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    H.M.S BRAVE BORDERER
    by RHBaker πŸ‡¨πŸ‡¦ ( Lieutenant)
    πŸ“£










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    29 Posts 117 Comments 54 Photos 140 Likes
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    πŸ“ BLOG 29
    2 months ago by RHBaker ( Lieutenant)
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    Spoke a little too soon!

    Had used 3 x 40A glass fuses in a ganged fuse holder to fuse each motor circuit and then use the extra fuse holder for the accessories. The centre motor has a consistently high fuse consumption so was concerned that if a fuse failed, the redundancy of the installation would be compromised. The outer motors did not fail fuses (different style of motors).

    A fellow modeler, who is an Electronics Engineer suggested using Automotive style blade fuses instead of the glass style. Blade fuses have a β€œslower-blow” failure characteristic. Suspected the fuse failures were being caused by high current peaks, not by a steady operating current. This modification could confirm that.

    Decided to purchase a 6 blade fuse holder from Banggood, but try a 30A blade fuse in each motor circuit. The three extra fused circuits would operate the cooling pump, ESC control and accessory circuits at much current lower levels. If necessary, blade fuses can also be obtained in up to 100A capacity. Whereas glass seem to have a maximum of 40A.

    On what is probably our last sailing day of the season decided to try this new layout. Over about 35 minutes of operation did not experience any fuse issues. She worked flawlessly.
    The boat will also plane comfortably on either the wing motors or the centre.
    Because of the small pond was not able to maintain top speed using all three motors for more that a few seconds, but am confident a scale 50knts is now obtainable. Task for the Spring.
    An added bonus, evident from the pictures, is this new arrangement allowed a simpler, cleaner wiring installation.
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    πŸ’¬ Re: BLOG 29
    1 day ago by ToraDog ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    I like using fuses for my installations, but the limitations that occur should the drive train fuses blow had always concerned my. Black Shoes introduced me, a while back, to automotive auto reset breakers that plug right into a fuse slot. The blow slow but reset after a cool down period, maybe 20 seconds, and allow an attempt to recover my boat. Over here they are available in difference current ratings, usually an appropriate one will fit the drive train.
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    πŸ’¬ Re: BLOG 29
    2 months ago by Roadster700 ( Recruit)
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    I use Self Resetting Thermal Trips in my boats, as I know the most likely place that a stick or something will get sucked in to the props is when it's right in the middle of the Lake Heading for the wier.
    I get them from Ebay and solder them in to the motor output lines from the ESC. Using them stops frying everything. I normally use 5Amp, or 7Amp Trips (eg. Ebay 163850151824). I use a BEC ESC to power the radio gear and by having the trips in the outputs means I still have steering, and the other motors to get the boat out of trouble. I would like to say I fuse stuff like lights, but don't always. I all ways srinkwrap any joints, and touch wood there's never been a problem. They also sell trip that have a reset button but then you have to get the boat back to reset them. I found the trips I use have saved my models. BTW This reminds me of a joke an electrician friend of mine told me. "Do you know the reason why they put a covering on wires? It's to keep the Smoke in". πŸ˜‚
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    πŸ“ Brave Borderer
    4 months ago by RHBaker ( Lieutenant)
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    Blog # 28

    Used the Brave many times this summer and have made some significant upgrades.
    The original Turnigy (Hobbyking) ESCs both burned out - the smell still lingers beneath the deck! Both were rated at 30A and were protected by 30 A fuses, exceeding the measured maximum current draw.

    Have now had too many Turnigy ESC issues, so decided to replace the penultimate failure with an inexpensive Banggood water cooled ESC of the same rating. It had been previously purchased for another project.
    After several frustrating hours trying to program it through a series of beeps got it to work as desired.
    Was amazed at the difference! This ESC provides good low speed modulation and control throughout the motor speed range.

    The second Turnigy ESC then failed, so immediately replaced it with a similar Banggood one – this also works fine!
    Have used the model with these new ESCs for many hours and am pleased with their performance.

    One of my friends has a GPS speed tracker, so could measure how fast the model actually goes. The max scale speed only equates to 37 knots - well below the 50 + a Brave could achieve! Nevertheless it still planes easily and looks great.

    As the low speed control is so vastly improved, decided to replace the centre shaft brushed motor with an inrunner brushless purchased earlier. This should improve performance, perhaps even achieve the scale 50 knots!
    The drivetrain layout would also replicate the actual vessel, where the wing engines can be used for manoeuvring and the centre to supplement them in higher speed situations.

    Bought and fitted another Banggood ESC, to this same spec. However, this one came preprogrammed with usable default settings, no beeps to decipher!
    Works fine and the performance has increased markedly; will get around to measuring it one day, maybe in the Spring as the weather has turned noticeably colder.
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    πŸ“ H.M.S BRAVE BORDERER
    2 years ago by RHBaker ( Lieutenant)
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    The weather has finally cooperated and have had one good outing at a local lake. The performance is consistent with the previous blog, however, observed over a much greater distance.
    At full speed on all motors the plane exposes more keel than pictures of the real vessel; but the throttle can be reduced to slow the model and lower the bow. The centre shaft performance is adequate, which helps maneuvering and also serves as a β€œget home” back-up.
    The pictures show the model at full speed with all shafts turning and at full centre shaft speed only. The brief video shows the model at full speed and then slowing as the outer shafts are stopped.
    On 1 x 4500mAh 3S battery, life is around one hour at a mixture of speeds; with both single and three shafts operating.
    In summary a great project, one that has proved both challenging and satisfying.
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    πŸ’¬ Re: H.M.S BRAVE BORDERER
    2 years ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Odd Rowen, I can find Blog 26 but not 27!? ☹️😭
    Doug
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    πŸ’¬ Re: H.M.S BRAVE BORDERER
    2 years ago by jbkiwi ( Admiral)
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    Looks great Rowan, running nicely, and a good rooster tail as well !
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    πŸ’¬ Re: H.M.S BRAVE BORDERER
    2 years ago by RHBaker ( Lieutenant)
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    If the video does not link, it can be found on UTube under Brave Borderer blog 27
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    πŸ“ H.M.S. BRAVE BORDERER
    2 years ago by RHBaker ( Lieutenant)
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    Did more testing and then reprogrammed the ESCs and Rx. These changes allowed the removal of the brushless motor selection circuitry and improved the tractability of the system.
    As the videos show, a plane can be achieved with both 2S and 3S batteries. With the 3S the plane is flatter and faster. Suspect this is due to the increased vertical component of the propeller thrust forcing the rear of the vessel upwards, lifting it and lowering the bow. Of the two, the 3S resembles the original vessel pictures more closely, the bow lifts too far high with the 2S.
    The videos show the vessel in motion. The first shows a run with 2S batteries, the next two show similar runs with 3S.
    Just found cannot upload three videos on one blog. Anyway, they can all be seen on UTube under 'Brave Borderer blog'.
    Anticipate further refining of the powertrain with a future running, but doubt any significant improvements will be achieved. Performance is great anyway and am very happy with it.
    This will be the concluding post for this model.

    batteries
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    πŸ’¬ Re: H.M.S. BRAVE BORDERER
    2 years ago by RHBaker ( Lieutenant)
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    Would agree to an extent.
    The 3S though allows the motor speed to be reduced so the plane can be controlled. Either way after all the challenges she produced last year am happy with the outcome.
    My next project is a model of one of the R.A.F. SEAL class, a LRRC which was the last launch used before the R.A.F. Marine branch was closed.
    Just completed the hull sailing trials so will shelve project until next winter. Will eventually write a blog on it.
    Really like your Fairmile and am very tempted to build one of those further down the line.
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    πŸ’¬ Re: H.M.S. BRAVE BORDERER
    2 years ago by RHBaker ( Lieutenant)
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    Doug,
    Later meant the second or third address which obliterated the preceding one. Anyway,
    will try your suggestion next time I post several videos.
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    πŸ’¬ Re: H.M.S. BRAVE BORDERER
    2 years ago by jbkiwi ( Admiral)
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    Checked out your You Tube vids Rowen, and she's looking nice on the water. I think she is riding more steadily and scale like on the 2s than the 3s. On the 3s flat out she's lifting too much in the stern and digging the bow in on the turn and leaning out plus getting a bit of torque roll (mind you you can always reduce throttle and get a better run time). Will be nice to see vid on a bigger pond. Now that's finished, what's next on the board ?
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    πŸ’¬ Re: H.M.S. BRAVE BORDERER
    2 years ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Hmm! Don't understand what you mean there with 'later address' πŸ€”
    So let's try my Sea Scout links and see what happens.
    (I had taken the precaution of saving the links into a text file πŸ˜‰)
    So here's what I saved last year.

    "Sea Scout trials, Ostpark Munich, 28th May 2018.

    Pt1:
    https://youtu.be/b0BWJ3duzDw
    First run with a 3S LiPo
    Pt2:
    https://youtu.be/oMUlSOaAREM
    'The competition'!

    Pt3:
    https://youtu.be/zPgYicA0yGw
    'Final run', the Bier was getting warm."

    I find that URL links work best on this site when they stand alone on a separate line, no other characters in the same line.

    Cheers, Doug 😎
    PS: Seems to work OK 😊
    https://youtu.be/b0BWJ3duzDw
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    https://youtu.be/oMUlSOaAREM
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    https://youtu.be/zPgYicA0yGw
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    πŸ’¬ Re: H.M.S. BRAVE BORDERER
    2 years ago by RHBaker ( Lieutenant)
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    Thanks Doug,
    I tried that, but the later address superseded the and obliterated the earlier.
    Anyway,our experiences seem very similar. Have decided to "standardize" on the 3S. The performance is clearly superior.
    Will get a longer video on a much larger lake shortly and will post.
    Rowen
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    πŸ’¬ Re: H.M.S. BRAVE BORDERER
    2 years ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Hi Rowen,
    simplest way with the videos is to copy the YouTube web links into your post.
    Like I did with the three vids of my Sea Scout trials.
    Then we can view them simply by clicking on the links. Or copying them into our browser.
    Your results with the 2S and 3S are similar to my experience with the smaller Sea Scout πŸ‘
    Cheers, Doug 😎
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    πŸ“ H.M.S BRAVE BORDERER
    2 years ago by RHBaker ( Lieutenant)
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    After the trials, tribulations, experiments and frustration, can finally announce this model is sailing well. It has excellent performance and looks, both on and off the water. A build really for the more experienced modeller though. If the performance envelope is to be explored it should be done on a suitably large area of water with few other vessels around.
    However, enjoyed building a model of an unusual class of vessels. It expanded my knowledge and skills, then kept me occupied throughout a Canadian winter!
    Have also been lucky to have received considerable useful advice from other modellers, which was much appreciated.
    Building from scratch off a proprietary glass fibre hull gives a robust model with plenty of opportunity for individual input. Intend to use this approach again.
    Whilst am rather blinkered about building scale models to scale; considerable frustration, time and money could have been saved by using a single or even a twin screw layout, rather than the triple. Performance might also have been further improved and weight saved. Several of the U Tube videos of the similar Perkasa models show how well these layouts work.
    There are several photos attached;
    1) Stationary.
    2) Max. speed using the centre screw brushed motor and then the outer brushless screws on the 2S battery
    3) Max. speed using the centre screw brushed motor and then the outer brushless screws on the 3S battery.
    Because the pond is small, was unable to capture the marked differences in performance between the 2 and 3 S batteries. It will plane easily on either, just rather more frenetically on the 3!. Suspect this was because of the difficulty in coordinating acceleration, photographer and deceleration. Will endeavour to get pictures and a video that make this more obvious and post when available.

    models
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    πŸ’¬ Re: H.M.S BRAVE BORDERER
    2 years ago by jbkiwi ( Admiral)
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    Looking fantastic Rowen, looks like she's all sorted. Can't wait for the video. Nice job. John b
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    πŸ’¬ Re: H.M.S BRAVE BORDERER
    2 years ago by Martin555 ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Very nice, well done.
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    πŸ’¬ Re: H.M.S BRAVE BORDERER
    2 years ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
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    BRAVO ZULU, well done that man πŸ‘
    "Suspect this was because of the difficulty in coordinating acceleration, photographer and deceleration."
    Practise makes perfect Rowen, esp. for the camera 'person'!

    An altogether very nice job Sir πŸ‘πŸ‘πŸ‘
    Looking forward to the video very much.
    Cheers, Doug 😎
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    πŸ“ HMS BRAVE BORDERER
    2 years ago by RHBaker ( Lieutenant)
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    Getting ready for the maiden voyage after the extensive winter upgrade and stumbled across an article on programming Hobbyking ESCs.
    Have always been concerned about the β€œstuttering” of the brushless motors. This is more correctly identified as β€œcogging”, often caused by incorrect motor timing. Changed the timing to β€œAutomatic” from the incorrect previous setting, which was for inrunner motors not outrunners. Now much smoother acceleration from neutral to full speed.
    On the water, first, the brushed motor centre screw concept works well. It allows controllable maneuvering and powers the model nicely in a displacement mode. No planning, but with a reasonable bow wave. The model weight is a little high, as she rides towards the top of the boot topping.
    Tried the brushless outer screws and realized my efforts to β€œdetune” the motors were overdone. The model performance was adequate, but still had difficulty in getting both motors to run consistently and smoothly. Think the water drag was slowing the motors more that expected as they had worked satisfactory on the bench.
    Adjusted the ESC output back to 100% - much better. After 45 minutes of running the battery alarm came on, curtailing trials. She planes very much as the real vessel did, lifting the forefoot clearly out of the water. Had a spare battery, but 3S not 2. Was apprehensive about the increased power this would bring, but as the model was operating satisfactorily decided to try it.
    Better still! Motors now work consistently smoothly and in concert throughout the throttle range.
    The top speed exceeds any picture I have seen of the Brave class though. Can readily get a third of the hull out of the water.
    Will conduct more trails, but need a larger pond to give time to experiment with the various control settings. Hope to post a concluding blog with pictures shortly.

    Hobbyking ESCs
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    πŸ’¬ Re: HMS BRAVE BORDERER
    2 years ago by jbkiwi ( Admiral)
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    Bit of torque roll there Doug, skipper might need moving to the starboard seat. Skipper hasn't been on the Schnapps by any chance? -re failure to give way (starboard rule) and collision with tubby yellow boat. A smaller prop might lessen the roll, plus trim tab, and as you mentioned, spray rails. Sounded like the tunefull scream of a 28mm out-runner? I had one in my 36"Maiami with a 25mm 3 blade which did a similar speed to your Scout (with no torque roll) but I temporarily put it back to brushed as I couldn't stand the noise. Also it was useless for on board videos for obvious reasons. Smaller props plus high rev capability give much nicer slow speed control, John B

    blade
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    πŸ’¬ Re: HMS BRAVE BORDERER
    2 years ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Pics pics pics !! Even better a vid of the trials please Rowen.
    Your results with the 2S vs 3S mirror mine with my Sea Scout trials last year.
    2S was adequate to sedate. 3S turned her into a sport fishing boat πŸ˜€
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b0BWJ3duzDw&feature=youtu.be
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zPgYicA0yGw
    I didn't argue πŸ˜‰
    You can always limit the throttle at the TX again, or restrain your thumb!!🀣
    Cheers, Doug 😎
    PS After my vid this popped up on You Tube . Spruce Goose lives! Magnificent.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VgJkfPWyH_E
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b0BWJ3duzDw&feature=youtu.be
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    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zPgYicA0yGw
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    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VgJkfPWyH_E
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    πŸ“ Brave Borderer
    2 years ago by RHBaker ( Lieutenant)
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    During our protracted wait for Spring, have had chance to reflect on the earlier tribulations with the brushless motor installation. My enthusiasm was sparked by an article on getting the best from your Tx in a magazine and the advantages of using the Elevon or V Tail facilities if available.
    My Flysky Rx/Tx has this facility, so after some experiments, set the boat up to use the Elevon function. This puts both motor ESCs on the same control lever, so advancing the control accelerates both screws equally and moving to either side accelerates, or slows the appropriate motor. Think this will reduce the coordination previously required to sail in a straight line.
    Fresh from that success decided to experiment further. The Tx allows reducing Servo throw, so tried that too so could reduce the max. ESC output, it also seems to work.
    One problem with the original layout was that if the forward speed was reduced quickly it was very easy to move the lever through the neutral point, overshooting into reverse. This immediately reversed that motor causing erratic operation. The Tx also has a β€œDual Rate” facility to adjust the lever response from linear to various alternate rates. This allows the neutral point zone to be increased, so the tendency to overshoot into reverse is reduced. Bench tests of these adjustments suggest the model will be easier to operate. Hope they will make controlling the models performance better in our closest pool, which is quite small.
    A further precaution to prevent inadvertent operation of the brushless motors when using the centre, brushed one, was to add two small relays; one into each of the white ESC signal wires. This allows a another channel on the Tx to be used to select, or deselect the brushless motors.
    Anticipate that by turning this channel and thus the brushless ESCs off, manoeuvring can be accomplished without the operation being overwhelmed by a brushed motor inadvertently being operated.
    My patience for Spring is getting thinner!

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    πŸ’¬ Brave Borderer
    2 years ago by RHBaker ( Lieutenant)
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    Canabus,
    Hope this helps,
    Rowen

    Using the FS-I6X instruction Manual, dated 8/10/2018.
    This Tx allows infinite experimenting with the various control functions and ultimately reverting to factory settings if dissatisfied with results.
    After several attempts at setting the ELEVON function (V-TAIL could be similar, but the Tx channels would be different), decided this works best for me. it puts both brushless ESCs on the RH control lever. Moving it up operates both screws in the forward direction and down into reverse. Going from side to side speeds up or slows down the motors, so the boat goes in the direction the lever dictates. This was accomplished by:
    1) Page 14/57 Establish the Tx Stick mode, mine was # 2.
    2) Considering ELEVON, need to determine which layout allows the Aileron and Elevator controls to be operated by same lever.
    3) Use Elevator for throttle (fwd & astern) and Aileron to β€œturn”. The Aileron will accelerate the motor on the outside of a turn.
    4) Plug Port & Starboard motor ESCs into channels 1 & 2 respectively.
    5) Refer to Para 5.10 and set Elevon mode on Tx.
    6) Use channel 4 (LH lever side to side) for rudder and Channel 3 (LH lever up / down) for any other function needing proportional control. I am using it for the centre brushed motor.
    This means that my control levers, which had previously had throttle on the LH lever and rudder on the right are now totally changed.
    There is also an article in the March edition of Model Boats that explains the concept.

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    πŸ’¬ Brave Borderer
    2 years ago by RHBaker ( Lieutenant)
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    Canobus,
    Have not done a circuit diagram yet, but can explain the Tx settings. if that will suffice can write something up shortly. The instructions are fairly sketchy.

    circuit
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    πŸ’¬ Brave Borderer
    2 years ago by canabus ( Midshipman)
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    Hi
    Would you please post how you set it up please.

    I have both the Flysky and Turnigy units(same thing only a name change) and would like to add this into a plan build.

    Canabus

    turnigy
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    πŸ“ HMS BRAVE BORDERER
    2 years ago by RHBaker ( Lieutenant)
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    Winter seems to encourage modeling, have spent many hours in hibernation working on the deck and superstructure details.
    A supplier offers a full set of Perkasa fittings, most of which would work on the Brave B. At one point considered buying a set. They are made in both resin and cast metal. Eventually parsimony prevailed, so only purchased a small number of hatch covers and other intricate shapes that would be difficult to make well. The items duly arrived and the quality is good. Was surprised by the weight though, so am pleased had embarked on making the other items from the usual materials. There should be an overall weight saving, along with a reduction in my surplus styrene and wood stock.
    One of the design tenants of the Brave class was flexibility. The vessel could operate as a MTB, MGB or Raider, or with a mixture of these capabilities. The weapon mountings were designed to allow armaments to be installed and moved around to suite the requirements of the role.
    Have reviewed many Brave class photographs trying to establish a β€œstandard” armament configuration, to reproduce. Not only does the configuration define the weapons installed, it also establishes the ammunition and flare storage cabinet arrangements. Eventually decided upon the 2 x 40mm Bofors gun arrangement with 2 x 21” torpedoes and 4 x extended range fuel tanks.
    The model is now essentially complete. No doubt as I keep examining it will add further small details and refinements.
    Only disappointment so far is that it does not achieve the original weight target of 6 lbs, it is 9.5 lbs. The 6 lbs may possibly have achievable using one screw and motor etc., but once three are installed, not likely.
    The real test is when finally back on the water. Will close this blog then with a concluding report.

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    πŸ’¬ Re: HMS BRAVE BORDERER
    2 years ago by RHBaker ( Lieutenant)
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    Thanks all for the comments.
    The weight is rather more than expected, but attribute it mainly to the centre brushed motor/shaft/screw arrangement.
    Hoping to get some pictures later this week and will post them.
    The extra weight does not seem to impede performance, so not that concerned.
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    πŸ’¬ Re: HMS BRAVE BORDERER
    2 years ago by Martin555 ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Hi,
    A very neat and tidy boat.

    I made one of these many years ago but nowhere near to the standard off yours.
    Excellent work well done.
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    πŸ’¬ Re: HMS BRAVE BORDERER
    2 years ago by jbkiwi ( Admiral)
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    She's looking very smart now Rowen, waiting for the video when you finish. I wouldn't worry too much about the weight as you have the width in the hull. My 36" ASR weighs around 6.5lbs all up but has a very narrow hull (tapers to only 5 1/8" on the waterline at the transom) and it planes just like the real thing, with the 2 28-45 2000kv in-runners, and 1x 2s 2200mah lipo per motor which gives me about an hour plus 'play time'.
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    2 years ago by RHBaker ( Lieutenant)
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    After completing the cowl, turned to the rear structure covering the gas turbine and other engine spaces. This can readily be made from styrene sheet. The sides and top were cut out, reinforced with β€œL” shaped angle and fitted together with CA glue. No particular challenges, other than determining where the various section transitions occur. Luckily had two different sets of plans to compare, so the nuances could be established.
    It was not until the rear structure was fitted into the cowl, the assembly fitted to the removable deck and placed on the hull, realized just how important this milestone was. Once everything is firmly located the accuracy of build becomes readily apparent. Any inaccuracies show up as an obvious misalignment.
    Was able to check the alignments and squareness using eye, rules, squares and a spirit level and was pleased with the outcome. A subtle sanding of about .020” off the base of one side of the superstructure and everything became square, parallel and correctly aligned. Quite a relief!
    Have always stressed the importance of accuracy throughout a build. This supported that recommendation.
    Once the superstructure was completed realized my plan to lift the deck off to gain access to the electrical control switches was impractical. Have thus cut a small access hole in the rear deck to facilitate access. Still undecided how to best disguise the hole, but at least access is now relatively easy.
    From now on, until the test program can be continued on the water, will add detail to the model. Doubt there will be much to describe is that of interest, or that has not been covered by others.
    Will continue this blog once there is anything significant to report.
    In the meantime, best wishes for Christmas and 2019,

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    2 years ago by RHBaker ( Lieutenant)
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    Thanks Canabus,
    Guess will not know if I need to do something like that until we are back on the water in Spring, but food for thought.
    Rowen
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    2 years ago by canabus ( Midshipman)
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    Hi All
    The boat had the rudder completely vertical to start with and that is the problem.
    With the rudder vertical the boat pulls the bow down in the turns which makes it sit up on the chine.
    A planning hull attack angle is about four degrees to the water, but these boats like an angle of about six degrees.
    The leading edge of the rudder and the angle of it governs bow lift or dip in the turns.
    Also the balance point of the boat is as important as the rudder setup.
    Canabus

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    2 years ago by kevinsharpe ( Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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    Hi. Been watching this build progress and the discussion. Having seen the recently posted pictures of the rudder installation it appears that your problem is probably caused by the rudder aspect. From the photos it appears that the rudder post is not mounted completely vertical. Thus when the blade is turned by the servo this will create an aileron or elevator effect on the water flow. Things behave very. Much the same in water as they do in the sir.

    Regards
    Kevin

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    2 years ago by canabus ( Midshipman)
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    Hi
    A few pics of my modify setup, no pics before hand.
    Moving weight fore or adding ballast works better than wedges.
    Only tested the boat by myself and I gave it a real workout.
    Motor 3639-1100kv, 60A ESC, 5800mah Lipo and 37mm 3blade prop.
    A 40mm 2blade works better and uses a bit less power.
    Rudder blade size 30mm across the top, 22mm across the bottom, 45 deep and the shaft 10mm from the leading edge.
    Sharpen the leading edge and the trialing edge flat.
    This catches are air in the water and send it to the surface.
    Canabus

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    2 years ago by BOATSHED ( Midshipman)
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    Yes also, I would love to see pictures. Very interested . I even went as far as fitting small wooden wedges on the rear of the under side corners of the hull. that was all trial and error from other modelers suggestions on the pond side. Prop swaps and all sorts.

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    2 years ago by RHBaker ( Lieutenant)
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    Hi Canabus, Do you have before and after photos as this sounds intriguing? A video would also be helpful if you have one.
    Thanks
    Rowen

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    2 years ago by canabus ( Midshipman)
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    Hi All
    I have finally fix the boats turning problems by racking the rudder forward 8 degrees and making a new rudder blade with the leading edge straight.
    The bow only dips slightly on the turns.
    Canabus

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    2 years ago by canabus ( Midshipman)
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    Hi
    I am working on a Precedent Perkasa 37" and I added two sets of double 10mm magnets to the front of the wheelhouse and one set at the stern.
    I can lift the whole boat with battery by the wheelhouse.
    I do not think it's going to come off !!!
    Canabus

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    2 years ago by RHBaker ( Lieutenant)
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    Back to the build. Next milestone, to complete the superstructure and engine covers. The superstructure is essentially a cowl that supports the open bridge and serves as the air intake for the gas turbines. The engine covers fit into the rear of it.
    The superstructure is full of curves and will be interesting to make. Still trying to save weight, decided to make it out of glassfibre. Rather than first make a plug then a female mould and finally the cowl, wanted to try the technique of making a plug out of styrene foam sheet, then covering it in a glass fibre matt. Once the glass fibre is set, the foam is dissolved out using a solvent and the cowl remains – inshallah!
    To ensure the foam did not react to the glass fibre resin, painted the finished cowl with enamel paint before sticking the matt down. See pictures.
    What a mess! The resin had crept under the paint and into the foam dissolving it. When the
    resin dried the plug had shrunk slightly and had the surface finish of a quarry. First thought was to hurl it and start again, this time in wood.
    On second thoughts, wondered if the plug could still be used. Decided to build it up with wood filler and from it make a female mould, as originally intended. The cowl would then be made from the mould. Built the damaged plug up and sanded it smooth. As the plug would be covered in fibreglass, the surface finish was not critical. Brushed a coat of fibreglass on the plug and, after drying filled any defects with glaze putty and sanded smooth.
    Once the finish and dimensions were satisfactory, applied a thicker coat of glass fibre to the plug. This was again smoothed down, waxed with carnauba polish and then covered in mould release. From it the cowl was made.
    Picture shows plug, mould and cowl placed side by each. The cowl requires reinforcement; the fittings and various mountings then adding before installing. A trial installation showed that it fitted properly the deck and was accurate.
    A lesson for the next time is to make the plug and mould much deeper than the finished item. That will allow any rough edges, on either the mould or the component, to be trimmed off leaving a smooth fibreglass edge.

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    2 years ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
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    How true, how true RowenπŸ‘πŸ˜
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    2 years ago by RHBaker ( Lieutenant)
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    Hi Kevin,
    Yes I did, because of the complexity of the shape that was another technique that could have been used. I decided to use glass fibre as the cowl is around 7" wide and 3 1/2" deep. Considered a draw of that depth was beyond my skill and facilities with plastic sheet. if they are available it would have been a good approach.
    The more I work with glass fibre the more forgiving it seems to be. Not many mistakes that cannot be disguised or corrected!
    Rowen

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    2 years ago by kevinsharpe ( Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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    Hi
    Did you consider building the superstructure using plastic sheet as plastic would bend around the curves.

    Regards
    Kevin

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