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| Most recent posts shown first (Show Oldest First) | (Print Booklet) |
📝 Deck planking and bridge
8 months ago by Sakibian (
Petty Officer 1st Class)
Petty Officer 1st Class)
2mm balsa on the whole deck.under the wood,there will be pvc.
Shame,the wood will be painted white.
Bridge is also wooden.
Shame,the wood will be painted white.
Bridge is also wooden.
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👀 62 Views
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💬 Re: Deck planking and bridge
8 months ago by Sakibian (
Petty Officer 1st Class)
All hail SPORT FISHERMAN 💪😅
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👀 38 Views
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💬 Re: Deck planking and bridge
8 months ago by Krampus (
 Warrant Officer)
Sport Fisherman boats rule.
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👀 40 Views
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📝 Rpm seson set-up to get the RPM. Kinda fancy,uh?
8 months ago by Sakibian ( Petty Officer 1st Class)
Petty Officer 1st Class)
This was an idea from nowhere. Looking at the actual boat's from famous Jarrett Bay Boat work's,they all has Garmin display on the bridge.
Wanted to do the same but what could be a good mini display and what should i show?
My friend, who's good with electronics ,helped me to build these arduino oled displays and did all the coding stuff. So i can put on the Boat name,rpm, distance covered, engine temp.
The black fan is a 12v blower fan for 3d printer. Air cooling.
Wanted to do the same but what could be a good mini display and what should i show?
My friend, who's good with electronics ,helped me to build these arduino oled displays and did all the coding stuff. So i can put on the Boat name,rpm, distance covered, engine temp.
The black fan is a 12v blower fan for 3d printer. Air cooling.
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💬 Comment
👀 62 Views
3
📝 Air vent and deck support
8 months ago by Sakibian ( Petty Officer 1st Class)
Petty Officer 1st Class)
2mm balsa to make the air vent. 2/3mm PVC to build the supports. I will put a layer of balsa on top. The top will be wooden, hopefully.
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👀 73 Views
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💬 Re: Air vent and deck support
8 months ago by ChrisF (
Warrant Officer)
Hi Sakib
As regards the rudders the theory is Ok but the wire used is very thin for a push/pull system. Also that vertical part of the bend is likely to flex a lot. Have you tried operating the servo and holding the rudder blades lightly? Also where the wire is bent to go into the arms it may spring out unless you have secured the ends on the underside which we can't see. Chris 👍 Like
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👀 47 Views
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💬 Re: Air vent and deck support
8 months ago by Sakibian (
Petty Officer 1st Class)
Thanks a lot for the sharing,Chris!
Firstly, same here. I'm not sure how it will work or even if it will work or not. Hopefully the shafts wont bent, HOPEFULLY. And the rudder linkage, I'm not sure what you were talking about. I hope you will share some more ideas so i can do better with them. I live in Bangladesh and there's no Boat shop here. I am trying these ideas so i can know before opening a Boat shop/Hobbyshop. I do get the parts from China but bringing all the part's are kind of expensive so i tried to build some parts myself. R&D 😊 -Sakib 👍 Like
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👀 62 Views
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💬 Re: Air vent and deck support
8 months ago by ChrisF (
Warrant Officer)
Given the slight angle of the rudders and the fact that they will cancel each out maybe they will be Ok.
Not so sure about the motor and prop shaft though! As well as being brass M2 is very thin and with flexible motor mounts you could very well get whip in the prop shaft which will give very bad vibration, particularly as the motors are high kV. Bit concerned about your motor mounting and rudder linkage! I don't know where you are but do you have difficulty in obtaining threaded stainless steel prop shafts? The motor and prop shaft always sound noisy when bench running, especially without the superstructure, but are much better once on the water. Be interesting to see how it works out but I wouldn't be surprised if you have problems and noise! Chris 👍 Like
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👀 71 Views
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📝 The rudder blades are angled!
8 months ago by Sakibian ( Petty Officer 1st Class)
Petty Officer 1st Class)
This is one confusing test I'm doing on the boat.
Normally rudder blades are vertical but on this one i tried a bit angle on them. Sail boats has these kind of angle's.
I'm still not sure,if these will work or not but I'm gonna give a try.
I put a couple of bearings,the the copper pipe and then the shaft. I wasn't sure if the bearings would stop the water so i kept another way to rotate the rudder shafts. But the bearings are good enough. I will put some more white grease on them.
Had some changes on the rudder's arm. Servo arm's are better that the handmade wooden arms.
Any help appreciated!
Normally rudder blades are vertical but on this one i tried a bit angle on them. Sail boats has these kind of angle's.
I'm still not sure,if these will work or not but I'm gonna give a try.
I put a couple of bearings,the the copper pipe and then the shaft. I wasn't sure if the bearings would stop the water so i kept another way to rotate the rudder shafts. But the bearings are good enough. I will put some more white grease on them.
Had some changes on the rudder's arm. Servo arm's are better that the handmade wooden arms.
Any help appreciated!
👍 Like
💬 Comment
👀 73 Views
1
📝 Lube supply
8 months ago by Sakibian ( Petty Officer 1st Class)
Petty Officer 1st Class)
Another thing i tried myself was the Lubricant supply to the propeller shafts. The oil supply box will hold the lube and slowly deliver to shaft sleeves. It's kinda funny but it works.
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👀 74 Views
1
📝 Setting the motors and propeller shaft
8 months ago by Sakibian ( Petty Officer 1st Class)
Petty Officer 1st Class)
I had to find a way,how to set up the motor so it can run and vibrate. I found this way myself and it looks promising,till now.
Conventional motor mounting used,made a lot sound and sometimes the universal joints just came out one side.
The way i set the motors now can run free and vibrate.
I wanted to know,how do you do it? Do you ever tried to make a flexible motor mount? If yes,how was it?
On the propeller shaft,im using brass rod,m2. Bought a thread cutter to cut threads on the shafts. It wasn't to hard. Using brass gives me a painless rust free running time.
I would use stainless steel but ss ain't easy to cut threads on it.
Conventional motor mounting used,made a lot sound and sometimes the universal joints just came out one side.
The way i set the motors now can run free and vibrate.
I wanted to know,how do you do it? Do you ever tried to make a flexible motor mount? If yes,how was it?
On the propeller shaft,im using brass rod,m2. Bought a thread cutter to cut threads on the shafts. It wasn't to hard. Using brass gives me a painless rust free running time.
I would use stainless steel but ss ain't easy to cut threads on it.
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💬 Comments
👀 75 Views
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💬 Re: Setting the motors and propeller shaft
8 months ago by Sakibian (
Petty Officer 1st Class)
I chose brass because it doesn't catch rust. And i had to cut some threads on the shaft. Brass is softer than SS.
I tried to thread my ss shafts but my drill machine can't handle it. I don't have lathe either so brass was my only option. Im putting some photos,there you can see i used brass shaft on them both and they didn't let me down,till now. 😐 So i had to keep faith! -Sakib 👍 Like
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👀 72 Views
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💬 Re: Setting the motors and propeller shaft
8 months ago by Colin H (
 Admiral)
Sakabian, I like your setup, but find it hard to understand why you used brass for the prop shafts as brass is brittle and will snap very easily if there is any vibration or sudden shock from props hitting submerged obstacle.
Cheers Colin. 👍 Like
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👀 80 Views
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📝 Sport fisherman build blog
8 months ago by Sakibian ( Petty Officer 1st Class)
Petty Officer 1st Class)
Always wanted to build a sportfisher. Now building one.
24" L, 7" Beam
Flashhobby 2300kv outrunner x2
360 A single brushless ESC
Name plate was laser cut on 3mm ply. Decided to call it "Show Time".
24" L, 7" Beam
Flashhobby 2300kv outrunner x2
360 A single brushless ESC
Name plate was laser cut on 3mm ply. Decided to call it "Show Time".
👍 Like
💬 Comment
👀 76 Views
1
