"Then this 54 year old baby will be good for another 54."
Same with my Sea Scout. Question is - will we!? 🤔😁
Sounds like your Grandad and mine would have got on very well.
Mine was also a Master Carpenter and Cabinet Maker.
Made a lot of church furniture, amongst a lot of other beautiful things.
Used to like his workshop, lots of smelly glue pots 😆
Don't get the(e)Pox 😁 Have fun, Doug 😎

Will shortly be reinforcing my PTB with polyester resin inside and out.
No mixing, no pong and brushes wash out in hot water😊

PS: JFF I just dug out my Spektrum DX6 and a brand new AR610 RX.
Stuck in the Bind plug, stuck in the battery (via a little switch harness).
Pushed the Bind switch on the TX (the DX6 has a Bind push button on the top instead of a Trainer switch).
Lights flashed on the TX and a nice ladylike voice told me
"Binding" .... "Binding successful". Wonders of modern science 😁
Five minutes and all done.
Pulled out the bind plug, switched off RX and TX. Plugged a couple of servos into the throttle and rudder slots of the RX. Switched on TX then RX, twiddled the sticks and Lo and behold! Servos buzzed and moved 😊 Walk in the park 😉 There's hope for my Spektrum yet. Good luck with yours. Cheers, Doug 😎

Central heating. Death to nice wood. I have had central heating for the first time in my life these last 2 years and my china cabinet, which my Grandad made in the late 1920s has a crack you can pass a match through in the bow top. Grandad would be furious!

But I've cut a diagonal in pear and forced it in under the smaller roof and that's sorted that one and the larger roof is already repaired in three corners with the fourth tomorrow. Already getting the slight droop out of the bigger one and glued with epoxy.

I was delighted to find the square connector of the Taycol coupling still there along with the original Mersey Marine bow fender. Also the speed controller of my Proxxon drill, which went home very soon after I got the drill, so I ripped it out and wired straight through, so it's been flat out ever since! I wouldn't be without it though!
I shall be pressing my epoxy into use to coat the ply both sides, using an old credit card to press it into the grain. Then this 54 year old baby will be good for another 54.

Cheers,
Martin

Boiler dried out the wood, no great surprise huh?
Same happened to my Sea Scout🤔, 7 years in the cellar at my last place and 20 years here in the kitchen/workshop before I started on her last year.
Be happy if it didn't crack like mine 😭
Such is life, Happy straightening, cheers, Doug 😎

Just got my Crash Tender back from sonny Jim's loft and guess what?.....warped roofs! it's followed me everywhere, including living on 2 boats, yet it goes in a well insulated loft with his boiler up there and the roofs warp! Sod's Law I guess, so I will be proving my own pudding pretty soon.

Martin

Nice reply Brian 👍
By the way, thicker cocktail sticks next time?
You have to allow for some 'spring back'.
I used wood wedges.
Doug 😎

Hi John, it helps keep you awake as well
Useful if the Great Aunt gets a touch of the 'collywobbles' 😁😁

Hi John, yep, as mentioned above I know them and have some of their modules. Sonar sound (pinger) for my destroyer, twin ESC with rudder mixer, will probably also go in the destroyer. With a 12:1 LoA to beam ratio she needs all the help she can get for a sharp turn 😉
Delivered pronto to Munich as well 😊
Well made and highly recommendable 👍
Their documentation is also superb, 5 stars!

Phew, just finished stripping the PTB hull, now I've got two hulls to sand, seal, strengthen and paint! All go folks 😁
Cheers all, Doug 😎

Bryan use the Ammonia solution. it relaxes the wood fibres,the stronger the more relaxed.👍

Hiya Doug Yep but I prefer something I can Hold in my hand to read . No booting up time req,😁Have you heard of Action R/C Electronics it's an arm of Comp Shop. Same addy . Great units ready built : or kits for many of them. Download the catalogue from Comp Shop site. I find Kyje very helpful when I have a query,but they are all good. Steve Webb /Servo Shop also handy too. Cheers Doug👍

Warp drive eh I will klingon to that one.😆 Pugs faces are meat to look broken.

I put the roof in water Saturday and put a bowl of water on top as a weight with a couple of cocktail sticks to add a reverse warp. i have just tried it and it isn't perfect but far better.

other side is flush and the warp reduced to a 4mm gap at one end.

Yeah, sorry, Bryan, it just wanders that way, but as you say friends wander from one subject to another. Warp drive...haha, clever bugger ain't he?

Show us some pictures of the unwarped roof.

I just repaired a Pug...not my Peugeot, not a real doggie, but a nice garden ornament that got his face smashed in and I could only find half the bits, thanks to the wind.

I MIGHT do some modelmaking tomorrow....or I might make my dear lady a pond. I cut all the wood tonight. Best English Oak. it's to be a raised pond. We neither of us bend easy any more.

And so goes retirement, although, to be honest, I've always worked that way! Benefits of self-employment.

Cheers all.

Martin

Evenin' John, Yep, they're good👍
They also now market the Action Electronics range of very useful electronic modules. Also very good quick service to Munich 👍😊
Catalogue you can download anyway 😉
Cheers, Doug 😎

Vero also from The Component Shop in N.Wales .Order £ 3 or more/of anything/ from them and get a free catalogue. Excellent firm / service. Battery packs made to order if what you want isn't in Catalogue. Just one example of their great service.😋👍

Thanks Bryan, Good on ya mate!
That's our secret here ... 'Warp drive' 😁
Hope your roof turned out all right 👍
Cheers, Doug 😎

Don't worry, i deliberately put the question on a separate thread to my Seaplane Tender thread as I knew it could answer other peoples problems too. So we have gone from warped wood to electrical bridges. That is how conversations between friends go.

Yep, that's what I still call it as well. Got mine from Conrad, where else?😉
The bridge ain't really a 'chip', it's just 4 diodes encapsulated in a plastic or resin block
Martin: I think we should start a new thread on this stuff! Since we've inadvertently hijacked Bryan's thread 😲 Sorry Bryan🤔

As my Father-in-Law would have said about that Sea Scout, "Bugger tha's a rumun" in his best Norfolk. he was a woodworker for a hobby, too.

I didn't realise your bridge was a "chip" of sorts. I will definitely have to ask for help on that. Once I've made one, I'll be OK. is that Veroboard, as we used to call it?

Cheers,
Martin

My pleasure Martin, Thanks! Praise indeed from an 'old pro' 😊😁
I hope Dad wasn't to busy with the angels (or Vestal Virgins😲) and had time to look down and check what his 'little boy' was up to 😁

Yep the meter could help when checking the connections PRIOR to applying any power. More so if you use individual diodes.
Easier is if you use a Bridge Rectifier (like I did😉) which already has 4 diodes in one encapsulated block, clearly marked with the AC ~ inputs and the + and - outputs. That's the black block in the middle of my test board in attached pic. For your Taycols get one that is rated for 10 or 15 Amps. Use 10A fuses to protect the motor coils and a 15A fuse in the battery supply to protect the ESC and rectifier.👍
I will probably put this board and the Taycol Target in the Danish Fish Cutter I am currently renovating - parallel to the PTB!
Need to start two more Blogs! Glutton for punishment 😁
Cheers, Doug 😎
PS 2nd pic is the one I now use for my PC monitor background pic😊

Thanks, mate, I'm always on the lookout for good materials and that looks terrific. You did a very thorough job on that little boat, your Dad will have been most impressed.

BTW, I just bought a multimeter for models and house generally, which has a diode direction tester? I'm only guessing, but I figure that'll help when I make the bridge from your circuit, for my Taycols. OR.. I could be talking out of the old popper!
I'm sure you will let me know

Cheers,
Martin

Hi Martin, Yes I'm very happy with it. 😊
Not the cheapest but very good.
I use the whole range from Base coat Pore Filler (Sanding sealer) through matt, satin and full gloss varnishes. in both brushing tins, for small part brushing, and spray cans for the bigger stuff like hulls and decks.
The cans don't reveal what the base is but the thinners is white spirit or any of the usual 'universal' substitutes.
It's made in Holland, supposedly specially formulated specifically for model builders!
But it's available all over the shop, I get mine here from Krick. Just Google Lord Nelson varnish and you'll find loads of outlets, and Hotels 🤔!
For Sea Scout I used all spray; 2 base coat, 2 coats of satin varnish, as undercoat! Then 2 coats of Gloss varnish. Needless to say thin coats! And left to harden under a 300W halogen lamp😉
Lots of 'flatting' back in between culminating with 3000 wet & dry, wet with a little liquid soap. Final polish using two stage paint cutting / polishing paste from the Petrol Head world. See pics. Full details (including the bloopers😡) in my Sea Scout Build Blog.
Have fun with it, cheers, Doug 😎
PS Shame about the Lupins😡, that hybrid sounds fantabulous! 😉
BTW: if you use the brushing stuff thin with 10 to 20% white spirit, otherwise you'll find, as I just did with base coat sealer on the deck of my PTB, that it takes yonks to get the brush marks out 😆

OK, Doug, you just sold me on Lord Nelson spray varnish! is it enamel? Obviously it's external capable, but I never heard of it. it would seem to have done your mahogany a treat!
I have brush painted and rubbed down cellulose sanding sealer on all the woodwork on Vanity, but will need to varnish it all eventually and whilst I find brushing varnish with a fine sable an almost therapeutic activity, there's always the risk of it building up in internal corners which is almost impossible to shift.

Cheers,
Martin

Ammonia solution works excellently in warping /unwarping wood 👍of all types. The smell goes as the wood dries.

Evenin' All,
I had the same problem with the cabin roof of Dad's 1962/3 built Sea Scout.
First I thought I could just remove the ply tops and flatten them, hot water and then under a car battery overnight. But the ply was cracked and curled just at the overhang so even after gluing, soaking and straightening it was still cracked and useless.
So finally I soaked the frame alone in hot water and left it under the battery for a day and a night, with suitable wedges to get the right shape .
In the meantime I made new roof skins from 1.5mm mahogany.
Worked out quite nice in the end. Took a while though to get it right, especially along the centre line seam.
Then I set 5mm round neodymium magnets in the corners, with counter parts set on wooden brackets inside the cabin walls to hold it on at speed on the wet stuff. Before assembling and varnishing with Lord Nelson spray gloss varnish I sealed all parts with two coats of Lord Nelson spray wood seal. Survived it's sea trials quite well.

Penultimate pic shows the before 🤔, last pic shows the after 😉(while fitting new tinted windows)
Cheers, Doug 😎

I have just been to a mate of mine who says wet it and put a weight on top with some small blocks to counter the warp. I will try that first then steam if it fails.

I'd confirm what Ron says above. A slight warp, like yours, is paradoxically harder to shift than a biggy. I had a terrible warp in an old hull, but after making diagonal strutting and regluing the skins to a point a bit MORE than the warp in reverse, it sprung back to a perfect shape, but that roof is slight and so steam is the way. You can also use hat water or even just water, but, as Ron says, you'll need to twist it in the opposite direction and keep it there. A cheap and cheerful wooden frame is the answer, then either steam or dunk the whole lot in your garden (or somebody else's ) water butt. That's how I put the sheer AND deck camber on the 1.6mm decks of my yacht model. Worked a treat. left them to soak for half an hour and then dry on a hot sunny day, naturally. I now have a flat ply deck which has the curve of the sheer AND the athwartships camber all at once.
I also notice that the framework under the roof sheet isn't complete. if you were to complete that while holding the roof in an unwarped position, glue up and let it set hard you could also find it will straighten up.
Failing all this, making a brand new one from a bit of 1.5mm ply and some 3mm for a frame will be just as quick.

Ah, it's our pirate friend. Hello Bryan. Hadn't twigged it was your Seaplane Tender! it deserves repair rather than replacement, I reckon.

Cheers,
Martin

I would say steam would be your best bet, you would need to make some kind of frame to hold it to the correct shape and a steam box for it to sit in while the steam softens up the timber.
I modified a wallpaper steamer to do something like this and it works a treat with trial and error.
How it's done is knock up a box in timber large enough to accommodate the item to be steamed , drill some vent holes in the roof of the box to allow some of the steam to vent out and drill one hole at the base of the box large enough for the hose from the wallpaper stripper to fit through and away you go. You could also use this method for steaming planking strips
Ron