Hi Ron,
We're all guilty of not doing this with new kit, but I can only recommend,
If summat's not doing what you want or expected-
Read the 'destructions' 😉
I noticed the same effect with my Sea Scout trials, then read the manual and corrected the problem in seconds! 👍
Cheers, Doug 😎
Hi Ron,
We're all guilty of not doing this with new kit, but I can only recommend,
If summat's not doing what you want or expected-
Read the 'destructions' 😉
I noticed the same effect with my Sea Scout trials, then read the manual and corrected the problem in seconds! 👍
Cheers, Doug 😎
Young at heart 😉 Slightly older in other places.😊 Cheers Doug
Hi Ron,
This business of 'The other type has a pause between forward and reverse.' is rapidly becoming an old chestnut!!
If you look in the instructions for the Car ESC (such as the Hobbywing 16BL30 which I use in my Sea Scout - instructions in attached PDF) you will find that you can change the Running Mode from the Default Car mode 'Option 2 FWD/STOP/REV' to instant reverse by setting to 'Option 3' FWD/REV.
You can also programme the start mode to smooth out the 'jump starts' that I've seen others complain of with brushless motors.
You CAN do all this using the TX and listening to Beeps and watching flashing LEDs but it's much easier if you buy the little Programming card for the ESC.
Usually only a few quid (maybe a few more bucks😉) but very easy to use.
Cheers, Doug 😎
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Hi Ron,
This business of 'The other type has a pause between forward and reverse.' is rapidly becoming an old chestnut!!
If you look in the instructions for the Car ESC (such as the Hobbywing 16BL30 which I use in my Sea Scout - instructions in attached PDF) you will find that you can change the Running Mode from the Default Car mode 'Option 2 FWD/STOP/REV' to instant reverse by setting to 'Option 3' FWD/REV.
You can also programme the start mode to smooth out the 'jump starts' that I've seen others complain of with brushless motors.
You CAN do all this using the TX and listening to Beeps and watching flashing LEDs but it's much easier if you buy the little Programming card for the ESC.
Usually only a few quid (maybe a few more bucks😉) but very easy to use.
Cheers, Doug 😎
Young at heart 😉 Slightly older in other places.😊 Cheers Doug
The first run in the pond indicated I needed more left rudder, and that the universal joint was slipping on the motor shaft. Back in the shop, the rudder post was easily accessible & the adjustments were done. Next, I drilled a small hole 1/16” on the opposite side of the set screw of the universal adding another small screw to secure onto the motor shaft. Also, changed the speed control to a marine, instead of the type used in Rc cars that the hobby shop sold me. In this boat, instant forward & reverse is a must. The other type has a pause between forward and reverse. All works well now as seen in photos.
If you are on Facebook, a video is posted. Just look for Ron Bauer
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The first run in the pond indicated I needed more left rudder, and that the universal joint was slipping on the motor shaft. Back in the shop, the rudder post was easily accessible & the adjustments were done. Next, I drilled a small hole 1/16” on the opposite side of the set screw of the universal adding another small screw to secure onto the motor shaft. Also, changed the speed control to a marine, instead of the type used in Rc cars that the hobby shop sold me. In this boat, instant forward & reverse is a must. The other type has a pause between forward and reverse. All works well now as seen in photos.
If you are on Facebook, a video is posted. Just look for Ron Bauer
First launch in the pond for the J-502 found that it needed a rudder adjustment that the "bathtub" sailing did not show. Pleased with the stability and it's potential.
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First launch in the pond for the J-502 found that it needed a rudder adjustment that the "bathtub" sailing did not show. Pleased with the stability and it's potential.