HI Westquay
Welcome to the site.
... I have a Double Special which is similar to your motor but is reversible by means of changing one wire between two contacts. I have never used the motor in a radio control model and do not know if it is possible to use a standard speed controller. I suspect you would need some form of current rather than voltage control to avoid the motor from overheating at low voltage. ...
Dave

Use a standard speed controlled with a rectifier, or twin diodes.

http://taycol.hobby-site.com/install.html refers...

My son just won us a nice hull (Huntsman style) with a working MacGregor Digimac in it. Result for the Crash Tender!
So now we have revamped Taycol Supermarine AND some retro if not exact period R/C for it. I'll be using a rheostat speed unit as I ain't paying those prices for a 'tronic one!
I bought a copy of Model Boats mag and nearly fell off my chair when I learned what is charged for stuff.

I shall also be making a suitable prop. We lost the original brass one. So I'll knock one up and silver solder it.

Cheers,
Westquay

Well, I took the old motor out of the model for the first time since it went in 47 years ago and realised it was just dirty.
I started to take it apart and clean it all. A pleasure since the engineering is beautiful and all English.
The shaft is supported on three layers of Paxolin and a felt washer! Yet after all those years was in superb condition, like new.

I have a choice of wiring diagrams from Derek Round a radio ham from Bradford who kindly sent me details of a DPDT switched version or a diode bridge version which will allow the use of a modern ESC. Unfortunately I ain't paying more for a speed controller than a bloomin entire R/C system!
Havinh bought a copy of Model Boats mag. for the first time in yonks I am staggered by the cost of everything.
I wouldn't dream of spending that much on myself!
I notice also that MFA drills advertise a complete pack of power bits including a good old rheostat, so they can't be that bad. it looks like the guts of my old MRRC slot car controller of which I have a few, so I'll be using that with suitable wiring to give a simple reverse. using the DPDT switch system. The diodes use up valuable volts. They did that on my real boat so I used a manual switch there too.

Photos of the restoration of the Taycol soon. it's coming up like new!
Cheers,
Westquay

Hi, thanks for your reply. I realise heat is the enemy of rheostat control, but I am looking for period control of a period motor, original fitment in a period (nearly 50 year old) boat. The motor is a Taycol, not Tyco. it is field wound (?)

If I were building new, I would of course, consider new equipment, though I know nothing of it or its cost, having been out of R/C for years.

Building an old fashioned controller, as long as it is mechanical with no electronics beyond what I can be directed to use is no problem.
I have a contact who can lead me by the nose on this now, so watch this space, though all suggestions gratefully received and any old R/C for the project even more gratefully received in exchange for modelmaking services, (my trade).
Regards,
Westquay

Hi,

It would take very little circuitry using an old rheostat and a reversing switch. However you will be wasting a lot of power as heat rather than running time.

Having been an electronics engineer for many years I could design the Tx, Rx, and motor speed control circuits but I do not as the quality and prices of items these days are fantastic.

I have in front of me a Tornado Waterproof 50 A Marine Speed Controller from www.tornadoorc.com also Viper Marine 40 Amp from www.mtroniks.net - either of these should handle the Volts and Currents you need - unless someone on here knows a specific problem with Tyco motors that I amn unaware of.

I would suggest you have a go; if not you have a controller for your next build.

HI guys thanks,
I will no doubt keep the questions coming, mainly that old chestnut about the Taycol motors and how to reverse and control their speed.
Does the same problem obtain with the smaller Taycols?

I'm thinking a good old rheostat for a speed controller. And maybe some clever brass and Tufnol creation to reverse switch it. Those I can make, but the eelctrics, no!

Cheers,
West Quay

HI WestQuay ( 😀 ) welcome to THE place for Fireboat info, keep the questions coming!

Paul

HI Dave,
many thanks for your reply. Twas as I'd feared! My dad was a good electrician, but reversing the old Taycol always defeated him. And I'm clueless where electrics are concerned.
I'll check up on the capacitor suppression thing, but all I can do is experiment with reversing. I suppose speed could just be done by tappings from the batteries. Though I'd prefer a smoother control. I'm not a speed merchant and much prefer models to move at a scale rate with equally scale motion, acceleration, etc.
Thinking about it, maybe reverse ain't all it's cracked up to be. I doubt if you'd have seen Boats 93 and 94 doing much backuds!
If anything occurs to you or you think of anyone who might have some Frankenstein circuitry lurking somewhere, let me know.
Maybe I must drag the old books out again which show Taycols as current motors.
Cheers,
Westquay

HI Westquay
Further to my reply yesterday I found my Taycol and powered it up. Current free running is less than I remembered and showed 1.9 amps. The sparks were there as I remember and also lots of oil is ejected from the bearings. As you say the sound is quite unique. A simple stall test gave 9+ amps on 12v and about the same on 6v. Hope this helps
Dave

HI Westquay
Welcome to the site.
The Taycol Supermarine Special is a fine motor from the 1960's. For its day it was one of the best and powered many model boats. However radio control was not as common then and many were used as straight runners with no radio. Control was by a simple switch or relay and speed control was not normally available other than using a lower or higher voltage. Current was high (3-5 amps unloaded not being uncommon) as the motor uses coils to form an electro magnet in place of the magnets found in more recent motors. The brushes are copper mesh and whilst they work well they are a major source of sparks which will cause you all sorts of interference problems with modern radio control receivers. I have a Double Special which is similar to your motor but is reversible by means of changing one wire between two contacts. I have never used the motor in a radio control model and do not know if it is possible to use a standard speed controller. I suspect you would need some form of current rather than voltage control to avoid the motor from overheating at low voltage. if my memory is correct the Wattage was 96 so current would be 8 amp at 12v or 16 amp at 6v. Given the motor weight high value Nicads would probably be best. Keep the radio and signal leads well away from the motor which you will need to suppress with capacitors- see All Thing R.C. on this site for details. Good luck and please post again when you get it working.
Dave