Hi Phil,
I forgot about this boat, have three of these boats, one in the possess of upgrading to brushless, in camo the other two are in their original red plastic, shame they are so bad in reverse.
Pulled it down from on top of utility room cupboard to photo it for you.
Regards Roy
Hi Roy - certainly a great little boat - sure it will be even better with your proposed upgrades.
Brushless should certainly stop noise and help
reduce vibration !
Note - Video shows how well she keeps up with the Wee Nip
👍⛵ cheers
Phil
Hi Phil & Roy - need a bit of help - have an outboard from a Tomkat given to me by Barry from Westbourne years ago . Wanted to know how the drive works - presume its a dog drive on a flexible cable - but dont have any details - or the male connector . Would it be possible to get a photo of that setup ?
Thinking it might be easier to convert it to a real outboard using a 480 and some nylon/brass bevel gears obtained from SHG years ago ?
Phil that's a great video - enjoyed it - Nip does sail well - no wonder they are popular.
Drive is a (2-3mm ?) tension spring around 12mm long - mine rusted so relaced it with pastic STRIMMER WIRE !!! - drive then used to slip occasionally, but ok for non torque`y trottle application !!!
Phil👍
Hi Phil and redpmg,
Yes the original link between shaft to imitation outboard (in-fact just a steerable strut/prop shaft) was something like a short bit of bicycle break cable, they often failed.
On my brushless version I was going to extend the imitation outboard backward so I can get a double universal joint or dog bone in there to take the power, have changed my mind as I think the previous option would be to restrictive in rudder movement.
So I have put back the original running shaft with flexi. put in a spare ESC and battery, unfortunately I cannot remember the brushless motor specifications so will run on 7.4v.
Tested in the bath a few mins ago all works ok.
Reverse is still non-existent but should go a bit better as only using a 1500mah battery, of course action man is getting fat and will slow her down.
Thanks to you both for the pictures and description - still a little in the dark - can see the flex is fastened to presumably a normal shaft - but does the conical other end simply fit into the slots on the motor collar?
Phil - think heavy duty strimmer nylon like you used might be a better bet than cable as it will probably be run in the sea a few times. How did you fasten that to the Cone ? Presume original spring/wire was soldered? Will have to make the fitting on my ancient original Unimat !
Hi Redpmg,
The joint shown above is the original ripmax, the 2 conical connector join to 4mm shaft and sub shaft, I do not think it is available any more.
Personally I would not bother with the dummy motor, but you could put it on the back of a suitable normal boat (with prop and rudder underneath) just for effect.
Converting it to a real outboard using a 480 and some nylon/brass bevel gears may be more difficult than you think.
Commercial RC outboards come in two types, 1. expensive and powerfull, 2.cheap and slow.
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I forgot about this boat, have three of these boats, one in the possess of upgrading to brushless, in camo the other two are in their original red plastic, shame they are so bad in reverse.
Pulled it down from on top of utility room cupboard to photo it for you.
Regards Roy
Brushless should certainly stop noise and help
reduce vibration !
Note - Video shows how well she keeps up with the Wee Nip
👍⛵ cheers
Phil
Thinking it might be easier to convert it to a real outboard using a 480 and some nylon/brass bevel gears obtained from SHG years ago ?
Phil that's a great video - enjoyed it - Nip does sail well - no wonder they are popular.
Phil👍
Yes the original link between shaft to imitation outboard (in-fact just a steerable strut/prop shaft) was something like a short bit of bicycle break cable, they often failed.
On my brushless version I was going to extend the imitation outboard backward so I can get a double universal joint or dog bone in there to take the power, have changed my mind as I think the previous option would be to restrictive in rudder movement.
So I have put back the original running shaft with flexi. put in a spare ESC and battery, unfortunately I cannot remember the brushless motor specifications so will run on 7.4v.
Tested in the bath a few mins ago all works ok.
Reverse is still non-existent but should go a bit better as only using a 1500mah battery, of course action man is getting fat and will slow her down.
Regard
Roy
Phil - think heavy duty strimmer nylon like you used might be a better bet than cable as it will probably be run in the sea a few times. How did you fasten that to the Cone ? Presume original spring/wire was soldered? Will have to make the fitting on my ancient original Unimat !
The joint shown above is the original ripmax, the 2 conical connector join to 4mm shaft and sub shaft, I do not think it is available any more.
Personally I would not bother with the dummy motor, but you could put it on the back of a suitable normal boat (with prop and rudder underneath) just for effect.
Converting it to a real outboard using a 480 and some nylon/brass bevel gears may be more difficult than you think.
Commercial RC outboards come in two types, 1. expensive and powerfull, 2.cheap and slow.
Regards
Roy