Lew, for connectors, I use XT30/XT60 on my RC aircraft, they seem better when it comes to separating the two halves. As for LIPO, well again I only use them for my aircraft and todays chargers are very good but they are not cheap to buy. You can also buy/create a flame proof charging box. I am going to use my LIPO's in my new boat this year (I have them so I will use them) but the only thing that is bothering me is a short circuit due to water? Going to do some thinking on that one.

I said I would update on this problem and the motor mount is done. took me longer due to having to wait for the new coupling.
The mounting is a bit chunky in build as I used what I had in my workshop/garage. The alignment was made using a ridged substitute coupler I made. The new coupling follows forum member 'Wolle' and was bought from a CNC parts supplier I use (3d printers and similar). Its a very nice item with very good flexibility for about 5 deg each side of its axis and has 2x grub screws each side of the part for clamping, it cost £3.95. I could not find the dumas dog bone coupler in the UK. (USA has plenty) As for the sound deadening erasers, I have little room underneath the motor so had to pass on that this time and opted for a Hybrid Polymer Sealant Adhesive to provide a shallow bed of silicone under the motor mount plates. I have experience of using Hybrid Polymers on my Campervan build and they provide excellent bonding with a slightly flexible joint. So its in place and I think it is the best I can do on this build. If I build another boat next winter I will tackle the whole build differently as I have made plenty of mistakes on this first one. Thanks to all for their comments and advice and I will do the boating lake test probably next week if the weather improves. Video is shown at full motor speed and reverse.

I like the dog bones coupler as well, will also look at that

Some more good ideas with the Erasers / vibration mounts and the double UV joint. Thanks for those and will take all comments made into account. I have the outline of the new motor mount in my head and will make a start this weekend.
Thanks to all

Well this has been an interesting morning.
1. The motor noise, please see the vids. I tried adding friction the the UV coupling (pressing finger against the side) no change to the noise. No vibration felt through the motor casing.
2. Motor runs well when disconnected and again tried adding friction to the shaft with the motor running well and no added 'noise' or vibration
3. Prop shaft runs smooth on the housing when not connected to the motor

So for the motor noise issue I will make a whole new motor mount with some adjustment means built in to line it up correctly and buy a better quality UV coupling and then try that. It will take me to mid next week to complete that and I post the outcome for interest.

For the water line / ballast question, thanks for that very good Info in your response and I have decided to go with the 446gm AFT ballast added and go try it at the boating lake and see how it runs. Then adjust from there. The Hull was described as a 'Deep V' by the seller and the boat is a planing hull? its going to be a cabin type cruiser when completed.

All this will happen after the motor fix and the weather improves, maybe end of the month all being well.
So thanks to all and I will update my post after the changes
Cheers
(Hope the media files work)

Alessandro, sorry, I should have added both wts for the total ballast , so setup3 is 1011gm.
Must be an age thing I have

Alessandro, the noise, I will do some 'tests' today and make a reply on the forum. Another person advised that Brushed motors might not have the brush edges run in and could be causing a bump each revolution? The noise repeat increases with RPM.
For the Ballast, well these pics may add some amusement, this is the hull in my bath.
1. No ballast fitted - you can see it is very high AFT
2. 466gm AFT - fishing watch wts set on dowels
3. 545gm AFT and MID - I think this is looking too low in the water?

So my question is some advice of how this hull should sit in the water, 1 or 2 or 3 or some in between. I have several fishing wts of different sizes so easy to change. I still have the upper decks to make but I will test the hull at the boating lake first
Cheers

Wolle, thanks I like the look of flex coupling and will try that. I may also try and rework my motor position to correct the miss alignment

My first effort at a RC boat is nearing completion on the hull, had plenty problems dealing with a bought in FG hull. I got good advice from this forum on the motor/esc selection (31ZY 12v/4000 and 1060) and have applied that, however.... some questions
Noise, I note a machine gun type of noise in particular in the faster FWD direction, is it usual to have a lot of noise on motor / plain bearing props shafts? I have lubricated the prop shaft by running light oil through it and no change. ? My motor alignment is slightly off but it does have a UV joint.
Lubrication, what is best for the prop shaft lubrication, some form of light viscosity grease (if so any ID on that) or light oil
Ballast, I have to add ballast (800 gm's) to the aft / mid of the hull to get it to sit 'right' on the water (going off a water line being the outer edge of the hull V), looking at pics on this forum I do not see ballast being used, seemed a lot to me.
(I build model RC aircraft where weight and balance is a big issue)

Maybe some daft questions but all comments welcome
Cheers

Thank to all for the advice and techniques, I will put it all into practice this week and see how it all moves forward. Appreciate the heads up on cleaning / abrading the FG, I did not think about the release agent aspect. Cheers

I am new to RC boats and will be building an own design Boat (Sport Fishing / Cabin type 81cm length x 27cm width) this winter using a FG hull. I am looking for advice / guidance / pics? on how to join the sheet Ply deck to the hull? How is a good looking 'edge' join achieved between the hull edge and the deck? I will be making / fitting some bulkheads this week but would like some guidance before I do that job. Are there any good 'build books or vids/pics to be had?
Cheers

Bob (in Aus?) thanks for the detail on the motors etc, I have been able to find UK suppliers for what your describe (took only 15 mins). I like the equipment you describe and the UK cost is very reasonable. So...thats what I am going to try and thank you for that! There is a question from another forum member on Props, would you have any advice on that for sizing etc?
Appreciated.
Les

I am new to powered model boats and will be building an own design boat this winter (Type = Cabin cruiser). I am very familiar with Brushless Outrunner setups for my RC model aircraft but I have some questions on setups for a boat?
- I want a quick select reverse function, is it better to use 'Brushed' DC motors with matching ESC over what appears to be a more complicated Brushless setups? (correct me if I am wrong on the last statement)
- Motor size, I am not looking to tear around with this boat, more like scale speed + a little, what size Brushed motor would be used for that? Boat is 80cm length x 27cm width, no idea right now on weight.
- Any recommendations for motor type selection if Brushed is the way to go?
- ESC size to suit? I have looked at MTroniks and that may be what I go with if Brushed motors used.
Thanks