Hello again.
I see you have had lots of good advice since posting your blog, I would especially recommend the advice to fit an inline fuse directly within one of the battery leads, much cheaper to replace a fuse than an ESP (speed controller) or worse still your model.
The first couple of photos are of my Diva built probably about 20 years ago.
The next photo shows a battery pack fitting neatly below the cockpit floor, which considering the weight is a great place for balancing the boat. This also shows the tiny steering servo held in place with velcro. You will probably require an extension lead from this servo to the receiver, these readily available, three wires and come with fitted plugs either end.
The next photo shows the Graupner 400 motor great for this boat and connected to the prop shaft simply with a plastic tube. There is loads of space in the Diva either side of the motor for the receiver and the ESP. I often use either velcro or good double sided to fit these bits which happen to be where you will spend most of your money.
This next photo shows battery (green) with the receiver on top of it and the ESP 15 fitted on a platform forward of it and illustrates how much space is available in the Diva by comparison to this model. You can see in this photo two types of connectors and a switch not fixed that kills everything. But don

t forget that fuse mentioned by

mouldbuilder` most important. I normally use automotive types easily and cheaply obtained.
I hope that this will help you a little. I have found most model shops are helpful especially if you explain that you are new to the hobby.
Take care and ask if you are not sure regards ChrisG

I see the advice given below which is all very good but I must stress, even though it was mentioned in passing by Greg, the importance of a suitable fuse just after the battery. It could, in that very rare circumstance, save your boat.
Peter.

Thank ChrisG and GregHiltz for your help and advice. As a novice it is a bit confusing to know what is best without being caught in the retailers' trap of buying their sometimes overpriced electrical gear. 👍

Ok, my Newbie friend- we all start somewhere, and you were wise to search out which way to turn, rather than buying g parts which may not work for you.
If you have a suitable motor hooked up, there is step #1. Next, R/C equipment will require a Transmitter(Hand Set) and Receiver(Boat piece), plus An Electronic Speed Controller(ESC).These little units will give you full For/Rev control plus it will take power from your main batteries to power your electronics in the boat. Most all ESC's now have a BEC (Battery Eliminator Circuit), which backfeed 4.5 to 6v to power the Receiver.
Depending on the Voltage required for the motor, will determine which batteries you need.
For simplicity sake, I will assume your motor is brushed, rated for 6v to 8v.- Therefore, the cheaper solution is to use two standard NiMh 7.2v battery packs, wired to keep 7.2volt, with double the amperage storage( if 3000ma each, you would have 6000milli-amp total usable power.) You can modify the wiring for this feature, or I sell the proper wiring couplers to join both battery packs. The Battery pack now plugs into the (+,-) ESC, then plug the ESC motor leads to the motor.- These wires can be reversed if your motor turns the wrong direction per the Tx stick if the Transmitter does not have the Servo Reversing option.
Lastly, you will plug the ESC into the appropriate channel slot in the small Receiver.
Of course, your Rudder Servo plugs into a horizontal stick Rx slot too.
When I supply R/C setups for customers, I also supply custom wiring harness with Fuse, 3 way DPDT switch and Charging Circuit.
Any decent Hobby Shop in your area will steer you right in matching up the proper Radio, ESC and Battery Packs you need or I can also supply all you need.
I have a fully stocked Model Boat Shop, here in New Brunswick, Canada, but I ship parts all over the world.

Hello
I am not a wizard at electrics of any type but I have been through and come through the pain you are feeling. I built a Diva many years ago and you picked a good one to start with.
I am not at home tonight but first thing tomorrow I will send you photos of the interior of mine which hopefully will help you.
As for a starter kit there really isn't one, from the top of my head you will need, here goes. Pliers, snips or wire cutters, a selection of screwdrivers, small soldering iron and flux or wire connectors these come in strips of varying sizes I would recommend small. Bear in mind you are probably looking at 12v max so you don't need domestic sizes. Batteries are a science understood to only a few and I am not included in the group, my rule of thumb is, what is the battery requirement to run the motor, servos and any lighting and that is normally 6v to 9v.
You can spend an absolute fortune on power, bit like heating your house but my recommendation is buy the best you can afford that fits in the space available and that will supply power to the motor my guess is 6v.
Diva is a very light craft and does not need a lot of power or big motor to push it along quickly enough.
I hope some of this helps with the photos I will send you tomorrow, no doubt and hopefully other members will send their recommendations.
Please remember we all had to start somewhere and the more models you make the easier it will become and please ask when in doubt, we all had to.
Regards ChrisG