Re: Elke HF408 kit
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There might be some interesting information in this thread if you scroll through it..
https://model-boats.com/forum/37404#37404
Martin555.
I have a turnigy 12v basic lipo balance charger for 2s- 3s battery.
Now the confusion lies in this 'storage charge' , so if i charge it up and don't use it within a few days, apparently, i need to dicharge it to a certain voltage in order to store it , so what device must i get in order to accomplish this, or should i buy a better type of charger?. Secondly, given the type of battery and esc that i have, what voltage motor will be compatible. Thanks, floyd.
You've received several replies giving useful advice in bits and pieces, some without providing the 'Why'!
So let me try to pull this altogether!😉
First:
The Elke is a Fish Cutter, very similar to my Billing Boats Danish North Sea fish cutter Gina 2.
They were 'plodders', max 10 knots at an educated guess. So you won't need a mighty meaty motor or lots of volts to drive it.
The original Graupner instructions recommend a 280 type brushed motor.
More than adequate for scale speed for a fish cutter. I'm assuming that the prop is approx 30mm diameter like my Gina 2 cutter. Which incidentally I propose to propel with a 50s vintage Taycol Target motor.
BUT: You say that you have already purchased a Quicrun ESC.
So your choice of motor is now defined by the type of that ESC.
As Rowen says the Quicrun range includes both brushed and brushless types.
Due to differences in the control technology of brushed and brushless motors you can not mix the types. I.E. brushed motor with brushless ESC or vice versa!
A brushed motor is simply DC driven. Connect a battery and it runs. 😀
A brushless motor is in essence a type of 3-phase AC motor and requires a corresponding electronic speed controller (ESC) to run it.
So which Quicrun ESC have you bought?
Battery:
Can appreciate your trepidation re LiPos as a newcomer to the technology.
Like Rowen I have had no problems with them for 4 years now.
But I have nearly 50 years of electronics engineering behind me so perhaps my perspective differs a bit from that of a novice!😉
By all means stick to NiMh if you are happier with that - model boating should be fun not worrying! But remember; ANY battery type can bite you if you maltreat it.
Even a so called 'Sealed' Lead Acid produces hydrogen gas when charging and vents it if the internal pressure gets too high through charging too long at high current!! So put yer fags out!😉 And buy a decent charger capable of charging AND monitoring NiMh. LiPo and SLA batteries. Cheaper than buying chargers for all three types 😀
BTW: A motor (brushed or brushless) does not care what type of battery you use 😊
All it wants is enough current at the right volts, so that can come from an NiMh, a LiPo, an SLA lead accumulator, or even silver oxide cells if you've just won the lottery 😁
So motor and battery can not be incompatible.😉 But motor and speed controller (ESC) CAN be!!🤔
Motor and ESC:
As said, motor choice will depend on the type of Quicrun ESC you have bought!
I hope that it was one of the brushed motor types; e.g. 1060.
A fish cutter does not need a powerful high revving or high torque brushless motor for reasons stated above.
If you have bought one of the Quicrun xxBLyy types of brushless ESC I suggest you save that for a later project, perhaps a fast MTB or PTB, or sell it and purchase a simple brushed ESC, e.g.Mtroniks Viper Marine 10. Or the Quicrun 1060.
RC kit: Transmitter & Receiver set (TX/RX).
I see that you have a 6 channel FlySky set 👍
Don't know it personally but it has similarities with my Turnigy set and several MB site members use variants of FlySky kit so you should be OK for set up / operating help if needed.
6 channels gives you scope for special functions like lighting etc etc.
But that's further down the line 😉 We can help with that when you get that far 👍
Hope this helps clarify things a little.
BTW: A few pics, or even make and type numbers, of what kit and equipment you have are always helpful to us when we are asked for advice re 'The Way Forward'.
The only daft question is the one that you are afraid to ask!😉
This site is full of bin there done that, 'this works fine' or 'tried this, won't do it again because ...' members and hundreds of years of experience! Use it 👍
Cheers, Doug 😎
Preeeee-ciseley Rowen👍, same with me, also 4 years or so.
Follow the rules and LiPos are no problem.
I also never charge at more than 1Amp.
The manufacturers only claim that they can be quick charged at 10 or 20Amps or whatever so that you do that, ruin the battery - reduce it's capacity and have to buy new ones.
Good for business🙄 But not for us!😠
I never charge NIMhs at more than 1A either.
When cycling (discharge/charge) to rejuvenate batteries, either NiMh or LiPo, I discharge at 5A and charge at 1A.
Cheers, Doug 😎
They have the best current density of all cells and seem to work well. The weight of lead-acid cells is too much for the smaller, faster electric models anyway.
So, if you are going to venture into the more "advanced" battery world, might as well go the whole hog.
Have heard stories of fires and other mishaps. I follow the charging and storage recommendations religiously and so far have never been concerned.
Usually charge at a max. rate of 1 A or lower, which is way under the max allowable. Always use a bag or steel ammunition box and never leave unattended.
So far, have worked for me.🤞
71 years old, Ah you're never to young to start 😀.
No problem, anything I can help you with just shout, if I don't know the answer someone else will.
The boat I'm building at the moment is an H A Kits morston (the small one) and even though I had a lot of various bits I still had to go shopping for an esc, batteries, propshafts etc 😀, Just reading through the various build blogs here gives you a good idea of what bits to get and where to get them.
With the Morston, space is very limited so I'm using Nimh battery packs for the main power and receiver, I've just ordered these from the component shop, they're pretty reasonable pricewise and they have a good selection.
The guys on here are very helpful, especially to newcomers to the hobby, and willing to answer any questions you might have.
Bill
I know how you feel, I'm on my first boat as well, any knowledge that I have has been gleaned from the good folks on this site.
As for Lipo batteries, I personally feel the same as you do, with my limited knowledge I'm sticking to Nimh or lead acid batteries for now.
However, I came across this article on the component shop website last night which might give you some helpful advice.
Bill
The easy way to check is are there two or three motor wires? Two is brushed and three brushless.
If your motor and battery aren't compatible, it might be worth changing your motor instead of your battery, that would be much cheaper.
Bill
Glad to help.
If you have anymore questions don't hesitate to ask.
Looking forward to seeing the build log.
Congratulations on your promotion to Able Seaman.
Martin555.
If the motor is 6 to 12 Volts then you should be able to use the 11.1 volt Lipo.
If the motor is just 6 volt and you use the 11.1 volt battery then when you throttle up to full power you will burn out the motor.
I am by no means an expert on this subject but i am sure that other members could help you out.
Martin555.
Good to see you have battled on with the RC side of things.
I found this and it mentions the motor.
Is this the same scale of your boat ?
https://addlestone-models.co.uk/acatalog/13665a.pdf
Martin555.
It is really unusual to have no replies. I am sure it just slipped under the RADAR.
Martin is a superb researcher so I think he will give you some valuable help and pointers.
Peter.
I am very surprised that you have not had any response to your question.
Must of slipped through the gaps.
I will have to do a bit of research on the model you are working on before i could help.
Is there anything written in the instructions.
Martin555.
Re: Elke HF408 kit
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