From reading up on it, it sounds as though the G10 is the way to go as the G3 is a bit too coarse and can introduce its own minor scratches. You can get 500ml for around £12. I may try some myself at some point as I've got some dark blue painting to do which I think will show up blemishes even more.

I've read the pain that the Riva builders have gone through on the Mahem forum, they have even tried varnishing in the bathroom with the extract fan on!

Fortunately I've only got the decks and mahogany rubbing strips and trim to worry about.

Chris

Thank you. Very much appreciated. I let you know how I get on at resourcing a small amount from a car repair place. Cheers Duncan 😊😊

Duncan, if you get stuck I think I have a full bottle of G10 left over from a car restoration. I can try and dig it out, decant some and post it. Just have to remember where I’ve put it!

Hi Chris. I have hand painted the decks and sides of the hull with yacht varnish. Below the water line I have then over painted in white enamel. I was perhaps aiming for too higher perfection by trying to remove the odd dust specs. Removing these with say 3000 grade sandpaper or rubbing compound will remove the shine so that is why I was wondering about then finishing with polish. Colin H has recommended trying Farecia G3 rubbing compound. Sounds good but I was quoted £24.95 for a 1 litre bottle - and I certainly wouldn't need that much! He suggested visiting a car body repair centre to see if I could buy a small amount from them - sounds an idea! In the end if I can't get some cheap I will just leave it as it is!

Hi Duncan - If you use good quality paint you shouldn't really need to polish it to achieve a good shine though it can be difficult if hand painting not to have the odd defect in the surface e.g. from having missed a bit or brush strokes. I'm having quite good results with my Fairey builds but can't achieve perfection! Another polish recommended is 3M Finesse but that is even more expensive!

Dust is the bane of applying paint and varnish unless you have an extraction system which most of us don't. A wet sheet hung over the work area and covering with a big cardboard box can help.

Chris

Thank you. I'll try that idea. 😊

Duncan as you only need a small amount you could approach your local car body repair centre, as they will have all the finishing compounds needed and may let you have enough to do your model.
I also leave the fittings off till I'm happy with the finished surface.
No wax.
Cheers Colin.

Thanks Colin. Do you have to then put a wax polish on afterwards in order to get a high gloss? Do you attach your fittings before using G3? I had a look at the website and there is also a G10 which indicates leaving a high gloss but I was rather shocked at the prices. I only need a tiny amount because this will probably be my last build! Unfortunately my hands are not upto doing another one. Thanks Duncan.

Duncan, I always use Farecla G3 rubbing compound to get the desired finish.
Cheers Colin

You could do worse than look at the Guide to Varnishing over at the Classic and Vintage Dinghy Association, as we can get a little bit competitive over varnishing.

My 100 year old full sized rebuild project has about 24 coats (lost count!) on the hull, though they are thin coats and I flatten back with 240 wet and dry every 3 or 4 coats. The deck still needs the final coats added, but I’m waiting for consistent temperature and drier air. I always use a foam roller and tip off with a genuine Jenny brush.

I use a traditional varnish (International Schooner) as my only varnish as I can touch up any wear during the season. I’ve used pretty much everything over the last 30 years, I don’t get on with Epifanes. If I’m varnishing carbon fibre for UV protection I’ve had excellent results with Hempel Diamond, but doesn’t have any give in it so I don’t use it on wooden boats.

I only use the recommended thinners and use a base coat for all varnishing, used to use UCP before it was banned but now use a Clear Epoxy Penetrating Sealer as a primer then apply the first coat just before the CPES has fully cured as this bonds the varnish into the timber.

Don’t need to go to so much trouble with models but I start with a few coats 50:50 thinned then gradually knock back the percentage of thinners, I never use an unthinned coat, even the last coats have 5+% thinners.

I spent 20 years with a converted cow shed as a workshop, with no heating so i was used to varnishing and painting in less than ideal conditions, probably why I stick to using Schooner even though I now have a warmer and drier workshop now, with a beer fridge.

For the final coat I always hope for a dust free day, have even wetted the floor down, apply it and walk away.

Should have said I use a degreaser and tac rags when doing the final coats as there will always be dust.

If you are going to cut back the final coat with 1000/2000 grit wet and dry and even polish it leave the varnish to harden. I leave at least a week or two for any final fiddling if it is needed.

I always paint and varnish under quite harsh fluorescent tubes, they show every imperfection, so if I get it to look ok under the harsh lighting it means it’ll look fine in daylight.

http://www.cvrda.org/idiots-guide-to-varnishing/

Use à 2 component varnish

I cant tell you what to do with varnish as I use spray for mine and wet&dry between coats as for glue I find Gorrilla crystal clear contact adhesive works for me