After cutting the hull free from the former using the prepared slots sanded the top of the frames, etc . I made up two sponsons for the paddle and secured them to the side of the hull using blocks and brackets. My attention then turned to fitting the bulwarks. Using strips of lime I bent one piece round a former to form the stern. It was softened using hot water. Clamped to former and allowed to dry. This was then glued and pinned to the hull. Note:- When planking I allowed for a space below deck level to allow the bulwarks to secured to the deck edge. The foredeck bulwarks were easier due to the curves of hull.
I coated the interior of the hull with isopon epoxy resin to waterproof the interior and to strengthen the hull.

From the drawing, marked out and cut the frames for the access hatch. Also cut in the bulwarks various holes for hawsers.
Fitted bracing pieces round the hold ready for the superstructure to be mounted.
Fitted rubbing belts, and bulwark doublers.

Having researched the use of a motor for each paddle,I came across a blog which did not recommend it due to the high risk of capsizing the tug if one was on Drive and the other in reverse. Therefore went for a single motor drive via a gearbox. The plans show this arrangement. After a long hunt using Google found a supplier for suitable drive cogs. Using brass sheet made the gearbox assembly as per the drawing. Parts were soft soldered together.
For a drive motor I used one from the spares box. This was fitted with a reduction gearbox. Until I put the boat in the water I have no idea if the ratios will be ok.

The hull was painted with aerosol car paint from Halfords , satin black for above the water line. Red above the water line. white for rubbing belt.

Paddle boxes are constructed of 1/32 Birch plywood. Using templates from the drawing cut out using the jewellers saw again. Portholes were purchased from Modelbits.
Handrails are electrical copper wire.
These boxes have been arranged to be a push fit to the sponsons. A rubber grommet is on the drive shaft to reduce the risk of water entering the hull.

Using 1/32 Birch plywood and off cuts of lime. Cut out and assembled the superstructure. This to have a snug fit to the hold sides.

I had a couple of goes following the plans however I was not happy with the result.
I again did a bit of research and found that these tugs had a whole load of different designs for the bridge. So I designed my own with straight sides making it a bit simpler. The wheel house was made from 1/32 Birch plywood. As you can see from the pic. It includes a chart table, engine telegraph, ships wheel binnacle.sliding doors. All made from scratch. I have to say some of the parts needed multiple attempts.

The superstructure was sprayed with white primer and a top coat of appliance white.
Port holes fitted. Windows glazed. The funnel was made from a toothpaste tube. It has a nice tapered flange. The funnel guys are copper wire and the turn buckles each made from 2mm brass tube and two ring pins. These were soft soldered together. The deck was planked using 0.5x5mm mahogany strips. The handrail stanchions and brass handrail wire were purchased from Modelboat bits.
The engine telegraph units manufactured from wood doweling and brass items.
The forward doors made out of mahogany strips.
Additional Info
Port holes - Alwayshobbies.com
Ringpins -These were found in a craft shop in the jewellery section.
Brass tube - B&Q
Spray paint - Halfords
Mahogany strips - left over from another project but can be found online.

To allow proper towing capacity I have reinforced the deck to where the towing assembly can be secured and the assembly is built with strength in mind. The top can be removed to give access to holes to allow the assembly to be screwed down to the deck.

The towing hook is made out of brass sheet (2 pieces soft soldered together).
The gratings are made from car body repair sheet from Halfords.

Cabin companions are manufactured from bits of scrap timber. Skylights manufactured from plasticard.
Dimensions from plans.