Hi Wayne

I have used this bonding agent and yes it is expensive. This glue is in a technically superior league to mist products out there. I understand that it is an acrylic glue. I have even used it to bond a nod laminate metals very effectively. it is also very effective when bonding to plastics. Yes it is expensive but it is an excellent glue which out performs anything else I have used.

Regards
Kevin

Hi Doug,
this is going off in a tangent but I bet you also had the built holes that could be stuck to your window ,not sure which petrol company they were from but it was something to do with the untouchables

I had one on my Rover 2000, hanging out of the tank filler 😁
Started with one on my Vespa GS 160 😉

my dad had a tigers tail hanging from his rear veiw mirror of his rover 100 i think you got so many points for each gallon of petrol ,he had the tail for so long it was sun bleached until it was an albino not an easy thing to do in sunny Scotland

Or the children of the 50s - teenagers of the 60s - like me 😉

they used to say that you got better milage with a tiger in your tank ,theres one for the children of the 60s

It's a LCM3 made wider so a 1/16 Tiger tank will fit, why not I say😂
I'm sure someone will have something to say if it has a Tiger on board..
Cheers
Wayne

I was thinking of a few drops of nitroglycerine myself 😉
Busy busy busy😋
Any chance of a trial of the K7 itself before Donald (Quack quack) is finished?
Any pics of the LC?? A swimming Sherman on board?? One of the 'Follies' that worked, at least on the British beaches, the Americans at Omaha had less luck with them🤔
Re the Diabolo: they must have had a reason for specifying self tappers, now you've found it 😉 Hope you didn't glue the E-box in with Stab Express 😡
Re China: some bits arrive amazingly fast, some never 😭
For me it was only a €3 part on a bigger Amazon order so after 1 unanswered Email I let it go - life's too short. Struck 'em off my Preferred supplier list!
Happy buttering, cheers Doug 😎
BTW: for users of Robbe kits and bits Krick has taken over their whole marine range, marketed as RoMarin. in Germany delivery is usually the day after ordering😊 Today my new Raboesch brass props for Belfast, Graf Spee and Sea Scout as well as Ezekote and some other bits & pieces ordered from Krick only yesterday arrived by DHL, 5 stars for service 😊 No excuse now 🤔
http://www.krickshop.de/

I think those doublers will need explosives to get them off...
I've hit a bit of a roadblock with the big K7, I need to get Donald built up so I can position the steering wheel & dash correctly, the animatronic resin upper torso & arms I bought came with no instructions or info on what servos to use. I got some micro servos & they didn't fit, Dremel out & all fits now but I'm now struggling with connecting the servo arm to the rotating neck. I'll suss it out eventually but I need a rest.
I've been doing bits on my 1/12 scale K7 in the background, if all goes well it should be ready for paint in a couple of weeks.
As normal I've been waiting for parts to arrive from China, the brushless motor & esc arrived today for the blue rigger, I can make a start on that soon..
I've just finished printing the parts for the cabin for a Springer tug hull I got from Sonar & I've just started printing the first parts of a WW2 landing craft, its 1/16 scale nearly a metre long, I guess I'll be making a tank for it when it's completed.
Then there's the Robbe Diabolo, on the instructions it says to use self tapping screws to hold the plastic dual rudders in place. No good to me as I've upgraded to dual aluminium rudders, these buggers need bolts!
Trouble is the waterproof electronics box is used as a doubler for the central transom, when it's glued into place there isn't any room to access where the rudder bolts come through the doublers, ohhh the joy of problem solving....
So I'm keeping busy but my butter is spread a bit too thin.
Cheers
Wayne

Hi Wayne
You must be a rich man if you are mixing that much. Unlike other resins Stabilit attaches its-self into the surfaces being joined so any round the edges is un-necessary and should be wiped away with a wet rag. Once fully set it can be machines or Dremeled away.
Doug is so right about a correctly made joint and I do hope you never ever need to remove the doublers.
Dave

But it'll hold a brick ****house together 😉
How's the K7 getting on?
Cheers Doug😎

It's a proper manky colour too👍

Doh! Now you tell me haha😂
I've just used it to attach the doublers to the inside of the transom, so luckily it's out of the way. I'll have to be really careful when I glue in the motor mount though.
Thanks
Wayne

Tip: it's a nightmare to remove the excess, especially if you let it harden first. Be very careful where it goes.
Have fun, Glyn.

Thanks for the info Dave, it's only money but well spent I think👍
Cheers
Wayne

Hi Wayne
This was always the best way to glue the Robbe range of fuselages when I used to build and fly model planes. it is specially formulated for the type of plastic used by Robbe and others. Used correctly it is hard to fault. it has a unique smell not dissimilar to some of the stuff my dentist uses when filling my cavities!
The good news is an equivalent is available from The Model Shop Leeds
http://www.modelshopleeds.co.uk/catalog/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=uhu+plus+acrylit
Cost is less than a tenner and it is as good as the Stabilit Express.
It's a solvent type glue and gives the strongest joints. This is a tube of resin plus a small tub of powder but check as there are similar UHU products with two tubes which may not be the same.
For the strongest joints it's hard to beat and I never had a failed joint in all my years of flying.
Hope this helps
Dave

maybe the companies have a tie up, it appears to just be a 2 part apoxy