"I wouldn't dream of calling such an august person as yourself by such an epithet."
Methinks the lady doth protest too much!😉
😁😎

"The standing lug is on the mizzen;"
Owaaah! Get this big lug orf me mizzen, it 'urts!🤕
😂🤣

Boomkin and Bumpkin are one and the same thing, but bumpkin is more commonly used. Unfortunately the word bumpkin through some process unknown to me has come to be used in an uncomplimentary way of describing some inhabitants of rural communities. Being of pure mind, I would only use it to describe the part of a sailing vessel which was specified in an earlier post. I wouldn't dream of calling such an august person as yourself by such an epithet.

Nerys

"Bumpkin"!! A Bumpkin!!
Shiver me timbers and raise me poop deck!😠
Who be ye a callin a Bumpkin Commander ?
Hmm! I see the Captains Promotion Board is coming up soon ......!
I DO hope you will be on the List Commander Boomkin😉😁
FLEET// 😎

Not wanting to split hairs, but I'm going to. Re the picture of the Fifie. The dipping lug is set on the foremast, so technically, it is a foresail not a mainsail. The standing lug is on the mizzen;

Nerys

Bumpkin.

Nerys

DON'T DO IT ANDREW!!😮
If you do then the bulkheads/ribs definitely will tilt - backwards!!
See attached pic for angle of the keel to the horizontal.
"A sailing Fifie, showing the main dipping lug and the mizzen standing lug."
By Peter Nisbet.
Cheers, Doug 😎
PS That's not a bowsprit on the left.
The bow is to the right. The rudder can be seen on the left.
So that must be a 'sternsprit'!!😉
Nerys will surely know the correct name and fill in another gap in my education👍

Andrew - hate to say it but if you do that the hull shape is going to be distorted - will look all wrong and be difficult to plank...........
Please check your PM's

Stand to be corrected Ron , but that looks like a much later diesel trawler. The drifters were largely old style longer & narrower steam engined trawlers using a small sail to "drift" along with nets out - at least that seems to be the case with all the articles & plans I have........

Hi John - I have many of Jim Pottingers "plans", so far found none suitable for a beginner......... They are very accurate drawings - but that's all they are - there are no parts drawn or construction hints. The problem being there is never a model built from them prior to publication.
Most of what I would call proper "Plans" produced by the like of Vic Smeed, Ray Wood, Glynn Guest etc are produced after building a model and already account for many pitfalls..... Plans for a full size tug I was given run to 27 pages of which I have about 15 - of those at least four would be needed for a model..........
Older plans mostly include parts drawings as do the Mantua , Mamoli , Constructo and a few other kit makers whom you can actually buy plans from. Most of Vic Smeeds & Glynn Guests have parts drawings /power recommendations etc as do a whole lot of other contributors up to the late 90s or so. All those are much more suitable for beginners with a lot of their simpler plans being suitable for a youngster starting out as well as being a nice quickie build for the more experienced...........

Is my trawler a “Drift Trawler”?

Andrew :- look at the headings at the very top - click on "Messages" (4th along) to read your messages. Sent you a PM with contact details .
To send a message check the members posting - under the Avatar there is a small box marked "Send PM" . Click on that to send a message to that member.

hi there
I have built several models from Jim Pottinger plans - and find that they are pretty good. Some of them aren't for the beginner mind - you do have to have a good idea of how to work your way around the plans. One of the plans of Jim Pottinger's which I have built and is similar to the fishing boat you are currently building is the Frederick Spashette - you will find this full build in Masterclass on Model Boat Mayhem. To see the photographs on that forum though, you do need to be a member.

I have used 4 images of my build from Mayhem to give you an idea of how the frames have been set up on a building board and on close examination you will see the frames are at right angles to the keel - but - the actual water line does run at an extreme angle to the frames. Have a look at the drawing in one of the images and you will see the angle of the water line and then have a look at the image of the boat on the water. This will give you an idea of the extreme angle of the waterline.

Unfortunately though builds like these tend to the better off being built on a building board, unless of course you can fit the deck on top of the frames before you commence planking and this will give extra rigidity and hold them quite securely for when you begin to plank. That's my two-penneth worth - good luck with the build and let us have some pictures.

John

Hi, I see you are from Gansbaai (must be RSA) if you would send me your banking details and the cost of copying via Whats app I can EFT you the money, My cell is 0761240661.
I couldn't make out how to use MP

Regards.

Hi Andrew,
A (PM) is a personal message.
At the top of the screen you will see some tabs marked Home,Trending,Notifications Than Messages.
Click the Messages tab.
Then send your Message from there.

Martin555.

Hi Lt.
I have already cut the ribs to a datum above the deck so that is sorted. A new plan would be great but I don't know what a PM is. I assume the file wile will be in PDF form.
I have started this thing now I would like the challenge so thanks for other options

Hi Doug . misinterpretation of what I was saying - the frames usually slant forward from the keel - ie Scaffies , Fifies and the Cornish luggers etc. They are vertical to the deck line /waterline.
Dinghys, launches, tugs etc usually have the keel level with the deck - certainly the fishing boats here do - hence the frames are vertical to the deck & w/l (which are the most modeled - so the angled keel does look odd to most of us.............

Hi Andrew - looked up my plans and other details of the Fifie - has an extremely "rockered" hull (think of a rocking horse) . Have the original of the plan you have (new condition) - unfortunately that's the only one - if you want a clean copy will be able to get it scanned at the Gansbaai Postnet & forward to you - most Postnets or print shops can print it out for you - cheaper than the couriers and we both end up with a plan. Send me a PM if you want the plan.
Over the years have found the best way to build this type of hull is on a board :-
As you have already cut the frames - simply draw a line about 2" above the frames section of the plan and lightly glue some pieces of the same size wood to the frames so the tops are all on that line then glue a small length of 1/2" x 1/2" flush across the top of the extensions. Use that to fasten the frames to a 1' thick piece of chipboard or MDF at the correct frame intervals. Dry fit the keel and ensure it is straight. (Sometimes frames are not entirely symmetrical). When it is straight you can happily plank without much fear of distortion as long as you remember to do both sides at once and not one after the other. When the planking is finished its relatively easy to cut through above the 1/2"strips and then remove the extensions. Much easier to plank upside down.
As to the stability I have no idea - but the sailing versions all seem to use a false keel but a heavy battery and ballast set in epoxy (shotgun shot or fishing weights) would probably do.
As said elsewhere the keel slots must be cut at the correct angle - and James Pottinger plans are among the most difficult to build from . Have some simpler ones if you are interested depending how far along you have got of course.............

Fleet Admiral,
I will have to ask my son how to scan a photo when I can get hold of him

Lt. redpmg, I think I am getting the hang of website.
Thank you for replying aother plan may just help

Hi, Thank you very much, I hope I will hear from you again

good day, Idont understand the bashed and bent part of this reply

"as far as I know the ribs do slant forward in a lot of the early fishing boats from the UK "
Why would they want to do that Peter?
Surely the ribs also often also form the frames for the internal bulkheads which are then at 90° to the horizontal, i.e. LWL at rest in calm water, to maintain the human frame of reference and perception of up/down left/right?
The ribs and bulkheads should surely be at right angles to the horizontal (LWL) not to the keel line, which itself may not be straight or anywhere near horizontal!
I've never yet seen a yard GA drawing where this was not the case.
Or been on a boat or ship where the bulkheads seemed to be tilting towards or away from me. Except in very rough seas, then everything can seem to go haywire😮😝
I admit that I have professionally mostly been on naval vessels, patrol boats to light carriers,
but also JFF on various yachts and converted fishing boats.

I'm sure that here Andrew is simply misinterpreting the plan or instructions and has cut the keel slots at the wrong angle, or wrongly set the keel horizontal on his build board.
With that keel angle it looks like a good case for building upside-down!
I rest my case, and 'sit' to be corrected if the 'defence' can provide conclusive evidence of slanted ribs or bulkheads.😁
Cheers, Doug 😎
As already said: a couple of relevant extracts from the plan, including profile overview, would help enormously to solve this conundrum!

"this could be so they can fit them on the a size of paper that when folded it will fit into a magazine"
Huh????
A plan will surely be simply scaled to fit not bashed and bent or otherwise altered?
😎

"Firstly, the ribs are drawn 90 degrees to the horizontal line whereas the keel lies at an angle. This has the ribs leaning forward in the boat. The distance from the LWL to the bottom of the rib 5 and from the LWL to bottom of rib 6 is a step of 11mm over a distance of 50mm."
Hmm!
Casting my forensic engineer's eye on the available evidence😉-
Surely that simply means that the slots in the keel must be cut at a corresponding angle?
Not unusual in my limited experience. Not so many boats or ships have keels which are dead straight and parallel to the water line; i.e. horizontal.
In this case the keel appears to be at a fairly acute angle to the horizontal (LWL) which might account for the 11mm over 50mm slope, exaggerated by tilting the bulkheads.
If you (falsely) assume that the ribs are at 90° to the keel and cut accordingly that would account for the tilt.
A couple of photos / scans of relevant parts of the plan would help to solve the puzzle.
Cheers, Doug 😎
Pics in this link clearly show the acute angle of the keel
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fifie
Link to Model Boats plans
https://picclick.com/Model-Boat-Plans-Motor-Fishing-Vessel-Length-263599250005.html
3D printed version anyone?
https://grabcad.com/library/scottish-fifie-fishing-boat-1-20-scale-r-c-model-1

For a first time scratch build I would not recommend a James Pottinger plan
As you say some of the parts are at different angles this could be so they can fit them on the a size of paper that when folded it will fit into a magazine as I believe this was a free plan a few years ago I will have a look and see if I have it in my plans folder if I have I will come back to you Yours Scout

Andrew , as far as I know the ribs do slant forward in a lot of the early fishing boats from the UK . Will check & see if I have a good drawing/plan for you. Need to look through my files.