Copy the plans using tiling method and adjust to size on the printer.Use Plastic Magic for glue . I've not found a plastic it won't stick. Years ago a friendly chemist would sell a couple of ounces of Chloroform (Ether too for diesel fuel )to stick your Airfix, Revell etc kit together. A good joint and a drop of liquid from a fine bush will run right in .P M the same.👍😉

A couple of pics.

Hi spitiresooty, on the starboard side there is a staircase from the bridge deck down to the fore deck near the crane. on the port side there is a ladder from the roof of the bridge down to the bridge deck. This ladder is fixed to the bridge wall in front of the portside funnel.
Hope this helps.

Here you are - the Official Build Photos, 😎
Click on the Icon to open. Then click Download in the top left corner.
(Trying out my new-found knowledge of PDF handling here😉 Thanks Rob 👍)

hi liamduck .The bit that I am not sure of at the moment is looking at the bridge from the rear deck.There are ladders or steps down from the bridge at each side of the funnels ,down to a hatch with crane on one side.Any pictues of this bit would help -thanks

Hi, I am in the process of building the Happy Hunter now. I have had it in my loft for some years until I got time to build it.
I would be happy to post pics of the plans if that would help. the plans show details of sub assemblies too.
Hope that helps.😊

Hi Dave, fortunately it disappeared fairly soon after I started practical engineering, was banned as a manual solvent cleaning agent in it's pure form, as we had it😡
Often wondered if such things in my early working days could account for some of my 'little eccentricities' 😉

Hi Doug
I agree the commercial stuff is not nice.
I was suggesting the hobby plastic weld solvents freely available and used by fine scale modellers for joining plastic kits etc.
It is sold under a variety of names, the SHG catalogue lists:
PLAS1
Plasweld – Liquid Polystyrene solvent adhesive
Plasweld special solvent weld will bond Styrene, ABS, Butyrate, Acrylic and other
types of plastic materials. Easy to apply using a brush.
Bonds in seconds. The Ultimate Plastic Building Tool , 50ml bottle
2.00
POLY3L Precision Poly cement 28ml with needle applicator 3.25
POLY4 Polystyrene Cement 12ml tube 2.00
POLY4L Mek Poly Liquid Polystyrene Cement 30ml Bottle 2.75
PLAS7 Plastic filler. Special filler for plastic modelling 2.50.

There are many other suppliers in the UK and overseas.

Like most glues it is recommended that you work in a well ventilated area and avoid breathing the vapours as far as possible.

I do hope you weren't exposed to the substance for too long!

Careful with the MEK🤔 Ketones are dodgy, if you breathe the fumes at best it can give you a headache. Longer exposure is not good for the lungs and it sends glue sniffers round the twist. Use in well ventilated space!
They are highly volatile (why it sets so fast!) and carcinogenic 😲
We used to use Methyl-ethyl-ketone many moons ago for cleaning circuit boards, I only had to be in the room with the stuff to get a migraine😡
Cheers Doug 😎

Glad it helped 😊😎

Spitfire
With plasticard it helps to heat in warm water when forming curves. Make a wooden (Balsa) template heat the plasticard, bend to shape and hold in place until cool.
I recommend you use MEK plastic adhesive with plasticard, the merest touch will allow capillary action to carry the liquid between the joints, I use a fine (old) paint brush. The glue is quick drying and actually welds the joint. Like superglue a little is best, too much and you risk melting the whole job.

The link to the Krick pdf drawing gives all the templates for the superstructure. Should be an easy job to put into a CAD program and produce full size templates.
Very good set of instructions, should help even the novice builder.

You do know that you have to cool a 'superconductor' close to 0° Kelvin (-273°C) to make it work !? 😉😁
(Stupid auto dictionaries - switch off the Auto typing correction!!)

Glad to see you can make progress 👍

the superconductor is coming on ok just using photos and adjusting the scale .I,ve used a snake for the steering as ther doen't seem to be enough room for a servo near to the rudders .I,ve found a small motor in my bits and fitted that to the bow thrusters.I,e had the radio connected to and everything seems to work ok so 'i've glued the deck in place .I need to put some strengtheners in the main cabin as it will need to support the mast assembly.
I am stuggling to get the curved bits right for the bow and the front of the bridge but will get it right eventually

Spitfire, try contacting Krick direct, they may sell you just the superstructure part of the kit???

Mark

Hi spitfire, have a look at this, not a plan exactly but detailed photos of the construction and at the end drawings of the laser cut parts. You may have to do a little work: measuring up what you've got and scaling up. But then you'll have templates for all the bits. Have fun, Doug 😎

www.krick-modell.de/shopfachhandel/Texte/ro1106 Happy Hunter Bilder+Lasertafeln zur Anleitungkl.pdf
Or here for the kit description and link to the build info.
http://www.krickshop.de/Products/News-2017/New-Items-2016/Happy-Hunter-Salvage-Tug-Kit.htm?shop=krick_e&a=article&ProdNr=ro1106&p=21061
Click on 'Documents' and then
'Construction stage photos for the kit Happy Hunter from romarin'