Hi Doug,

I'm going to work on the Brooklyn's light's.
After I complete her! The wires are going to be in her main cabin.
So, will work on the lights last! Will be using two 9 volts for two separate lights!👍

That's the diagram I have been working to Pete,
Was also surprised to hear red for the anchor light, but Ed has worked on tugs!? Your boat, your choice!
Cheers and G'night All, Doug

Hi:

Thanks for your input. I got my data for mast light colors from the US Coast Guard website. According to the USCG all of the lights on the mast except the Stern Light should be white. The Stern Light is should to be yellow. After I found that information I browsed the web for a mast navigation light layout. I found a shipbuilder’s site that had an excellent general arrangement drawing for a tug’s which matches the USCG requirements. An enlargement of the mast is attached. I think I posted the sketch in an earlier post but I’m not sure.

Thanks,
Pete

Evenin' John O/T,
Can you breathe again now!? 😉
Hope I was in time!
Cheers, Doug 😎

Muchas gracias Ed 👍
Gen straight from the 'horse's mouth', so to speak 😉
How's your 'Brooklyn' lighting coming on?
Cheers, Doug

Hi Guy's,

R2 should be RED not WHITE!
Top most light on the Mast!
Anchor lights are RED and their arc of view is 360 degree's!

Hi Pete, Hope the eyeballs are better 👍
Think I've now got the ultimate configuration 😊 (or the possible, tentative, subject to committee approval and board resolution, potential penultimate configuration 😲) See attached pdf. All new stuff is in red.
Thinking is as follows, according to the mast diagram you sent me-
L3; NAV & Towing in parallel 2 ccts; one for the port & stbd in the cabin roof, one for the white rear NAV & Towing, yellow, on the mast pointing aft.
L4; 2 white deck working lights plus new LED for the cabin light - white or yellow/amber. Your choice. I might be inclined to go for yellow as bridge lighting tends to be not too bright so it doesn't impair the night vision of the watch. Could be why it was a bulb in the first place - softer light ?
R2; Anchor light at mast top only. Makes no sense to combine with running (NAV) lights etc.
R3; The three new white running lights on the mast pointing forward.
L2 and R4 remain as they are for searchlight and horn.

Now working on the corresponding wiring sketch.
More tomorrow.
Cheers, Doug 😎

Sounds like Albert Einstein's ghost!! 😲

Get well soon 👍

If you are happy with the arrangement in my table I'll knock up a wiring sketch for it.
All the best, Doug 😎
PS: I used the MacAffee 'washing machine' to scrub the electrons before displaying your message 😁😁

Thanks Doug. You’re amazing!

Somehow I’ve managed to pick up The Curse Of The Pink Eye. I can see OK this morning so I’m replying quickly before The Goo blinds me again. Over the weekend I went through a cycle of “blink, blink, blink...I can see again! I can SEE!!...blink...I’M BLIND!!...blink, blink..., repeat. A few minutes ago I looked in the bathroom mirror & saw a hideous monster with horrible red eyes & wild gray hair. I’m definitely NOT going in there again! it’s the powder room for me today. I don’t know what that thing is but they should put his face on medicine bottles & toxic household chemicals to frighten children.

Thanks for your hard work, Doug. I’ll look at your results as soon as the yellow woodworker’s glue in my eyes runs out. I hope pink eye can’t be spread through cyberspace. Wash your hands thoroughly after reading this just in case. Here it comes!

Here the result for batt voltage (Vs) 7.2V, the 'nominal' voltage.
LEDs should still 'strike' but will be a little dimmer. Esp fore and aft Nav lights.
The resistors were chosen to (hopefully) prevent the LEDs from blowing at fully charged 7.7 - 8V.
The additional lights triple the current consumption, but at a max of around 300mA max it shouldn't affect your run time noticeably, esp. if, like me, you are going to beef up the battery to about 2Ah or more.
Cheers, Doug 😎

Evenin' Pete, first instalment coming shortly in pdf format.
A table, based on your excellent sketches of what you want to do, showing control element on the TX, function, number of LEDs in the cct or ccts, resistor(s) needed, current consumed, for various battery voltages.
Example attached as jpg pic.
Based on your measurements I am assuming that the searchlight is a 3V high brightness LED and all the others are 2V LEDs, and nominal current 20mA.
This means that with a nominal 7.2V supply (Vs) for some circuits with 3 or 4 LEDs two parallel ccts will be needed. All will shortly be revealed 😉
I have optimised the resistors so that
a) the LEDs don't fry when the batt is fully charged, 8V,
b) that the LEDs can still turn on when the batt voltage dips to the 7.2V nominal.
c) Only 2 or 3 values will be needed.
Now have to convert my Excel file to pdf.
Will follow this up with wiring suggestions, including the little Distribution Board with the resistors.
I've tried to combine the lights you want logically considering how they would be used on the real ship.
Stay tuned! Cheers, Doug 😎
BTW; the mods and resistors suggested in the table mean that the existing SMD resistors on the ccts board must be shorted / replaced with wire. Your wrapping wire (stripped of course!) will be ideal for this😉
Hope you have a small soldering bit!

You might find your wire here at the componentshop https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=componentshop&oq=componentshop&aqs=chrome..69i57j69i60j0l4.12080j0j4&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8
It's worth getting their catalogue. Brilliant service I can really recommend them. Good prices and quality with fast turnaround.

I think you just took my basic idea to the 'next level' Pete 👍👍
BTW: Like your 'Footnote', 'Three Men in A Boat' 😁😁

Doug:

I was thinking along the same vein for the wiring in the mast; a common “buss” for the LED grounds. Sure would make the installation a bit easier. I like your socket idea a lot. I was considering a wiring conduit running up the space between the rear windows in the Pilot House & up into the mast, which would be glued to its mounting bracket on the roof. But it would be great to build the mast as a plug-in unit that could be removed for transit. You da man!

Agree Pete,
But then telephone wires come as twisted pairs (to minimise induced interference) which gives them additional strength (and bulk🤔).
Your wiring looks to me to be about 24 gauge.
I also agree with space in the mast, had also pondered that while looking at my Southampton. Came to the conclusion that I would use the tiny wrapping wire (as U lot call it😉) down the mast and into a socket permanently glued under the cabin. Then use flexible stranded wire from then on down to the electronickery! Then there's no strain on the fragile wiring when you remove the cabin for maintenance etc.
That light 'wrapping' wire is fine for the LED circuits as they only take a few tens of milliamps. I'm also looking at the possibility to use a common return (negative) lead to minimise the wires needed on the mast itself.

I buy my wire Online as well, almost no shops left where you can go an look at stuff🤔 Was surprised and disappointed at the limited choice at Radio Shack, pretty miserable compared with the range I can get here from Conrad, and many others, even Krick Modellbau.

I'm multiplexing my projects with yours, and others who have approached me by PM. Trouble is I can never resist a challenge!
What I'm doing for your Richardson will also be the basis for some mods to my Southampton😉
Anyone know a good 'Cloning Shop'? 😁😁
Big 3D printer and an isaac Asimov Positronic brain perhaps?
Cheers All, Doug 😎

Hi, Doug:

Wrapping wire is an option only if “normal” stranded/insulated wires won’t fit inside the mast. I don’t like to use single conductor wire for anything unless it’s for industry-standard applications like telephone wiring.

I asked if you had any idea what gauge the existing tug wiring is so that I can buy the same gauge for my project. I have to order things like small gauge wire, LEDs, resistors, etc. because there aren’t any shops where I can take in a sample of existing wire to compare with what’s on the shelf.

Oh, boy. As I’m typing this it suddenly just dawned on me that I can mike the existing wire O.D. to find the gauge...DUH!!

I’m looking forward to your instructions for my project but please don’t push your own interests aside for me.

Thanks,
Pete

Evenin' Pete,
Not AWOL at all, haven't noticed that you were AWOL before either!)
The connectors are an excellent idea, as already briefly discussed.
Don't use the wrapping wire for the Smoker though. That wire is only good for about 500mA and the smoker probably takes more.

The lighting mods you want are possible, so hang on with the connectors until I've got the 'How' finished! Cos some of the lighting wires will be diverted through a new distribution board with the appropriate resistors, as we also discussed.
Will do my best to get the instructions finished tomorrow.
Cheers, Doug

Hi, Doug:

Thank you once again for answering my questions. I especially like your response & comments about HE tug’s factory-installed motors. I think the “heart of the machine” for my tug is perfectly fine. I’d rather add detail to the model, over time & within reason, to make the boat look as realistic as possible without becoming so delicate that I’d be afraid to put it in the car for a drive to the lake.

Continuing on, I’d like to get your comments about my latest idea for adding connectors to the wiring that runs from my tug’s circuit board to the various lights & components in the deck house & pilot house.

This is something I can do with or without my proposed new LED Mast Navigation Lights to add the convenience of being able to completely disconnect & separate the Deck House/Pilot House from the circuit board/Deck House bottom cover assembly. This will make detailing the upper works much easier because it won’t be tethered to the circuit board by (16) wires.

The circuit board holes where the (10) Search Light, Port & Starboard Sidelight & Aft Deck Light wires are soldered are equally spaced at 0.10” (2.5mm). I can tag & desolder the wires, insert a 10-pin HS male socket & solder it to the board. Then I can connect the wires to the male plug. I can do the same thing with the (6) wires that run to the Pilot House Light, Smoke Generator & Smoke Pump.

What do you think? if you find that powering & controlling the new LED Navigation Lights on the Mast the way I’d like to can’t be done, the circuit board connectors still make sense.

Or am I AWOL from reality...again?

Thanks,
Pete

OK John, just warn me when you start turning blue 😁
Got a bit bogged down with other snags!
At least we managed to clear up Martin's little mystery 😉
More velly soon (must be using too much Chinese stuff😊)

I wait with bated breath so come on Doug or I'll suffocate 😁😁👍

Hi Pete,
since you are in the US try here, the OTHER RS😉:-
https://www.radioshack.com/pages/search-results?findify_limit=24&findify_q=wrapping%20wire
Personally I prefer stranded wire as it is more flexible and less prone to break if you often have to remove and remake connections, like when you take the cabin off! it's slightly thicker so it's more a question of 'Will it fit?'
https://www.radioshack.com/products/22-gauge-hookup-wire-3-pack-25-feet-red-black-green
Some model shops have (or used to!) a really thin stranded wire, as used for tiny 'rice grain' bulbs'.
2nd question:
I assume your tug has an 800mAh NiMh battery like mine did. Correct me if I'm wrong, I don't know the new models.
I propose to change mine for a 2200mAh NiMh. Can't use LiPo cos the Brushed ESC isn't LiPo safe; i.e. with built in cut off if the battery falls to 3.0V per cell - lowest safe LiPo discharge voltage.
3rd Question - changing motors; I've often wondered that!😲
Up to now I don't see any reason to. Maybe those guys want to enter Towing Competitions!? I don't.
Also some folks are just not happy unless they are tinkering and 'improving' 😉
I might try to quieten the gearbox down a bit though 🤔 Teflon grease perhaps!?
Cheers, Doug 😎

Hi Pittsfieldpete,

I use really tiny wire for wiring running lights!
Bought it as radio shack years ago!
Wire wrapping wire is the best to use.
Especially when you can't hide the wire!
Paint black or what ever color your using.
Best thing from a distance you can't tell!👍

Cheers, Ed

Hi
I got 50mts from when I was at work and so far I still have some 45+ left.

In the past I have used telephone/alarm wire and that has worked well.

Fred

before you use RS to buy your wrapping wire you might like to look here

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/0-25mm-30AWG-Insulated-Silver-Plated-Single-Core-Copper-PCB-Kynar-Wrapping-Wire/122010525608?hash=item1c6864dfa8:m:mSSbrt6-g4kFAe2TYtm4QGg

I didn't realise anyone was still making wire wrapping supplies.

Hi Pittsfieldpete,

I ordered these LED's. it's quite a large assortment!
They arrived about two weeks later!
I think they will help you with your Robertson Tug!

https://us.banggood.com/Wholesale-Warehouse-375pcs-3MM-5MM-LED-Light-emitting-Diode-Beads-Resistance-Lights-Kits-Bulb-Lamp-wp-Usa-1027601.html

Also you'll have LED's for any project!

Cheers' Ed

Hello, Fred:

Thank you very much for your information about wrapping wire. That kind of wire will be easy to conceal inside the Richardson’s mast en route to each of the six mast-mounted LED navigation lights I hope to use. Excellent!

Thanks again!
Pete

Hi Pittsfieldpete

I use 30awg wrapping wire for my LED's the RS stock number is 209-4849 Black they also do it in red.
Hope that this is of some help.
Fred

Hello, Doug:

Are you doing OK? I sincerely hope so. 🙏🏼

Three questions have come up as a result of my searches on MB for information about & photos of Hobby Engine’s various tugs.

First, when you have the time, will you please look at the wires that run from the circuit board up to the pilot house LEDs & ceiling light & let me know what gauge you think they are? I’ll need to get wire of the same gauge for my LED mast lighht connections, (assuming it can be done at all).

Second, I would like to get a new 7.2V battery with a much higher amp-hour rating. Can I simply get a higher capacity battery & charger to do this as long as I stay with 7.2v?

Last, the factory motors in the HE tugs seem to be quite robust & powerful. Why does it seem like most boaters can’t wait to replace them?

Thanks,
Pete

OK. Good, that's all I need to know 👍
Now to put new batteries in me calculator 😁
BTW: I know soccer isn't exactly THE game over there, BUT
England are playing in the World Cup tonight, wish 'em luck - they might need it 😉 Ciao, Doug 😎

Doug:

Yes, sir. I should’ve written “8.08V” next to the “+” but I missed it.

Pete

😁
"Who's on first base?"
"Yes."
"What"?
"No, What's on second."
"Who?"
"No, What. Who's on first."
"!***!!***!" 😡

BTW: thanks for the input voltage 👍
Is that the same value where you have marked '+' on the sketch?
Cheers, Doug 😎
c

Hi, Doug:

Sorry about that. Where power enters the circuit board the reading is 8.08 volts, same as the 7.2V battery pack when it’s fully charged.

That sounds like something from an Abbott & Costello routine!





😎😎

Hi Pete, many thanks, good work 👍
Just one question; What was the battery voltage?

GF about to drag me out to the Shopping Mall 🤔 so more this evening.
Cheers, Doug 😎

Hey Doug!

I’ve finally finished the long-awaited sketch! I’m sorry it took me so long but I had to work under very adverse conditions. Nearly every time I sat down to work on it one of my wife’s friends would drop in for a visit & there isn’t enough light in the closet to sketch by.

Anyway, the sketch is attached. I verified that all four of the boat’s exterior lights are LEDs. The pilot house interior light is a light bulb as I’ve said before. You asked before if it’d be possible to replace the bulb with an LED. it can be done so I noted the bulb’s supply voltage on the sketch, too. Both wires running to the bulb are white (labelled “WHT” on the sketch).

The Aft Deck light LEDs look crystal-clear when they’re turned off, but when they’re turned on they light up yellow! I didn’t expect that because the Port & Starboard Sidelight LEDs are red & green respectively when they’re turned off. The Search Light LED is clear when it’s off & white when it’s on.

I hope the sketch is helpful. As I said in my last post I couldn’t get the voltage readings on the SMD resistor inputs, but I wrote their 3-digit numbers & my stab at their values in my last post, too.

I hope the nomenclature I used on the sketch is somewhat like what you’re used to. Being a mechanical guy I never did any electrical or electronics drawings so I just took a stab at it for the sketch. if you have questions or need anything else just ask.

Thanks again,
Pete

Hi, Doug:

I managed to measure voltages at the outputs for each LED as well as the the bulb in the pilot house. However, I couldn’t measure voltages on the “input” of the five LED resistors. From what I found by searching on line these resistors are the “SMD” (Surface Mounted Device) type. They’re about the size of two amoebas & I just couldn’t see them well enough. it would be easier to give a gnat a colonoscopy than it would be to get the probe of my multimeter in the right spots. But in the enlarged photos I took of those resistors I could actually read the three digit numbers printed on each one. One of them is numbered “221” & the other four are numbered “331”. I’ll defer to your expertise if I’m wrong, but by using a nifty calculator that I found on line I figured out that “221” = 220 ohms /-5% & “331” = 330 ohms /-5%. Are these values correct? Will you be able to proceed by using the published resistor values in the absence of the resistor “input” voltages that I’m not able to measure? I sure hope so. Please let me know if the resistor data I found is correct or if I’m way off. My sketch is almost done & I’ll get it to you shortly. Thanks very much.

Hi Pete,
Number 1, Get yourself some more batteries! You'll want a spare at the pond anyway 😉
Better still, get a variable mains power supply for such bench tests so you don't have to mess with batteries until you're on the pond!
Here in Munich I got a Basetech 30V 5A regulated PSU for less then the price of a decent boat kit. See 2nd pic, shows mine during my test of a converted field coil motor to make it run forwards and backwards.
it saves a lot of faffing about with batteries for a quick test of a circuit😉 Get one where you can set a current limit down to mAmps so you don't risk blowing components, e.g. LEDs!
Re Connectors: if you are going to make a little distribution board for the lights then why not use this for all connections to the superstructure?
I.e. first solder all the wires from the circuit board into the input end of your Veroboard.
At the output end solder a strip of 1/10" pitch connector pins. Try Radio Shack!
For each output to lamps, smoker etc you can then use the little 2 pin JST plugs. See pic. Type JST-RCY. Try Googling them.
Sure you can get these from any half decent Online RC supplies shop over there. They are often used in Park Flyer planes etc.
Doing it that way you only have half the wires to squash into the tiny plugs 😉
As soon as we have the voltage readings we can work out the connections and resistors etc for your little board.
Happy measuring😁 Looking forward to your sketch. Cheers, Doug 😎

Hello, Doug:

I had everything ready to take the voltage readings this morning except for one minor detail: the 7.2v battery pack was dead so I had to plug it in to charge. it should be ready by mid-afternoon today. in the meantime I’ve got a few questions about connectors. As I said earlier I want to install connectors in the existing wiring that runs up into the deck house & pilot house. I’ll do the same with the new wiring that’ll go to the mast LEDs, too. I’d like to use miniature multi-conductor plugs & sockets with male & female conductors that solder onto the cut & stripped wires. Presently there are (10) wires for LED lighting, (2) for the pilot house lamp, (2) for the smoke generator & (2) for the smoke “blower” - (16) wires all together. At this point I don’t know how many wires there’ll be all together. Do you think a single connector for all of the wires is a good idea or would it be better to use several small connectors? Last of all, do you know of a source for small or miniature connectors? Radio Shack’s site lists connectors but they look too bulky. The conductor pins & sockets used with them appear to be designed for much larger gauge wires than the skinny wires in the tug. I’ve looked at several other sites but the technical nomenclature used for something as simple as connectors give me a headache. Help, please?

Sorry, my mistook🤔
Look forward to the sketch, cheers Doug 😎

Hi, Doug:

Somewhere along the way I must have messed up & given you some bad information. There are no connectors in any of the wiring that runs from the circuit board up into the deck house & pilot house. I think at some point I mentioned that I want to put connectors in the wiring which is probably what has caused the mixup. By installing connectors in the wiring I’d be able to completely remove the bottom cover of the deck house (with the circuit board attached to it) & move it safely aside without the risk of damaging the wiring. Then I’ll better access to the deck house interior if I ever need to work on anything inside. Anyway, I’ll use the needlepoint “+” probe on my pen-style multimeter to take all of the readings that are needed to avoid shorts. There are (5) pairs of wires soldered to the board that supply power & ground to the boat’s (4) LEDs & (1) bulb. I don’t think I’ll have any trouble getting the voltage measurements you need. I’ll get a sketch & voltage readings to you as soon as I can. Thanks again for your continued assistance.

Mornin' Pete (at least it is here!)
Yes, switch on only one light at a time to avoid any confusion with the readings. Easier to find the 'live one' then.
Socket means the connectors on the circuit board where you told me plugs from the superstructure wiring are connected , and as I saw in your photos.
First job is to trace all wires back from the existing lights and note them on your sketch. if any are directly soldered into the board the procedure is just the same as if it were a socket pin.
I'm particularly curious about the voltage to the bulb, and why it's a bulb in the first place.
Carefully check all other lights, if they are also bulbs we have a slightly different ball game. Still need the voltages though 😉
I guess we are all collectively responsible for the demise of local model shops and Radio Shacks and the like. We all want Rolls Royces and Cadillacs but are only prepared to pay Hyundai and Toyota prices, so we all (me too - Guilty as Charged🤔) buy online from HobbyKing and similar and the local shops starve. Simple economics. Model shop owners gotta eat too!
Sack time now in Munich, tomorrow (today😲) is another day, ciao, Doug 😎🤓

Thanks, Doug.

I’m pretty clear on how to proceed; thanks very much for your detailed instructions. Will you please clarify two things? As I “switch on each existing light in turn” to measure voltages as you describe, should I turn each light off before moving on to the next one or should I leave them turned on until all of the measurements are finished? Also, does “socket” refer to the locations on the board where the wires & components were originally inserted through holes & then soldered in place? I’ll check out the Radio Shack website you mentioned later this evening. I didn’t realize RS still existed as an internet retailer. Almost all of the RS stores here in the states closed in 2017. There was a Radio Shack store less than a half mile from my home that closed last year. Oh, well.

I ain't laughing Pete, it's a fair question (or two) 😉
1 Location: you're on the right track👍 A little distribution board, e.g. built on Veroboard, is a good tidy solution and simplifies any troubleshooting later. Put the resistors in the + lead to the LEDs.
2 Resistor size and heat: 1/8 or 1/4 W resistors will do nicely. Since they will only be passing 20 to 30mA they should not get hot. The size is about 3mmx 10mm. Allow 3 or 4mm at each end for the leads for flat mounting.
3 Values: Before we can determine these we will need to know what voltage is supplied to the dropping resistors on the circuit board just before the plug and socket connection to the lamp wire.
So you will have to do some testing with your multi-meter😲
before you pull anything apart make a sketch of the lamps connections to the board. Switch on your TX and RX - IN THAT ORDER PLEASE!
Switch on each existing light in turn and measure the volts at the socket on the board, referred to the negative of the main battery supply.
Then look for one of those teeny SMD resistors directly connected to the socket pin you've just measured and check the volts at both ends while the lamp is on. Note all these readings on your sketch.
Make a clear photo of this sketch and post it or PM me for my email address. doug-bell@t-online.de that might get deleted by the site system🤔 When we have these readings I can work out some suitable combinations to achieve what you want and minimise the number of different resistors. Basically I need to know if the full 7.2V of the main battery is switched to the resistor by the RX output! if not then what!?
Hope this makes sense 😉 Takes longer to describe than to do it !
Re sourcing: Try Radio Shack. I recently pointed another site colleague (figtree) in this direction for a similar project with his Brooklyn tug.
For instance-
https://www.radioshack.com/collections/resistors/products/500-piece-1-4-watt-carbon-film-resistor-assortment?variant=20332255301
This is a collection of so called preferred values, i.e. near enough standard values and cheap to produce by the millions.
For $7.50 it's got all the values you are likely to need for the next 10 years illuminated boating 😁
Cheers, Doug 😎🤓

Hi, Doug:

I’ve got a question about the resistors that’ll be needed for each of the six mast-mounted LED navigation lights. This may seem like a dumb question to an expert like you but please don’t laugh too hard. Anyway, do these resistors need to be installed as close as close as possible to the anode or can they be located some distance away, maybe as much as a foot or so? I don’t know yet what the value or physical size of the resistors will be but I’m pretty sure that the space inside the Richardson’s mast isn’t large enough to house the wiring for the LEDs & the resistors, too. if they can be installed farther away, I was thinking I could put the six resistors on a small board & install it inside the large cabin under the pilot house. When resistors are used in LED circuits do they get warm or even hot? if so, I can open up the dummy rectangular portholes & install black fine-mesh nylon screens in the openings. if heat isn’t a concern then I won’t sweat it (bad pun there, sorry). The hardest part of my project will probably be finding a good online source for the various electronic parts I’ll need. There used to be a great electronics supply store about two miles from my home. Coincidentally, that store was less than a block up the street from a hobby shop where I did business for almost fifty years. Now both stores are long gone. Sniff.

Wow! Hobby Engine’s tugs are nearly identical to the WYEFORCE. in fact, as you mentioned in one of your prior posts, the Southampton’s color scheme is very similar to the WYEFORCE as well. I measured the OAL of my Richardson & it comes up a little bit short of the “advertised” length of 22”. it actually measures 21-3/8” or 1.781’ [0.543m]. Using the inverse of 1:36 yields the OAL of the full-size boat: 1.781’ x 36 = 64.12’ [19.54m], which is 1.12’ [0.34m] longer than the 19.2m OAL stated for the WYEFORCE on marinetraffic.com. The length difference isn’t surprising because the “as-built” dimensions of fabricated steel ships, boats, barges, etc. can vary quite a bit from the original engineering design. The length stated for the WYEFORCE could be an estimate or events like ECOs (engineering change orders), field alterations & damage repairs could have affected the full-size tug’s OAL. in my 35 years as a mechanical/industrial designer I frequently dealt with machinery that varied from planned dimensions. I’m not a rivet counter & I doubt that most R/C boaters are either. it’s all about having fun, right? if the model looks right, it is right.

Enough said.

That's about right take a look at the real Wyeforce!
Guess 22" is where they thought the model should be at!
https://www.marinetraffic.com/en/ais/details/ships/235000813

Hey, Guys:

Do you know if this model is scaled from a real boat? There are photos-aplenty on the web of full-size boats that are similar to Hobby Engine’s design but I haven’t seen any that match 100%. At 1:36 scale & 22” (1.833’) OAL that means a full-size Atlantic/Richardson/Southampton would be 66’ long. That’s about right for a small harbor tug.

Hi Both, All the mouldings look identical to the Southampton and Richardson. The hull and stand are the same as my 'Southampton', the superstructure the same as the Richardson?, but with a red roof😆?
Maybe they ran out of grey and white plastic 😁

Hi Pete,

Not sure why the name plate says Southampton.
I've never seen the Atlantic before!
The controller that you see is the 27mhz unit
I know I have one in my spare parts bin!

Hi, Doug:

This morning while I was browsing Hobbytron.com (the site I bought my Richardson from) I stumbled upon another iteration of the tug called “Atlantic” (photos attached). I don’t remember seeing this version on the site back when I chose the Richardson. The overview photo shows a transmitter that’s different from mine; something other than 2.4ghz maybe? The display base has the name “Southampton” on it which adds to the confusion. I wonder if Hobby Engine any other boats besides the Atlantic/Richardson/Southampton trio & their assorted options or if there are others?

Pete

Thanks Pete👍 The row of 220 Ohm SMD resistors give a very good clue!
My 67 year old eyes let my Sony Cybershot take the strain 😉
Get back to you soon. it's sack time here in Munich now. "ZZZZZZZZZZZZ"
CU. Ciao, Doug 😎