This was put together using plasticard, brass wire and pins, heat shrink sleeving, wooden dowels, brass sheet. Cogs from a misc batch bought on EBay, etc.
The pulleys are the end of golf tees, a tip from model boat mag.
It was quite a challenge considering the scale of it however the finished result I think looks quite effective.
The scale is slightly larger than it should be, mainly because of my limited skills.
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This was put together using plasticard, brass wire and pins, heat shrink sleeving, wooden dowels, brass sheet. Cogs from a misc batch bought on EBay, etc.
The pulleys are the end of golf tees, a tip from model boat mag.
It was quite a challenge considering the scale of it however the finished result I think looks quite effective.
The scale is slightly larger than it should be, mainly because of my limited skills.
The fore deck is made from 1.5mm Birch plywood. A template was made out of card. This was then transferred to plywood and cut out a little proud. The plywood was filed, sanded to give a good fit. Deck was then planked using 0.5 x 5mm mahogany strips left over from another project. Holes were drilled as require for anchor chains and lockers. The chain lockers are made from brass tube and brass washers.
The under deck was reinforced, between frame for the mast, etc. Deck then glued and pinned into position. When secure the winch was fitted in position including the chain locks (Don't know the nautical term)
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The fore deck is made from 1.5mm Birch plywood. A template was made out of card. This was then transferred to plywood and cut out a little proud. The plywood was filed, sanded to give a good fit. Deck was then planked using 0.5 x 5mm mahogany strips left over from another project. Holes were drilled as require for anchor chains and lockers. The chain lockers are made from brass tube and brass washers.
The under deck was reinforced, between frame for the mast, etc. Deck then glued and pinned into position. When secure the winch was fitted in position including the chain locks (Don't know the nautical term)
Had to do a bit of research on what is a Trotmans Anchor. Using the dimensions from the plans. Manufactured two anchors from brass sheet and parts soft soldered together. These anchors will be secured to the deck with rope lashings.
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Had to do a bit of research on what is a Trotmans Anchor. Using the dimensions from the plans. Manufactured two anchors from brass sheet and parts soft soldered together. These anchors will be secured to the deck with rope lashings.
To allow access to the steering servo and associated rudder, I had to think of how to arrange this without it being obvious. my solution was to have a removable central section secured in position using the support pillars of the towing beams. The forward end slips under the towing hook assembly. The side decks were pinned and glued.
The complete deck was planked in mahogany strip similar to the fore deck.
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To allow access to the steering servo and associated rudder, I had to think of how to arrange this without it being obvious. my solution was to have a removable central section secured in position using the support pillars of the towing beams. The forward end slips under the towing hook assembly. The side decks were pinned and glued.
The complete deck was planked in mahogany strip similar to the fore deck.
Hi Hillro,
You could also consider using neodymium magnets to hold down that deck section.
That's what I used to hold the forward edge of the aft deck down and the cabin roof on on my Sea Scout.
Great build 👍 Cheers, Doug😎
Having decided to make the system 12volts DC. I made a battery box to fit into the hull to ensure it was secure. The battery was rated at 3.7AH. I had to temporarily remove the paddles drive to allow the battery to fit. Please note the extension to the hatch. The top walls of the battery box are well above the battery. This is to allow a panel to be secured housing fuses, switches etc
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Having decided to make the system 12volts DC. I made a battery box to fit into the hull to ensure it was secure. The battery was rated at 3.7AH. I had to temporarily remove the paddles drive to allow the battery to fit. Please note the extension to the hatch. The top walls of the battery box are well above the battery. This is to allow a panel to be secured housing fuses, switches etc
The mast is used for raising the ship signal lighting. These lantern were oil lamps and could be raised and lowered using a pulley system and two guide ropes.
I have used two guide ropes using brass wire. these are insulated from each other.
Using wheat grain lamps fitted in brass lanterns soft soldered to the two guide rope allows them to be lit using 12volts from the battery.
The mast footing is made from plasticard and fitted with belaying pins. The mast from a tapered wood dowel. The masthead brackets from brass sheet and ring pins. The rigging turn buckles from soft soldered brass tube and ring pins.
Small pulley blocks from spares box.
Rigging cord used to secure the mast to the hull and to the bowsprit.
The flag was added as an afterthought.
I could have used LEDs but there is always the problem of dropping resistors and where to put them. The bulbs leads also could be hidden quite easily.
Mast head lanterns purchased from Croppers Models
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The mast is used for raising the ship signal lighting. These lantern were oil lamps and could be raised and lowered using a pulley system and two guide ropes.
I have used two guide ropes using brass wire. these are insulated from each other.
Using wheat grain lamps fitted in brass lanterns soft soldered to the two guide rope allows them to be lit using 12volts from the battery.
The mast footing is made from plasticard and fitted with belaying pins. The mast from a tapered wood dowel. The masthead brackets from brass sheet and ring pins. The rigging turn buckles from soft soldered brass tube and ring pins.
Small pulley blocks from spares box.
Rigging cord used to secure the mast to the hull and to the bowsprit.
The flag was added as an afterthought.
I could have used LEDs but there is always the problem of dropping resistors and where to put them. The bulbs leads also could be hidden quite easily.
Mast head lanterns purchased from Croppers Models
I looked at various options on how to construct a life boat using paper, balsa wood, etc. However through google I found a kit from China that would fit the bill.
Duly ordered and delivered the kit consisted of thin mahogany parts pre cut with a laser. Instructions were basic however after a very fiddly construction the result was very effective.
The davits were manufactured using brass sheet, tube, wire and washers. Parts soft soldered together. Pulley blocks out of boxwood.
More research showed that the boat while hanging under the davits were also secured to the tug using straps. I made these out of knicker elastic with wire eyes on each end.
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I looked at various options on how to construct a life boat using paper, balsa wood, etc. However through google I found a kit from China that would fit the bill.
Duly ordered and delivered the kit consisted of thin mahogany parts pre cut with a laser. Instructions were basic however after a very fiddly construction the result was very effective.
The davits were manufactured using brass sheet, tube, wire and washers. Parts soft soldered together. Pulley blocks out of boxwood.
More research showed that the boat while hanging under the davits were also secured to the tug using straps. I made these out of knicker elastic with wire eyes on each end.
Whoops, I just noticed that I had not allowed for the planked area of the sponsons.
After a bit of head scratching decided to cut out a layer of plywood. Using a dermel fitted with a disc cutter, chisel and carving knife cut out a layer. This was then planked with 1x4mm lime strips.
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Whoops, I just noticed that I had not allowed for the planked area of the sponsons.
After a bit of head scratching decided to cut out a layer of plywood. Using a dermel fitted with a disc cutter, chisel and carving knife cut out a layer. This was then planked with 1x4mm lime strips.
Having trawled the internet I could only find suitable fenders for the bow.
So I had to think about making the fenders for the paddle sponsons.
Research found some ideas by knitting triangles and rolling them up to form a fender.
However I remembered as a kid knitting using a wooden cotton reel with four nails to knit a tube. I eventual found out its called French knitting. A visit to a craft shop I found a fancy French knitter. After a bit of experimentation I added nails to make it eight pins. Using elastic thread was able to knit a reasonable fender. Filling the inside with a bit of foam cut to a tube shape and sowing the ends.
I think it worked ok.
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Having trawled the internet I could only find suitable fenders for the bow.
So I had to think about making the fenders for the paddle sponsons.
Research found some ideas by knitting triangles and rolling them up to form a fender.
However I remembered as a kid knitting using a wooden cotton reel with four nails to knit a tube. I eventual found out its called French knitting. A visit to a craft shop I found a fancy French knitter. After a bit of experimentation I added nails to make it eight pins. Using elastic thread was able to knit a reasonable fender. Filling the inside with a bit of foam cut to a tube shape and sowing the ends.
I think it worked ok.
See if you can find a family member or a friend that can crotchet, my wife makes me great fenders, bow and stern and side ones, in many different materials, cord,string etc. If you have trouble getting someone to help, let me know and I will get some made for you.