This model is intended to be used to carry camera such as a go pro. my current camera vessel is a barge and I can't turn the barge without it looking bad on video so I wanted a vessel that can move under its own power but not too fast. The model is 1/20 and will have 2 paddles wheels, one on each side. This particular vessel is currently in Canberra NSW but it used to operate in Uchuka NSW.
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This model is intended to be used to carry camera such as a go pro. my current camera vessel is a barge and I can't turn the barge without it looking bad on video so I wanted a vessel that can move under its own power but not too fast. The model is 1/20 and will have 2 paddles wheels, one on each side. This particular vessel is currently in Canberra NSW but it used to operate in Uchuka NSW.
The lip so it is as water light as possible is now made and the motor assembly will be made look like a boiler when fully completed.
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Agree with Joe, interesting build rcmb👍
BTW; I've heard of 'Heavy Water' (deuterium) but never Light Water:
I suppose that's just HO ? 😁😁
Cheers, Doug 😎
As this model will be Electric a mock boiler will be put in place for aesthetics as it can be seen clearly if you look directly front on, on the real ship. The struts that come out of the hull are for a extra piece of deck that then connects to the paddle boxes.
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As this model will be Electric a mock boiler will be put in place for aesthetics as it can be seen clearly if you look directly front on, on the real ship. The struts that come out of the hull are for a extra piece of deck that then connects to the paddle boxes.
The boiler is coming along nicely and the deck is glued down. The chain rudder servo is in place.
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I agree Joe, intriguing!
but I might be tempted to use some plastic tubing liners on the breakthroughs through the decks and coamings.
Otherwise you might end up with a chain saw 😲
Cheers, Doug 😎
The bow section of the top deck is made and is now Varnished, some pins as rivets on the bow, the Rudder shaft supports with pins as rivets and now the top deck stern section needs to.be made. The stern section has gaps in the wood.
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The bow section of the top deck is made and is now Varnished, some pins as rivets on the bow, the Rudder shaft supports with pins as rivets and now the top deck stern section needs to.be made. The stern section has gaps in the wood.
The Top deck is now complete. The hull is partially painted and the construction of the superstructure has begun and the rudder is now attached
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The stern section of the superstructure is built.
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The structural frame for the superstructure is now in place along with the 2 sides of the superstructure. The log box is being built and the little details are starting to go on.
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The structural frame for the superstructure is now in place along with the 2 sides of the superstructure. The log box is being built and the little details are starting to go on.
The lower superstructure is basically done, the top deck is cut out, the lower section of the structure is painted and the paddle box faces are built. Next is the paddles and electrics
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The lower superstructure is basically done, the top deck is cut out, the lower section of the structure is painted and the paddle box faces are built. Next is the paddles and electrics
Hi Joe, I am using plans that are provided by the National Museum of Australia who owns the vessel. The plans are of the vessel during her original configuration so I am also using a direct photograph of the sides, top, front and back to get the correct superstructure dimensions. There are plans available from Float a Boat Australia.
Thank you for the information, I had started sketching the design based on the photos. The Float a Boat site is a great resource, don't know why I never found it before. I build and sail sailboats as well, so there sailboat plans look great as well.
Before I forget, that rudder that you built is one of the best I have ever seen! Inspires me to do better on mine.
Joe👍
The paddle wheel is printed with the second on the way, shaft gear is in place with the motor about to be installed. The rear deck sides are rounded and will be painted soon.
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The paddle wheel is printed with the second on the way, shaft gear is in place with the motor about to be installed. The rear deck sides are rounded and will be painted soon.
Coming on apace RC👍
How have you fixed/locked the plastic gear to the metal shaft?
I have exactly that problem in my ancient Billing fish cutter restoration and RC conversion.
How to fix gears from an old printer onto the motor and prop shafts!
Cheers, Doug 😎