Hey there Ron! yessir, but not by much...the 1:200 Iowa is 53 inches long while this Sterling Models kit is 55 inches long.
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Your freighter here is much larger than the 1/200 warship model . I do like the floor tiles idea you are using for the open flat bottomed freighter hull.

I tend to go nuts with the ballast down the middle. I like the brass bar down the keel used by other builders here, but in my case it's bathroom tiles cut and cemented down equally for balance. I use this sort of stuff from the Home Depot. Not perfect, but it's helped.
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I forwarded the idea to someone else today too along with these photos.
I suggested using a 1/4” carriage bolt. grind off the round top to make it flat. Glue it to the bottom of the hull, add a fishing weight or a nut of a larger size and a washer with a nut of the proper size on the bottom.

You might also add a brass skeg to give added directional stability

Ronald, thanks for the sketch. I hav a tug that "wallows in a heavy dew". ( My Dad served in RCN in WW2 and that's what he said abt corvettes. ) I think I might follow your sketch.
Originally it had a floodable chamber but after one rollover I just increased the solid ballast but then it rolled again. I think the fire tower on the superstructure is just too much sail. And the solid ballast probably need to be secured even lower in the bilge.

I was initially going to use a keel bolted to the underside of my Fisherman motor sailer but was talked out of it as the forces acting on the hull from the sails and keel can be large in strong winds.

In some ways I wish I had stuck with it as I'm sure I could have made it work as the sail area is relatively small but hey ho and I went with a drop- keel with bulb.

With a powered boat I wouldn't have any hesitation with using a bolt on weight or keel due to the lower forces involved. If not too much weight is required I know of wheel balancing weights being used.

Ross I have heard no response after my little sketch, but give it a few more days.

What you are doing is different from the one I sketched and you are doing it on a Sailing vessel not a powered ship model with two motors.

WOE IS ME!

Does this mean someone else has already patented this?!?

In this case, it will have a fixed ballast bulb distance and the locknut will be INSIDE the hull. Fin size could be up to 45cm in length.

The plan is to use the short extended tube into the base of the display stand for added stabiity in storage/display mode

Okay no pictures. How about a sketch?

Is this about right?

Ron, I did this 15 or so years ago, so no photos, and the chap who owned the boat is long dead. .

If the original was to have stabilisers on the hull sides you can build them in and connect up to an ec aircraft gyro. Once at cruise speed the gyro will automatically stabilise the hull

Those are the best pictures I have right now in the original post but will try to take some new ones showing the hull.

A couple pictures of this will help those who are visual learners. (Me)😀

A friend had a similar problem with a Gearing class destroyer. My solution, which worked perfectly. I glassed a threaded brass fitting into the underside of the hull, flush with the outside. Next I threaded some 10mm brass rod to screw into the previously fitted threaded bush with a longer thread on the lower end. A brass weight was threaded to suit the rod. The rod screws into the hull, a nut is wound up the longer part of the rod, followed by the brass weight and then a locknut. The weight can be "fine tuned" on the rod for optimum balance. I hope you can understand my ramblings. It would help to reduce top weight, hollow out turrets, superstructure and any other gert lumps of wood high up the superstructure...