action set with a 0.5 (very occasionally 0.3) for detail work or the smaller 1/350 ships.
    For the latter rattle cans are of course totally useless, but the scale is just to big for decent brush painting (for me anyway😲)
    Saves having to fiddle about changing the setup so oftenπŸ˜‰
    Happy spraying, cheers, Doug 😎

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    πŸ’¬ Rebuild starts
    1 year ago by MouldBuilder ( Sub-Lieutenant)
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    Now that the primer coat is on throughout, does anybody have any ideas as to how I can mount the new out-runner motor I have bought for this model. is there an adjustable mounting bracket on the market I can buy or is it make it myself. Does anybody have pictures of suitable mounts to give me ideas as to how to proceed.
    Thanks.😊

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    1 year ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Hi Peter, see attached pic for adjustable mount suitable for 400-480 size motors!
    I have one, but only used it to scan the parts so I can scale it for various size motors! πŸ˜‰
    If the size is right for your motor buy one from Krick, delivery always within 3 to 5 days. otherwise scale the pic to the size you want, print it and use it for a template to make your own. Cheers, Doug 😎

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    1 year ago by MouldBuilder ( Sub-Lieutenant)
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    Hi Doug.
    Thanks for the design. it looks really good and very adjustable. I have bought a 1485 brushless motor for the rebuild. A bit of a beast so I hope not too much.
    I think this is a lot more powerful than a 480 so do you think 8 or 10mm ply for the mount.
    Thanks.πŸ€“

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    1 year ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Hi Peter,
    I wouldn't use ply at all.😲 Especially not for a powerful brushless.
    I only bought the Krick adjustable mount so I could scan it and then make my own from 2 or 3mm aluminium, depending on how heavy and powerful the motor is. I will never use the original wooden one. it was just a 'means to an end' 😁
    Cheers, Doug 😎

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    1 year ago by MouldBuilder ( Sub-Lieutenant)
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    I was hoping to get some help. I am considering changing the prop shaft for a much stronger one. I am concerned that the existing 35 year old unit with plastic bearings might not stand up well to the new 1485 motor running at 22,000 rpm potentially, I think.πŸ€“ is there a method to removing old shafts without damaging the hull.
    If this is thought to be a viable proposition, please could I have recommendations for a 13" shaft with suitable bearings.
    Thanks. Peter.πŸ˜‰

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    1 year ago by Colin H ( Commander)
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    Is it possible to fit new bearings in the existing shaft tube, if not I have managed to get old shafts out by carefully heating the tube using a soldering iron inserted into the end and as it heats up applying rotational force gently back and forth until the the glue gives way. This has worked for me on wooden hulls.
    Cheers Colin.

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    1 year ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
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    I agree Colin, only I used a mini gas torch on it's smallest flame, with a damp cloth between the tube and boat and the flame angled away from the boat! twisted with mole grips and a sharp tap on the end with a tack hammer. Nothing too heavy!😲
    Peter; take a butchers in the Raboesch catalogue for shaft tubes with real bearings. Sold by Cornwall Model boats and others.
    Otherwise knock the old bearings out using the old shaft and make / buy new bushes. Preferably sintered phosphor-bronze. The sintered metal absorbs and traps oil 😊
    Cheers, Doug 😎

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    1 year ago by MouldBuilder ( Sub-Lieutenant)
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    Thanks Colin and Doug. I will give it a go.
    Thanks for the shaft information Doug. is the length given for the assembly the length of the shaft or tube.
    Thanks again.πŸ˜‰

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    1 year ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Hi Pete,
    The tables and dim drawings in the catalogue give both.
    Cheers,
    Doug

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    12 months ago by MouldBuilder ( Sub-Lieutenant)
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    Thanks Doug. Finally made a decision and bought the Raboesch RAB301-09 shaft with ball bearings. it comes in at 450mm but can be reduced to the required 350mm of tube length.πŸ˜‰

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    12 months ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Glad to help Pete 😊
    Don't forget that the tube stops at or just after the hull breakthrough.
    Only the rotating shaft goes back through the A strut bearing to the prop!
    That's the beauty of the Raboesch shaft assemblies, they are easy to shorten to accommodate thisπŸ‘
    Cheers, Doug 😎

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    πŸ“ Renovating my Aerokits Patrol Torpedo Boat.
    2 years ago by MouldBuilder ( Sub-Lieutenant)
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    Started the long job of sanding down today. I think this is going to take a while. During last week I spent the time removing all of the deck parts still attached.
    The motor, rc gear, rudder, batteries and prop shaft have also been removed leaving the basic hull and decking superstructures.
    I have visited my local model shop today to see if I can sort out the paint. I have decided on acrylic but the cans are so small that I would need loads. I also cannot find a suitable red for the hull bottom. I am looking for matt. I was also considering making the main colour Pacific Green or similar. I have found Navy Grey which might have to do.
    If anybody can help with where to source suitable paint in reasonable quantity I would be grateful.
    I have purchased the sanding sealer and primer. I was considering air brushing the whole project but not so sure now. Any thoughts?😁
    I have taken pictures of the progress so far. A lot of sanding still awaits me.😑
    I purchased two Mk 17 gun carriages for the tubs. I cannot believe it but they fit perfectly. A picture of these is also below.
    One last question for now. Should I brush paint, air brush or spray can. The boat is 40" long.
    Another long day of sanding tomorrow but with greater care as I am tackling the skins. I remember how thin these were when I originally constructed the model.πŸ€”

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    πŸ’¬ Sanding down.
    2 years ago by Ray ( Recruit)
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    Hi,
    I like the article it has reactivated my interest in in restoring an old Aerokits P.T. boat hull I was given about five years back it had originally ran with a diesel engine but the hull is sound,there are no upperworks just the hull with no hatch covering so it will be a deck up new build just need to get some plans now,I like the gun mountings where did you purchase those,look forward to further updates.

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    πŸ’¬ Sanding down.
    2 years ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Hi Peter,
    you're right about the sanding down. Take your time and apply a generous Dollop of Patience πŸ˜‰ Any short cuts here will show up all through the painting process πŸ€” See my Sea Scout 'Jessica' renovation blog re hull restoration!! My motto for painting is 'Brush for little fiddly bits, spray for big bits' e.g. hulls.
    I agree model shop spray cans are usually small and relatively expensive for big hull. I use giant cans from the professional suppliers, again see my Sea Scout blog for descriptions and suppliers.
    Also agree about care with the thin skins. After sanding and sealing, with Lord Nelson pore sealer, I reinforced my Sea Scout inside (where I could get to!) and out with DeluxeMaterials EzeKote resin. it's not the cheapest but it's water based, doesn't pong and doesn't need mixing with hardener Brushes just wash out in warm water. Couldn't be easier 😊
    Flat off starting with about 600 or 1000 grit annd work up to 3000 grit and you should end up with a finish like glass - see decks of my Sea Scout😊

    For my ELCO PTB I bought Colour Coats MTB Green (from Sovereign Hobbies in UK) for the darker camo patches and italeri Flat Sky, # 4856, which is almost identical to the lighter Pacific Green for the base coat. After painting and detailing, pennant number and decals and such, I shall seal it all with a matt spray varnish. i use the big Lord Nelson spray cans for that.

    Re Gun Tubs: love the gun carriages but I guess they're much too big for my 28" boat. 😭 BTW: forward gun tub is too far forward. it should be further aft just in front of the screen round the bridge entrance starboard side and should be set half into the forward cabin. Just cut half of the lower section of the tub away on the inboard side to match the cabin height. See pics. You might find this Pinterest site useful for more detailπŸ‘
    https://www.pinterest.de/pin/557039047643301834/
    Register to get full access, it's free and you can get updates for the things that interest you.

    Hi Ray, attached are pdf files of the Aerokits plan. Just scale up to what you need and awaaay you go πŸ˜‰
    Look forward to the BlogπŸ‘
    Cheers Doug 😎
    https://www.pinterest.de/pin/557039047643301834/
    πŸ”—

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    πŸ’¬ Sanding down.
    2 years ago by Ray ( Recruit)
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    The position of the forward gun tub would depend on the years the earlier boats it was further forward then they were moved slightly further aft later on.

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    2 years ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Agree Ray, there were all sorts of variations. But I thought we were talking about a particular version here, as per the Ezebilt plan. πŸ˜‰

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    2 years ago by MouldBuilder ( Sub-Lieutenant)
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    Thanks for all of your help. This is really useful information.
    I think I will leave the camouflage and just keep to the base colour. Would you paint to the waterline in matt red.
    I have looked at the shapeways site and they sell Mk 12 carriages in 1:35 scale which I think yours is at 28" over 80`.
    The gun tub was only placed on the deck for the photo. I have several pictures now showing the correct position. I will alter it and fit just before painting.😊
    Thanks again.
    Peter.πŸ‘

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    2 years ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Evenin' Peter, yep, antifouling red below the water line. The Revell PT109 kit box shows it white but I don't believe that, poetic license?😁
    Many thanks for the Shapeways tipπŸ‘ After a bit of fiddlin' about with the site, curious navigation 😲, I found and order two complete sets, including the ammo belts. At 1/35 total €45.00 including DHL shipping, can't argue with that 😊 Also just downloaded the assembly instructions from Matthews Model Marine. Seems straightforward. Cheers Doug 😎

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    2 years ago by kevinsharpe ( Leading Seaman)
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    Hi
    Halfords do an excellent range in acrylic paints in good size cans, including Matt colors.additionally they will mix a specific color.

    Regards Kevin

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    2 years ago by MouldBuilder ( Sub-Lieutenant)
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    Thanks Kevin.
    A model shop just gave me a good tip. Buy a car screen washer pump for the water cannon on my new project Police boat. They said it would be cheaper than the model pump. Halfords next place to visit.
    Glad I could be of help Doug. I have bought the 50cal. guns to match the carriages. The assembly instructions are available on the site. Still worried about breaking them whilst removing them from the sprue.πŸ€”I am a precision engineer but this still fills me with nerves.😱

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    2 years ago by Colin H ( Commander)
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    Hi MouldBuilder, I have been using a car window washer pump for about 15 years in my fire boat with out problems. Sourced mine from local scrap yard, cost me 50p for two, second went into another boat 2 years ago. Both boats running on 9.6 volt nicads.
    Cheers Colin.

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    2 years ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Evenin' Peter, I downloaded the instructions and the designer warns against using side cutters to cut from the sprues, as one is used to with more robust polystyrene. he recommends a razor saw.
    I still think you should at least spray the hull, but it's your boat so 'If it feels good - do it' πŸ˜‰
    Ciao, Doug 😎
    PS: My 50 cals + ammo belts should be here on Friday or Saturday. Wish me luck with the sprues and bullets at 1/35, even more fragile than yours 😲

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    2 years ago by MouldBuilder ( Sub-Lieutenant)
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    Thanks Colin. Sounds even better.
    I will be spraying the whole boat Doug. All I don`t think I will do is the different camouflage colours. I will do the botton in antifoul red with a close match of Pacific green for the rest.
    Good luck with the removal of the brittle parts. I will not be tackling mine for some time as I have so much other work to do first. I will be watching your blogs with great interest.
    😱

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    2 years ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Thanks to you too Peter πŸ‘ Will be watching your progress also with interest.
    As you have an airbrush you can buy concentrated paint of the exact specific colour you want, don't have to rely on 'well it looks similar' from spray cans, and you will have much more control over spray area and shape, overspray and above all an even spray pressure. Compressor with air tank highly recommended for the latter πŸ˜‰
    I'm collecting the bits and paints for my ELCO PT Boat but I'm determined to finish the restoration / upgrade of Dad's old Sea Scout first. I hope he's looking down and is happy with what I've done with his boat up to now.
    Spent yesterday making a mahogany aft deck / hatch and sub-frame for it. Now more sanding and varnishing!! Happy painting, Doug 😎PS: before you start with the colour coats on your boat I can highly recommend that you apply a coat or two of primer / filler, not just the thin normal primers.
    White primer would be better under the light Pacific Green and grey under the antifouling red. πŸ˜‰

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    2 years ago by MouldBuilder ( Sub-Lieutenant)
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    Thanks Doug. I bought some primer but can use on another project. I will find the filler primer recommended. I bought sanding sealer also for when I am happy with the preperation.
    I have a 24litre tank compressor and special regulator and moisture bottle in the line. I also bought a second airbrush with a slightly larger jet.
    I know that you are in Germany, but would I find the acrylic paint in large quantities in a decorating shop? Professional paint outlet? Seen tiny pots in the modelling shop but I would need loads of those.
    😊

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    2 years ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Hi Peter, wow 24 ltr tank 😲 mine's only about 10max I think.
    Yep regulator and oil / water strippers are indispensable for best results πŸ‘
    Sounds like you have a nice setup there. Mine is the Revell Master Class with all the trimmings so sort of semi-pro πŸ˜‰
    I also have two 'guns' (one single action and one double action) for large and small quantities and a variety of needles and jets from fine line (without the guts to test it yet😁) to large areas like hulls.

    If you go to a DIY place that the pros also go to (Building Supplies?) you should find acrylics in half and 1ltr cans.
    For my 'grey ladies' (up to 1.5m long) I use the 1/2 ltr cans of RAL standard colours, e.g. RAL 1001 is medium navy grey, RAL 7035 is a lighter grey more like the RN hull colour. 1/2 litre thinned to the consistency of milk (low fatπŸ˜‰) does a lot of hulls and you don't want it to harden in the can do you! 😑
    A good shop should be able to mix any colour you want. Take the paint chart with you and the mixer should be able to look up the mix code on a computer. if he hasn't got one - go somewhere else!!
    You should also find the primer filler there (usually only grey I'm afraid), if not go to a pro car supplies shop - you'll find the Protection Lacquer there as well.
    Cheers Doug 😎

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    2 years ago by jarvo ( Lieutenant)
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    Hi Peter, if you have a car paint suppliers in your area, they do pro' sizes of paint, also can colour match, sanding sheets in pro' packs, and filler in larger sizes, all a lot cheaper than Halfords etc.

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    2 years ago by MouldBuilder ( Sub-Lieutenant)
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    Thanks Jarvo and Doug. I will have a look around. I think there is a place nearby. I will ask my friends who run a garage opposite to my factory.😊
    I will have to take some boat pictures with me for a colour match.
    Sanding to complete today, I hope, and then preperation for sanding sealer and my newly peuchased primer filler. Lots of work ahead.
    I bought another easy kit to do so I will start a second build blog soon. This one is a Police Launch with an ABS hull. The hope is that I can do both projects at the same time. Doing two things at once is not usually good for me.
    I have got the urge to get a boat onto my river as soon as possible. I just bought a cheap twin hull offshore power boat to keep me going.I go to Hungary in a few weeks so will send it there to try. I will video the test as it will be the first time in years since I sailed a boat, but a first for one capable of this sort of speed.😱
    I will post pictures when I finally remove all of the paint from the MTB.
    I really appreciate all of the help given. it removes the trial and error which can be costly. Thanks.😊

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    πŸ’¬ Sanding down.
    2 years ago by MouldBuilder ( Sub-Lieutenant)
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    I would like your opinions please.
    I would like to paint the main deck and sides green and the anti fouling red. in my opinion, the best matches are RAL6020 for the green and RAL3007 for the red. it has taken me hours to come up with these but I would like second, third and fourth opinions.
    I have included a sample picture I found on a Google Image search.
    Thanks.😊

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    2 years ago by MouldBuilder ( Sub-Lieutenant)
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    I had the colours mixed but unfortunately I could only get 2.5 litres of each. Enough for 100 boats I think. πŸ€“
    I will start the spraying when the weather warms up a bit. That leaves me time to start on my new Police Launch project. Oh and launch and test my new twin hulled offshore power boat.😱

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    πŸ“ Renovating my Aerokits Patrol Torpedo Boat.
    2 years ago by MouldBuilder ( Sub-Lieutenant)
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    I built this Aerokits Patrol Torpedo boat over about ten years and finished, as I found painted under one of the life rafts, in 1993. I sailed it at my local pond and all went very well. The only problem I had was the speed. it was quite slow. The MFA brushed motor was strong but slow.
    I have received a lot of help so far on this site for which I am grateful. I have decided to do a complete renovation which is scheduled to be completed whenever. I work all day so can only spend limited time doing this. We will see how it goes. I must admit that I am not too concerned with the result being authentic to the prototype. if it looks good and I like it, that`s good. Sorry if you like things to be perfect to the original.
    If you see something I plan to do which you feel can be tackled differently, please shout. I may not always follow advice but I will always listen.
    I have attached a few pictures of the boat as it is for reference. it`s still not too bad for 35 years old. Just in case you notice, I have no idea as to why I thought it was a good idea to block the Captains view with a gun tub.😱
    I will be stripping the deck back to bare bones soon so will post more soon.
    Thanks for looking and in advance for all the help that I am sure is just around the corner😊

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    πŸ’¬ Renovating my Aerokits Patrol Torpedo Boat.
    2 years ago by dennisw ( Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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    I would change motor to a brushless motor & speedcontroler-see aerokit web site

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    πŸ’¬ Renovating my Aerokits Patrol Torpedo Boat.
    2 years ago by dennisw ( Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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    see build blogs on this web site πŸ‘ ignore my last blog about aerokit site.

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    πŸ’¬ Renovating my Aerokits Patrol Torpedo Boat.
    2 years ago by MouldBuilder ( Sub-Lieutenant)
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    Hi Dennis.
    I have already purchased a brushless motor which will improve the performance significantly, I hope. One of my concerns for this change was whether the prop shaft could handle the four fold increase in RPM. The shaft is around 12" long. I am considering whether to make a nylon/acetal bush and push it up the shaft approximately half way to try to eliminate shaft whip should it occur. is this thought to be necessary or am I concerned about nothing.😊

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    πŸ’¬ Renovating my Aerokits Patrol Torpedo Boat.
    2 years ago by dennisw ( Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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    Hi mouldbuilder.
    I have never had any problems using stainless shafts you may need a oiling point if using a long time.
    check this web site.

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    πŸ’¬ Renovating my Aerokits Patrol Torpedo Boat.
    2 years ago by BOATSHED ( Warrant Officer)
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    You say the MFA motor was strong but slow ?? Have you tried changing the prop and trying different sizes. I put a 4 bladed on a small version of a Crash Tender that I have built and it was a failure, I have since changed it to a smaller 3 bladed prop and it is better but now have 3 different sizes to change to and see if they perform better. I know they are not cheap., all 3 came to just over Β£35 but the first one I tried made a very big difference. You could even try smaller nylon props as they are a lot cheaper. I know they do not look authentic but when on the water they cannot be seen. if you have her on display at home you can always change the prop back to the nice brass one just for show.

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    πŸ’¬ Renovating my Aerokits Patrol Torpedo Boat.
    2 years ago by MouldBuilder ( Sub-Lieutenant)
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    Thanks Boatshed.
    I have now purchased a brushless motor which I am making a mount for. I have a feeling that the lack of speed will be dramatically improved. I hope the hull will stand up to this dramatic improvement in power.😊

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    πŸ’¬ Renovating my Aerokits Patrol Torpedo Boat.
    2 years ago by BOATSHED ( Warrant Officer)
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    Brushless motors are fantastic, but you mat still find that prop will not be workable with a brushless. You may still need to experiment with props of different types and sizes. Unless you find someone with the same power set up and they can tell you the prop size that it works well with. I even found that rudder sizes made a difference on how the boat performed on the water. They can act as a brake and even cause the boat ti dig in on turning. Any way good luck and happy boating.

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    πŸ’¬ Renovating my Aerokits Patrol Torpedo Boat.
    1 year ago by boaty ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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    I had an MFA Spearfish in the mid 1990s and it was powered by an MFA Marlin or should I say underpowered. The Marlin was a good motor but was not really suitable for fast craft such as a powerboat or fast service launch like an M.T.B. I understand that MFA did an 850 which was for fast scale type models but in the end I put an Irvine 25 I.C in the Spearfish. At the time there was a motor called a Buhler which I think was Swiss . I used one😁 in my Perkassa running on nicads which performed very well.
    For the Aerokits P.T boat there are a lot of suitable brushless motors around and running on lipos will certainly give you all the speed you want.😁 Boaty

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