Must agree with ChrisF about the red Huco couplings. I had one break up some time ago and it damaged not only itself but the interior of the boat. I now stick with the metal to rubber ones. Mobile Marine Models used to do a set of turned fittings of various sizes to cover different variations of motor shaft/prop shaft so that you can hold the motor in a solid alignment - they may still do them. I have had my set for quite some time and have machined up various others from aluminium rod (eBay) on my lathe as needed.
Derek.

Hi Martyn

As others have said it is very important to have the motor and prop shaft in line. Not just because of noise and vibration but because the motor can get very hot.

In a model of that size and weight I'd be wary of using those red Huco couplings as they can break. Raboesch do a better quality one (Cornwall Model Boats etc.) but in larger models I've standardised on the alloy ones with the rubber block in the middle and you can get the solid couplings to aid alignment as you can mount the motor and then fit the base snugly under it. They are longer but that might be a benefit as it will move the motor forward to clear the step, make it easier to get a base in and all four screws.

If you do use a Huco coupling you can tape splints around it to provide a temporary solid coupling.

Chris

Thank you for your reply. I have some tools but have ordered a Dremel type micro tool to help with this refurb.
I did read about having to solder the capacitors and your link makes this nice and clear, thanks.
I'm sure there will be more questions!!
Martyn

Thanks

Hi Martyn,
I've sent my photos of the coupling and the layout in the various compartments onto the Vosper 47ft article by mistake. Since sending this reply I've noticed I made a mistake saying the servo was in the rear compartment when in fact it is in the second to rear compartment along with the plastic container for the receiver. I originally built this in my early twenties (now 71!) and like many other people it just got stored away until the lockdown when I decided to refurb it for something to do! Repaint, new motor and new radio gear plus more accessories which I got from SLEC. These were such things as window frames, tow hook, mast, fire monitors, air vents, decals and crane. The front wheel house windows of the current model that they produce are a slightly different shape but I traced mine and they very kindly produced a matching set of front windows. They are extremely helpful to deal with. Worth a visit to their website:-

https://www.slecuk.com/vintage-model-boats/boat-kits/crash-tender-345
The crash tender fittings are at the bottom of this webpage. Good luck. Cheers Duncan
P.S. I'll also post part of this reply on Vosper for other people who might be considering a refurb of this boat.😊

Hi MartynB
As others have advised the motor and propshaft need to be in completed alignment. You will need to remove enough of the baseplate to allow your motor and mount to align correctly and then provide a new wooden sloping base. Take your time and work slowly so you don't make yourself more work.
You say you are new to modelling but may have some woodworking skills and tools which will help with the task.
The three small capacitors glued to the motor need to be soldered to the motor terminals. Details are available on this site at
https://model-boats.com/wiki/38741

Good luck with the renovation and please keep asking questions as you progress.
dave 976

Thank you for your help. A photo would be great whenever you get a chance to post one.
Martyn

Thanks, yes it is that model. Someone has suggested shaving some wood away from below the motor to bring it more in line.
Martyn

Thanks, thats very helpful, I did wonder if that would be an option.
Martyn

Many Thanks that's very helpful.
Martyn

Her is my aerokits 34" version, this was changed from ic to electric about 11 years ago.
Hope this helps you.
Cheers Colin.

Martyn, is your model one of the 34" aerokits version.
From the picture it looks like it originally had an ic engine.
If I'm correct then it would be best to remove the original mounting timber and then you could get your motor to line up perfectly.
I'll have a look at my boats to sea if there is one I could photo to help you.
Have a look at my harbour, cheers Colin.

Hi, I have fit many electric motors in boats, and my opinion is that I would tryvto shave/grind/ whittle a bit more wood from the bottom mount area.
If it were a double-joint Coupler, it would be more forgiving, however it looks like you would be able to shave the wood down a little more where needed.

Hi, I can't tell for sure from the photo on my phone but I think it will be OK. You might get a loss of power and some vibration if out of line. I used a flexible rubber coupling and because the end doesn't drop down it makes it easy to get a perfectly lined up. I just then made adjustments until the coupling slid onto the motor shaft perfectly. I will send a photo of my coupling when I'm able to. Good luck Duncan