At least there's more meat on their legs Cash😁😋
Sorry Raggie🤔 We digress!
But I do hope that you now have more luck with your waterline🤞
Let us know how you get on please.
All the best, Doug 😎
Another vote for the Tamiya masking tape, especially the 6mm wide tape. If I’m masking something large, I’ll use the 6mm Tamiya for the line, then cover the rest with paper or lesser tape attached to the Tamiya I used to set the line. Also, there’s a brand named Frogtape that works very well, and also the 3M green auto painters tape.
Cash
Another vote for the Tamiya masking tape, especially the 6mm wide tape. If I’m masking something large, I’ll use the 6mm Tamiya for the line, then cover the rest with paper or lesser tape attached to the Tamiya I used to set the line. Also, there’s a brand named Frogtape that works very well, and also the 3M green auto painters tape.
Cash
Very sorry to hear (read?) that about your trouble Raggie.🤔
But pleased to hear that you are on the mend and getting back into our (sometimes🙄) therapeutic hobby👍
I can thoroughly endorse Dave's comments, especially re Tamiya masking tape. Normal masking tape ALWAYS has crinkles which lets paint creep underneath, or you spend ages trying to flatten the edges with the back end of a paintbrush handle or similar.
E.g. ACME Tools Professional Masking Tape De-crinkler, Special offer: TODAY ONLY JUST 15quid! 😁😂 Even the fine artists masking tape has fine crinkles I've found😭
Tamiya tape is superbly flat and easy to tape round curves and multi-plane surfaces, like most boat / ship hulls🤔
To 'straighten' (rotten pun intended😁) out your problem-
If there are any raised edges along your wanted waterline; flat them back with something like 1200 to 2000 wet&dry (Again Tamiya😉 I like to use their sanding sponges for this).
Mask off one colour along the waterline (e.g lower hull) with Tamiya tape. The rest of the lower hull with the usual newspaper held down with normal masking tape onto the Tamiya tape.
Spray on your upper hull colour. When dust dry slowly pull the Tamiya tape away from the waterline at an acute angle.
Don't wait for the paint to fully harden or you may find that it cracks and lifts at the edge, especially if it is a bit thick.
Leave to fully harden overnight and repeat the process to paint the lower hull.
Sorry if this sounds pedantic (takes much longer to describe than to do🙄) but it works for me - all tips learned the HARD way 😭
Bon chance mon ami🤞
Cheers, Doug 😎
Very sorry to hear (read?) that about your trouble Raggie.🤔
But pleased to hear that you are on the mend and getting back into our (sometimes🙄) therapeutic hobby👍
I can thoroughly endorse Dave's comments, especially re Tamiya masking tape. Normal masking tape ALWAYS has crinkles which lets paint creep underneath, or you spend ages trying to flatten the edges with the back end of a paintbrush handle or similar.
E.g. ACME Tools Professional Masking Tape De-crinkler, Special offer: TODAY ONLY JUST 15quid! 😁😂 Even the fine artists masking tape has fine crinkles I've found😭
Tamiya tape is superbly flat and easy to tape round curves and multi-plane surfaces, like most boat / ship hulls🤔
To 'straighten' (rotten pun intended😁) out your problem-
If there are any raised edges along your wanted waterline; flat them back with something like 1200 to 2000 wet&dry (Again Tamiya😉 I like to use their sanding sponges for this).
Mask off one colour along the waterline (e.g lower hull) with Tamiya tape. The rest of the lower hull with the usual newspaper held down with normal masking tape onto the Tamiya tape.
Spray on your upper hull colour. When dust dry slowly pull the Tamiya tape away from the waterline at an acute angle.
Don't wait for the paint to fully harden or you may find that it cracks and lifts at the edge, especially if it is a bit thick.
Leave to fully harden overnight and repeat the process to paint the lower hull.
Sorry if this sounds pedantic (takes much longer to describe than to do🙄) but it works for me - all tips learned the HARD way 😭
Bon chance mon ami🤞
Cheers, Doug 😎
Young at heart 😉 Slightly older in other places.😊 Cheers Doug
Hi Raggie
Hope you are getting better.
You need to use some form of tape to get straight lines between different colours. Masking tape may work but often allows seepage under the tape. Tamiya make a very good tape that works well.
As you have already painted both colours you could try the tape on the lighter colour and repaint the darker colour, or add a white line between the two using tape.
Another way would be to get some thin trim tape from a car body shop and stick this over the join to hide the mistakes. You will need to cover over the tape with a clear lacquer to protect.
Dave
Hi Raggie
Hope you are getting better.
You need to use some form of tape to get straight lines between different colours. Masking tape may work but often allows seepage under the tape. Tamiya make a very good tape that works well.
As you have already painted both colours you could try the tape on the lighter colour and repaint the darker colour, or add a white line between the two using tape.
Another way would be to get some thin trim tape from a car body shop and stick this over the join to hide the mistakes. You will need to cover over the tape with a clear lacquer to protect.
Dave
Been out of it since June, I've had a stroke and getting back into it. I have made a mess of the paint work between the red and the black on the hull sides. I need help to get the lines right between the red and black. Sorry for any mistake in written word it taken a good one hour to write this.
Been out of it since June, I've had a stroke and getting back into it. I have made a mess of the paint work between the red and the black on the hull sides. I need help to get the lines right between the red and black. Sorry for any mistake in written word it taken a good one hour to write this.
