Jimbo,
Loose shafts... wonderful. Definitely re-grease them. The shaft logs(tubes) run entirely below the waterline, so they are a potential source of H2O inflow. Other than that sealing the deck should be your only other contention. it is amazing just how much water can enter a hull by splash and subs do not have, even surface runners, much reserve buoyancy, so protecting what you have is one of my main goals. As Doug indicated, it should like your boat is about 1/40 scale, so you should have quite a bit of room to work with. You may want to consider putting shaft seals on your prop shafts. There a commercially available ones or you can find a very small one thru and industrial supply house. One last note. Make sure that you rudder shaft is well sealed as well. Amazing amounts of water can enter thru these as well. keep us post, Please.
Jonathan

Hi Fred thank you for the info the hull is made from fibre glass by the looks of the interior & the deck is made in 3 sections of strong plastic will check out the AMS forum later 👍

Hi Jimbob
Could you give us some idea of what the hull is made from, looking at the photos and at that size I don't think it is a Darnell.

As for making her into a surface runner you will have to make a watertight compartment to fit all the R/C and motors, you could put the battery into the free flood area if you use a SLA battery.

Have a look at the AMS forum for ideas.

Fred

Their uniforms haven't been delivered yet Jim 😉 and it's chilly in the North Atlantic 😁
We won't mention what the one by the rail is doing will we!😎
BTW The Type sevens were just over 67m LoA so at 1.6m your boat must be about 1:42 scale. My Type I, and all the 'Little Blue People' are 1:72.

Cheers, Doug 😎

Hi Martin555,

Thank you for the info really great!! 👍

Hi Doug,
Thank you for the plans not sure about the "blue figures" though? 😎

Hi Toradog,
I am aiming to just keep it surface running its 160cm long not sure of scale 1:72? Sealing the sub will not be an issue I have also removed all the decking now & can inspect the prop shafts etc they are not seized up & run freely could I get away with using the originals & maybe regrease or lubricate the shafts & fit new brass props? They are both sealed in the normal way.
Hope this helps.

Looks like an early type VIIC, before the 'Wintergarten' was added and the Flak battery extended to 1 x 37mm and two dual or quad 20mm.
See attached plan.
Conning tower looks like the one from my Krick Type 1A , which the Type 7s were developed from. (See attached pics). But why is it sitting on the keel!!?? Musta bin a real heavy depth charge attack 😮

Looks like someone took a few liberties with it and started to turn it into the Pink Sub from 'Operation Petticoat' 😉
Good luck Jim 👍
Doug 😎

Hi Jim.
It looks like it is based on the type 7 uboat.
You could look for plans on the net.

If it was a surface runner then the shafts were just packed with Grease to stop the water getting in.
This might help.
At least it will give you an idea what it should look like.

https://line.17qq.com/articles/uewquqcrx.html

As ToreDog said are you planning on making it a surface runner ?

Martin555.

can you give a bit more information about your boat? Scale, size, ect. Why do the shafts need to come out? Frozen?
Being a surface runner vs a dynamic boat( one with a ballast tank capable of submerging partially or completely) is very similar, only the ballast tank and plumbing is missing. The real issue is water tight integrity for the motors, radio and battery. There are generally two ways to go, a WTC( water tight cylinder, or a pressure hull boat, like the older Engel boats.)
Choosing which route you are going to take will determine where and how you seal the hull.
With all that said, this gets to your shafts. Do they, or did they , have seals on them? or, perhaps the motors had shaft seals?
Anoter wonderful source of information is The SubCommittee.
It can be found here :https://www.subcommittee.com/forum/
Membership is not expensive and the knowledge base is extensive.