Hello Alan,

I am Bryan, Commodore of the group. We meet every Sunday from about 10:30 and you are welcome on any Sunday not just the 1st. Are you bringing a boat?

Hope to see you soon

Bryan

HI jd,
Thanks for the advice.
I will search for Westsystem.com stuff, info and give it a go as you suggest.
I'm a beginner at model boating.
Been an electronics engineer but retired from
full time employment 2011 so hope to have more spare time for model boating.
Again, thanks.

HI Paul,

I use a system called West System. it is a two part Epoxy and is real easy to use. it is also real easy to sand. I put it on with a brush or a roller. I give mine about two or three light coats. Once it is dry I sand it lightly between coats with 220 grit then wet sand it with up to 600 grit. This gives it a glass like finish. Then if I paint it looks like a finish on an expensive car. it can also be used with glass to strengthen stress areas. They have some great tutorials on there web site. I also use it to repair full size boats that stay on the water. it is sold in the UK as well. I looked it up on there web site.
Hope this helps. Good luck. JD

Web site.
http://www.westsystem.com/ss/
Where to get near you.
http://www.westsystem.com/ss/where-to-buy/

Your message stated the ply layers were coming apart . Epoxy etc is only the solution AFTER stopping the ply de-laminating. invert the hull and watch all the fiddly bits fall out even when you have probably thought you removed most of them. Anyway dry the delaminating ply etc and paint removal on the uppermost edge then the true fix is to squirt cyno type glue/zap instant glue whatever it is called in the UK. I have aoso used thinned resin to soak but find the zap method most satisfactor .It is: waterproof, soaks into the ply, and strengthens and stops delaminating which will continue to ruin the model etc (as the ply bonding/glue? has broken down over the years) then follow the other suggestions to repair remedy etc. My Pt/ ASR/ Aerokits / patrol boats are wood and well over 32 minimum years young and I/c and the modern trick glues are now available to do "preservation" tasks with unlike days past.I went boating today with my "Black Marauder" from the Model Boats plan ( Taipan 19 glow) in the 5 to 6 inch chop today at the sea channel as in Australia we cannot be too choosey All the best from Lyle.

HI Paul

I use West System epoxy it is the real easy to use. You can get it at West Marine. You don't have to mesure it out it has a pump for each container. The mix is one for one with no smell. it is easy to sand I have even drilled and tapped it. I use it on the.inside and outside of the hull. The have a web page with info so does West Marine. Hope this helps. Jd

I have had same problem
I used a two part epoxy resin you can usually get from your nearest model shop I mixes very thinly so you can brush it
inside the hull with a flat brush when it sets it should cure
the problem or try useing a wood glue similar to cascamite
you mix it thinly watered down and flush it roun your hull
when set should the same hope this helps mick

Thank you Dave & Lyle

later this year will try the resin repair suggested

it woulkd appear from your replies that this is not an uncommon problem and I could experience this with other older wooden boats - so thnaks for the repair advice.

Tall Paul.

The general method of Tall Paul is very good. I have certainly dried out the wood thoroughly(in the Oz sunshine) {ON A FUEL SOAKED MODEL where the paint gave away afeter 10 years I even soaked the soaked area only with metho to absorb the oil and SET ALIGHT which burns the metho and put out after 1 to 2 seconds without model / wood burns AT ALL, us modellers are dions of adventure and Imagination for our hobby}. Anyway, I sand down generally ( total bare wood is not absolute just get most paint off as some stays in the grain holes. I then paint or dab in aquadhere (Poly Vinyl Acetate PVA) white wood glue( forget about telling me it is water soluble , yes it does eventually let go when soaked for a week but not when sealed as in a model ) Anyway try to glue the coming apart ply and clamp at least two days wherever you can to glue damaged bits.THEN BEFORE proceeding with the best tips from Paul mix your fibreglass resin with an EXTRA/double extra amount of drops or mls of the hardener only and thin it 30 to 40 percent with acetone thinners and as a paint runny, very runny paint it and watch it SOAK into the wood/paint model area forever and PRESERVE your model from, rot, water, oil, age deterioration, softening of wood and nasties from anywhere. Then when it is / has gone 'off' rememberadd double drops the extra hardener to 'fix' the fibreglass resin but it takes a lot slower to 'fix/set' the resin mix as it is thinned to soak,(actually you are just mixing a double amount of hardener in thinned resin and takes a while more to'fix/set') all experience and do tests on spare wood till you get the technique with longer to set/fix then follow Pauls best advice with the same resin seal/repair or cloth resin/ seal repair or addition of ply braces/ resin repair, whatever is your fancy, whatever . All the best Lyle.

HI Tall Paul
Sounds like the hull has split along the glue joints. I have had to repair many of my wooden hull models because of this problem. I normally use car body fiberglass cloth with resin/hardener. This can be obtained from your local car accessory outlet or preferably from a local supplier of fiberglass products. You have not said what size model so I can't tell you the likely cost.
You will need to strip the hull to bare wood and repair any damage before you apply the cloth and resin. The process is messy and the fumes are harmful so best to wait for a good sunny day and work in the garden. I mix the resin and hardener (as per instructions) and brush a thin patch to the hull, then take a previously cut piece of cloth and place over the patch. Using a brush stipple more resin over the cloth and into the hull so that you have no air bubbles trapped. Continue in stages overlapping cloth joins until you have covered the hull.
You will end up with a fully sealed hull that will need to be sanded smooth (wet and dry paper) and any Imperfections filled with car body filler. Final finish will depend on how long you spend preparing the surface before final painting. I use car body spray cans from the local market stall and finish off with a clear lacquer.
If you can get inside the hull the advice to apply resin is good. Use the same car resin as for the outside but add a little cellulose thinners to make it pour easier. Again it is best to work on small areas at a time and use gravity to get the resin all over the inside of the hull.
The downside to all this is the weight of the cloth and resin. However if you work carefully and don't overdo the resin application the result should be acceptable.
Hope this helps and good luck with your boat
Dave