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    MTINGA IV
    16 Posts · 27 Followers · 123 Photos · 221 Likes
    Began 2 years ago by
    Admiral
    United Kingdom
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    Latest Post 2 months ago by
    Admiral
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    Most recent posts shown first   (Show Oldest First) (Print Booklet)
    📝 Rigging
    2 months ago by 🇬🇧 mturpin013 ( Admiral)
    ✧ 48 Views · 14 Likes · 5 Comments
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    The rigging for each mast was originally fastened to the deck with a rather unsightly piece of brass wire looped through the deck and glued underneath. I was sure I could improve on this however it may not be to everybody’s taste but a you may have noticed if there’s an easy way and a hard way I usually go for the hard way which tends to be much more time consuming and more difficult but for me much more enjoyable.
    I wanted the rigging to be easily assembled at the lakeside so attaching the wires must be easily done; each wire has a turnbuckle at its end to tension the wires with an attachment point directly by a 4mm eye. I have decided to use a fishermen’s device, which is normally for attaching a trace wire (I think) it’s just a quick way of attaching the wire (this may change on final assembly it could end up as a simple hook (picture later)) This device then attaches to the eye, which is fastened to the deck. As I said in the original plan, it shows a piece of 1mm brass wire pushed through the deck and epoxied under the deck leaving a loop on deck. Although this works, I wanted to do something a bit more robust and challenging and bring a bit of finesse to the yacht. Therefore, I produced a fitting for each of the four securing positions.

    These were made from 1.5mm brass sheet which was cut and filed to the double bulge on deck and straight on the sides the joint line was also filed to the curve of the sides to make a snug fit the two pieces were then silver soldered to form an angle piece. After trimming and polishing each piece had the 3 holes drilled and tapped M2 to take treaded eye bolt fitting, these will go through the deck and help make a secure fitting

    💬 Re: Rigging
    2 months ago by 🇬🇧 flaxbybuck ( Captain)
    ✧ 22 Views · 0 Likes
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    Thanks for your response Mike.
    On a number of occasions I have threaded a hole through a plate hoping it would be strong enough and each time I have had to put a nut on the back of the plate to provide sufficient thread turns to give the required strength. It all depends on how many Newtons you are dealing with ! 😉
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    💬 Re: Rigging
    2 months ago by 🇬🇧 mturpin013 ( Admiral)
    ✧ 26 Views · 3 Likes
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    Hi flaxbybuck the 4mm eyes will screw down into the hull, the only part visible will be the three eyes on each fitting that attach to the turnbuckles along with a touch of epoxy
    PS I may put a nut directly under the brass fitting as well
    💬 Re: Rigging
    2 months ago by 🇬🇧 Colin H ( Fleet Admiral)
    ✧ 63 Views · 5 Likes
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    That's super modelling shipmate, you have a good eye for a realistic way to overcome a poorly made method of attachment.
    I commend your beautiful work and outstanding quality of finish.
    Cheers Colin.
    💬 Re: Rigging
    2 months ago by 🇬🇧 flaxbybuck ( Captain)
    ✧ 41 Views · 5 Likes
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    I so like your attention to detail in making these fittings.
    Will there be sufficient thread in the 1.5mm brass sheet to resist the tension that will be put on the fittings ?
    Keep up the good work. It is looking superb. 😉
    💬 Re: Rigging
    2 months ago by 🇬🇧 ChrisG ( Lieutenant Commander)
    ✧ 42 Views · 3 Likes
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    Hello Michael,
    I think you have surpassed even yourself this time, I like you, was also looking for a smarter and more in keeping method of fixing rigging to the deck and as I am not clever enough, I have had to buy eye bots and turnbuckles. I fear that 6 of each fittings on each mast will look a little heavy but will see.
    I think what you have manufactured is near perfect both tidy compact and fit for purpose. You will have to keep it clear of handrails but like you I didnt like how mine was rigged with bowsies and hooks and eyes, bowsies have a place in sailing dinghies and camping but do not belong on Yachts, my view, maybe only and I apologies for that.
    Well done ChrisG
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    📝 Again back to the masts.
    3 months ago by 🇬🇧 mturpin013 ( Admiral)
    ✧ 78 Views · 13 Likes · 3 Comments
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    The masts are proving to be a monumental task, who would think the addition of a few LEDs would cause such an amount of additional work however, this is the part I enjoy solving problems and making things. In a past page I showed the wires being hidden in a brass tube going up the mast (it was previously used as an aerial), it was now time to attach the LEDs and devise a cover of some sort.
    First attach the LEDs leaving as much wire as possible to enable the LEDs to be fixed in the housings and also to solder to and as close to the shortened legs of the LEDs without damaging them and making it as small as possible. I think I can contain the LEDs in a space measuring 12 x 6 x 6.and a strap to fasten them to the Mast.
    I want to keep the cover in keeping with all the other fittings of the Yacht so I’m using 0.010" brass sheet . To make a container of suitable size I am going to make a press tool to form them making them uniform throughout. A small piece of brass bar will be durable enough to make a press tool that will last for 10 containers. Using a 6mm slot drill I cut the required slots using removable end pieces making it easier to remove the finished parts from the tool.
    I first cut the developed shape in a piece of thin card to test the tool. Satisfied that it will work I make a first sample test piece in 0.010” brass sheet, placing it in position I pull down on the drill press, the piece folds, but tears on one corner, the solution is to pre-bend the sides before using the press tool so that the wings I’ll be soldering don’t catch as it folds. A second sample proves much more satisfactory and forms a very pleasing result. Fast Forward and cut another 9 sample developed pieces and hope they bend up as good as the first one, they do.
    The next job is to make another jig to hold the box while the wings are soldered to secure the box shape this is simply a piece of wood with pins to hold the shape as its soldered. I now have to drill all the holes, one for the LEDs and two fastening holes either side. Each box is trimmed and polished before finally fitting each one to the mast. I need to ensure that there is no possibility of short circuit so I made 10 more boxes out of thin paper, which I can glue in position. I will leave them off the mast until final assembly.

    💬 Re: Again back to the masts.
    3 months ago by 🇺🇸 BarryS ( Warrant Officer)
    ✧ 67 Views · 1 Like
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    What a wonderful jig you designed. I will certainly keep this one in mind.
    I love learning new ideas.
    Keep up the good work,
    Barry
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    💬 Re: Again back to the masts.
    3 months ago by 🇨🇦 RossM ( Sub-Lieutenant)
    ✧ 68 Views · 2 Likes
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    That is amazing😮
    💬 Re: Again back to the masts.
    3 months ago by 🇬🇧 ChrisG ( Lieutenant Commander)
    ✧ 75 Views · 3 Likes
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    Hello Michael
    Your engineering knowledge and expertise is so superb it leaves me feeling lacking. I like can only admire and attempt to copy your work, so brilliantly carried out. Thanks for sharing all that development work with us.
    Keep up the brilliant work it would be worthy of a book for all up and coming model boatbuilders.
    Great stuff regards ChrisG
    📝 Electrics
    4 months ago by 🇬🇧 mturpin013 ( Admiral)
    ✧ 114 Views · 19 Likes · 8 Comments
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    The electrics consist of one 7.2Volt battery to power everything that being:-
    1 power switch and fuse
    2 ESC – motor/ propeller
    3 Receiver - Sail winch – Rudder - lights
    4 lighting – cabin – navigation – stern – bow - 2 masts
    I have made a black Perspex mounting which will support all the electric/electronic equipment/components. There are two voltage boosters to increase the voltage to power the LEDS on the masts, these have yet to be finalised.
    The two masts have power wires running up inside and are terminated with a 3mm jack and a socket, which is mounted beneath each mast socket so there’s no need for any connection of wires during set up at the lake, just drop the mast into its socket.

    💬 Re: Electrics
    4 months ago by 🇬🇧 flaxbybuck ( Captain)
    ✧ 82 Views · 1 Like
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    OK Mike. Good luck with that, and I hope it works well for you. 😉
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    💬 Re: Electrics
    4 months ago by 🇬🇧 mturpin013 ( Admiral)
    ✧ 94 Views · 3 Likes
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    Hi Flaxbybuck, your sort of right however, the travel on sail winch mechanism is the same as the shortest boom, and the attachment points for the two longer booms are located at this same distance from their masts.
    Or this is my present thinking it may change when I get the masts finished there's' all the metalwork to be plated yet, then I can try the theory I my end up using some reduction pullies.
    💬 Re: Electrics
    4 months ago by 🇬🇧 flaxbybuck ( Captain)
    ✧ 88 Views · 1 Like
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    Help me out here Mike. My mind is probably befuddled and fails to understand this.

    I understand that the main sheet needs to travel the furthest distance of all the sheets, and that this is the travel run created by the sail winch, without involving pulleys. Surely other sheets that need a lesser travel run will need to have this halved by use of a pulley, and perhaps then adjusted by selecting the attachment points on the respective booms ?

    Or am I missing something ? 😉
    💬 Re: Electrics
    4 months ago by 🇬🇧 mturpin013 ( Admiral)
    ✧ 100 Views · 6 Likes
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    Thanks for all those positive comments it makes writing a blog worthwhile in so much as other members are benefiting and enjoying the blog

    Flaxbybuck,
    "Now you are using a sail winch I understand you will have sufficient travel to control the main sheet, but how are you achieving a lesser travel distance for the jib sheet ? (You have probably told us, and I have forgotten)"

    This will be achieved by changing the attachment points on the booms so they are all equal, or variable as required

    Why voltage boosters are needed
    The LEDs up each mast (5 in all) are in series therefore the voltage needed is higher the benefit is you need less wires running up the mast (in a brass channel)
    💬 Re: Electrics
    4 months ago by 🇺🇸 Len1 ( Sub-Lieutenant)
    ✧ 109 Views · 1 Like
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    very well planned out and executed. Len
    💬 Re: Electrics
    4 months ago by 🇬🇧 flaxbybuck ( Captain)
    ✧ 99 Views · 1 Like
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    Thanks for showing us your yacht build. You have clearly taken great care in the planning and execution of each stage, and the photographs tell their own story. It is not often that we get to see the insides of a RC yacht to understand how it is controlled, but your series of posts make it clear.

    Earlier on when you were using a sail servo with lever arm you planned attaching the main sheet onto the arm end, and the jib sheets closer to the servo to get the required travel distance for each sheet.

    Now you are using a sail winch I understand you will have sufficient travel to control the main sheet, but how are you achieving a lesser travel distance for the jib sheet ? (You have probably told us, and I have forgotten)

    Excellent work 😉
    💬 Re: Electrics
    4 months ago by 🇬🇧 GaryLC ( Captain)
    ✧ 120 Views · 3 Likes
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    Hi Mike, and congratulations on that superbly engineered yacht installation, although I will admit to the fact the electronics are beyond my understanding. I absolutely love the complex deck-planking, and all the effort that went into it was well worth the finished result. If and when you have a minute spare could you kindly check your PMs,(you just might find one from me.) Regards, Gary.
    💬 Re: Electrics
    4 months ago by 🇨🇦 RodC ( Lieutenant)
    ✧ 108 Views · 4 Likes
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    Looks like a very neat installation. I dont understand why you need boost converters since you hav a 7.4V supply & LED lighting can be run off lesser voltages by changing the Ohmic value of their individual ballast resistors. Or is there something i've failed to grasp??🤔
    📝 Cabins
    4 months ago by 🇬🇧 mturpin013 ( Admiral)
    ✧ 119 Views · 13 Likes · 1 Comment
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    The cabins are in a poor shape, the veneer is cracked and lifting in many places, and the wood (balsa) is very dry with little strength. In order to strengthen the whole structures I decided to give it a coat of EasyKote and a layer of 1oz glass cloth, this will solve the cracking veneer and the weak balsa. The next process was 2 coats of red oxide primer giving a base for filling of any dents and cracks with body filler. The final finish will be white and Light green, the same colours as the hull
    The inside of the cabin was not very good and a bit rough to say the least. It’s a difficult area to prepare the surface for painting. Therefore, I have decided to line it with white plasti card, cutting the various shapes to be glued in position with a contact adhesive, I used this method in my Marlin Cabin Cruiser to great effect.
    The rear cabin is a problem because it has a mast going through the middle and if you need access to the rear cabin contents once the yacht is fully rigged ready for sailing it would mean removing the mast – not an option. The solution is to have the rear cabin split in two so it can be removed one side at a time. The cabin is held together with magnets and makes a sold unit when in place

    💬 Re: Cabins
    4 months ago by 🇩🇪 RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
    ✧ 117 Views · 2 Likes
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    Ingenious solutions to tricky problems, as usual from you Michael👍
    Gone into my archive of 'Tips n Tricks'.
    Great stuff.😀
    Cheers, Doug😎
    📝 The rudder
    4 months ago by 🇬🇧 mturpin013 ( Admiral)
    ✧ 122 Views · 6 Likes · 4 Comments
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    The rudder has been playing on my mind ever since I started this project. It only had a very small actuation arm when you consider the size of the rudder. It appears that once fitted the rudder is permanent and cannot be removed. The access is also very restricted through an opening 45mm x 45mm. I may consider making this larger.
    So major surgery is required, I cut through the rudder shaft at the bottom pivot allowing the rudder shaft to be removed freeing the rudder I now have to figure out a method of replacing the rudder with a removable system. I had to cut free the tube within the rudder to be able to replace it with a larger tube, 4mm bore. The shaft now has a 4mm thread on the top, which can support a larger arm. At the bottom of the rudder is a small treaded hole which takes an 8BA screw through it to secure it in position. The rudder is now actuated by a remote servo set near to the middle of the yacht where there is more space, and a Bowden cable runs to the stern.

    💬 Re: The rudder
    4 months ago by 🇬🇧 tiggy_cat ( Petty Officer 2nd Class)
    ✧ 108 Views · 0 Likes
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    With a rudder working in the relatively dense medium of water, I am not sure that I would rely on using a single Bowden cable. While you can get away with it on an aeroplane, on a boat I would go for twin cables , to each side of the rudder servo giving a pull/pull movement to the rudder rather than a push/pull effect of a single cable.
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    💬 Re: The rudder
    4 months ago by 🇬🇧 ChrisG ( Lieutenant Commander)
    ✧ 117 Views · 0 Likes
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    Hello
    The modification to the rudder fitting on your Inga I think is non standard but a damn good idea.
    I have managed to work mine in such a way that by releasing the rudder shaft at the top and with a little judicious fiddling can drop it out of the rudder tube from the bottom. I would not like to have to do this too regularly but I do not intend to do it often.
    I think we all need to bear in mind once the lid is on anything complicated is going to be a problem.
    ChrisG
    💬 Re: The rudder
    4 months ago by 🇬🇧 Rogal118 ( Lieutenant Commander)
    ✧ 118 Views · 4 Likes
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    Good morning Mt, and Cg. Ra,ingaIV here. I have been reading your posts recently regarding the Inga’s rudder. I have refurbished this part lately on my boat and never took much notice of the construction. I have enclosed a photo of my bottom rudder post layout. It consists of a metal block moulded into the keel with another block machine screwed into it parallel to the water line. This block then has a hole vertical to take the rudder post. Therefore to remove the rudder all that has to be done is release the 2 machine screws and the whole rudder drops out.this is of coarse after the steering arm is removed inside the hull.
    Not having built her from a kit I just assumed that was how it was. But it seems that from scratch the kit leaves it to the builder!.
    Roger.
    💬 Re: The rudder
    4 months ago by 🇬🇧 ChrisG ( Lieutenant Commander)
    ✧ 117 Views · 6 Likes
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    Hello Michael
    The dreaded rudder, The rudder coupling on my build has sufficient throw I think but it took some achieving and lots of butchery which I hate to admit.
    It all needs tidying up before putting the lid on although I am planning to cut a larger rear deck "window"
    disguised in some way to allow better access.
    The first photos are of the new build but I have added some of the original model, I do hope something helps.
    I am tempted to drop a drop of glue on a couple of the critical parts and consider them for life, not sure who`s.
    ChrisG
    📝 Back to the masts
    5 months ago by 🇬🇧 mturpin013 ( Admiral)
    ✧ 130 Views · 11 Likes
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    Now that the masts sockets are fitted the masts need to be finished. As I mentioned before I have inserted a brass tube running up the length of the mast initially to carry a wire to the top. However as the tube came in 300mm lengths I decide to put an LED every 300mm maybe a row of red and a row of green (just because I can) These will need a power supply . I also wanted the masts to be easily removable without any wires to be connected so at the bottom of each mast is a Jack plug, the socket is mounted at the base of each tube

    📝 Making the winch system
    6 months ago by 🇬🇧 mturpin013 ( Admiral)
    ✧ 141 Views · 19 Likes · 3 Comments
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    I have worked out that I need 390mm for the main sail to move a distance to bring it to 90 degrees to the hull. However the two other sails don’t need as much so I think the solution will be to attach each line to the appropriate point on each boom so the distance travelled will be the same for each sail.
    The winch is a HiTec 785 HB, which with a drum that gives a cord pull of 390mm at 3.25 revolutions. The winch can be set to different revolutions by altering the end points on the transmitter which makes it easy to set the length of cord that is wound onto the drum.
    I found in some early mock ups that as the cord is wound onto the drum and overlaps each previous revolution,the cord gets tighter which means some sort of tensioning system will be required to allow the tension to remain the same throughout the 3.25 revolutions. I think a spring which applies tension to the winch will allow it to move back and forth as the tension varies, A spring in the line is the easiest solution but it takes away some of the available travel distance.
    The size and shape of the hull means I will have to run the cord around a system of pulleys, which look a bit odd but is required to enable the unit to be removed from the hull in one piece making it easier to run the cord around the pulleys.
    There will be three attachments to the cord run, two on the port side and one on the starboard, each then running into copper tubes, which ultimately end up on the deck. Each exit tube is anchored to the appropriate pulley leading the cord to the next tube that takes the cord to the deck.
    The Mizzen and Foremasts are relatively easy to guide the cord as they leave the pulley via a copper tube and then to another tube that goes up to the deck. The main mast is somewhat more difficult as it exits through the top of the cabin, so this cord leave the pulley and then goes up through a copper tube and exits through a brass ferrule on top of a pillar.
    In the pictures you will see the trial system on plywood which demonstrates the general layout works , however as mentioned before about tension in the system it tended to bend the 4mm ply so a more substansial,6mm Perspex is being used in the final product.
    I have looked at a number of different attachment options , being the Knot, the cable connecter, the Fishing snap Swivels which may be the best option, to be confirmed.

    💬 Re: Making the winch system
    4 months ago by 🇨🇭 Mike Stoney ( Commander)
    ✧ 118 Views · 2 Likes
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    Wow!
    These are beautiful brass works! You must be a precision mechanic by trade . . .
    😳😳😳
    Keep up the good work!!!
    Bb Michel-C.
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    💬 Re: Making the winch system
    5 months ago by 🇨🇭 Mike Stoney ( Commander)
    ✧ 121 Views · 1 Like
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    Hi,
    I've seen a few ideas that I still need to improve!
    Thanks for the top photos, of course I didn't use roller bearings for my „Reine des Vents“, but stoled some metal bobbins from my wife's sewing machine.
    I'm sure you can imagine: Noise pre-programmed. .
    Regards Michel-C.
    💬 Re: Making the winch system
    6 months ago by 🇮🇹 AlessandroSPQR ( Commodore)
    ✧ 141 Views · 5 Likes
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    Hi mturpin013.

    I assure you that this is one of the most interesting posts for me.

    I absolutely need to understand how you control the sails.
    I am very critical of the system I used, but I was unable, at the time, to think of something better.

    Thanks for the detailed explanation (I'm rereading it because I don't translate well in some places) but above all thanks so much for the many images.
    Please post a video as soon as you can.

    Excellent work, good continuation.
    📝 Back to the deck
    6 months ago by 🇬🇧 mturpin013 ( Admiral)
    ✧ 145 Views · 14 Likes · 1 Comment
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    The deck has had some months to harden so I thought I would give it another rub down with wet and dry to remove any of the remaining low spots and in preparation for a final coat. I also thought it time to look at how the masts are secured; they seem to be poorly located allowing them to move from side to side. The masts themselves seemed to be in good repair however, the main mast had a brass square tube running its length, which I am assuming were to carry power to a mast light, again these were poorly fixed with small pins soldered to them. I have now machined a slot along the length of the mast to enable the brass tube to be sunk in flush to the mast. The rear mast also had a brass wire running up its length which according to the plan was an antenna, this is now not needed but I have sunk a brass tube up its length the same as the main mast to put a light at the top of the mast.
    The securing of both masts needed a better location method, the mainmast has had a brass ferrule added to its bottom and I machined a socket to accept it which was epoxied into the original location. I used a card template with accurate vertical lines marked on it which I used to hold the mast in its true vertical position while the epoxy set

    💬 Re: Back to the deck
    6 months ago by 🇬🇧 ChrisG ( Lieutenant Commander)
    ✧ 144 Views · 3 Likes
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    Very impressive work, I am envious of the build which will finish with one of the best Inga 4 around.
    Watching with a great deal of interest and ready to copy as many bits as I am capable of. Excellent work.
    Regards ChrisG
    📝 8 Painting
    10 months ago by 🇬🇧 mturpin013 ( Admiral)
    ✧ 169 Views · 17 Likes · 7 Comments
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    The hull when I got the yacht was still with its white GEL coat finish. However, I wanted to have a two-tone colour scheme, which was to be a lower hull in white and the above waterline in a pale green (this was a colour I had seen on a Fiat 500, so I looked up the code and had the paint mixed)
    So a nice sunny day and the first 2 coats of etch primer are applied, a light sanding and its ready for some minor filling with grey stopper fine filler, this dries fairly quickly but it’s advisable to let it harden for a couple of days otherwise it tends to shrink, usually after you’ve applied the final top coat. A final light sanding and it’s time to give a final coat of grey primer again time to dry and a final sanding and its ready for the topcoat of white, I decided to paint the whole of the hull rather than just below the water line.
    I am now ready to draw the water line, the plans give details of this, and dimensions so I level the hull as per plan and then using a Vernier height gauge with a pencil attached I can draw a line all around the hull. Now all I need to do is mask the lower hull, the top deck is still covered from priming, I now have to wait for favourable weather conditions to spray the green top coat.
    Aside you will see in the pictures another hull, this is the Marlin Cabin Cruiser which has shared the same colour scheme and has gone through the same paint preparation as the yacht.
    Another fine day and the top coat is applied it takes 5 coats before I’m satisfied that the depth of paint is right and the gloss acceptable, apart from final polishing.
    I will leave the paint to properly harden before final polishing and then apply the dark green line around the water line.

    💬 Re: 8 Painting
    6 months ago by 🇮🇹 AlessandroSPQR ( Commodore)
    ✧ 146 Views · 0 Likes
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    Hello Mike.

    The work is precise and clean.
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    💬 Re: 8 Painting
    10 months ago by 🇬🇧 flaxbybuck ( Captain)
    ✧ 152 Views · 0 Likes
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    Nice work Mike. This stage is one where it does not pay to try and cut corners. The time and effort will pay off and you will have a finish you are proud of. It certainly looks impressive to me !😉
    💬 Re: 8 Painting
    10 months ago by 🇬🇧 Colin H ( Fleet Admiral)
    ✧ 157 Views · 1 Like
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    Mike, thanks for the link, I contacted them but they only supply cellulose primers and thinners.
    They don't sell cellulose paint only acrylics and acrylic lacquer.
    Will have to keep looking, I found a vintage car restorer near Hereford that use cellulose paint, so I will ask them about suppliers.
    Cheers Colin.
    💬 Re: 8 Painting
    10 months ago by 🇬🇧 mturpin013 ( Admiral)
    ✧ 161 Views · 2 Likes
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    Hi Colin Cellulose is readily available around Leeds, my supplier is
    There are many more who do it on line just search for "cellulose near me"


    https://soll.uk/
    💬 Re: 8 Painting
    10 months ago by 🇬🇧 ChrisG ( Lieutenant Commander)
    ✧ 162 Views · 0 Likes
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    Great paint job, I have never been happy with my results at spraying, another skill out there that I have not got.
    I painted my slipper launch in duck egg blue which is a similar colour and on the right hull looks really good.
    The work that you put into this model is to be admired both the hull and the deck are amazing. I follow your build with interest and envy.
    Regards ChrisG
    💬 Re: 8 Painting
    10 months ago by 🇬🇧 Colin H ( Fleet Admiral)
    ✧ 164 Views · 1 Like
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    Mike where do you get cellulose paint from, I've tried my local bodyshop suppliers but they don't stock it anymore.
    Cheers Colin.
    💬 Re: 8 Painting
    10 months ago by 🇬🇧 Scratchbuilder ( Vice Admiral)
    ✧ 164 Views · 1 Like
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    Mike.
    As always up to your normal high standards.
    Regards
    Bill.
    📝 7 Deck Varnishing
    10 months ago by 🇬🇧 mturpin013 ( Admiral)
    ✧ 177 Views · 15 Likes · 1 Comment
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    For me this is an important process that should not be done without thought, I often see model with insufficient attention to deck preparation resulting in the applied medium cracking /lifting.

    So my recommendation is firstly to prepare the wood surface using reducing grades of abrasive paper, however this should only be done down to about 240 grade, a big mistake is to sand to a super smooth finish such as down to 600 grade. This has the effect of closing the pores of the wood, which limits the ability of the varnish to “KEY” to the wood pores, also being careful not to squash the grain of the wood by rubbing the surface after sanding with any hard tool.

    Next, wipe the surface with a tack cloth to remove any remaining sawdust in the pores. Using a solution of appropriate varnish thinner (white spirit in this case) wipe the surface to clean away any remaining dust (you only have to look at your cloth after this process to see what you have removed).

    I next use a 60 white spirit/40 varnish thinned solution to apply a first coat. After it’s dried then a light sanding before a second coat of 50/50. From this point, it is a personal choice as to how many more non-thinned coats you apply, but to get a gloss finish with that “depth” look then probably five or six coats will be required.
    Finally, with the best will in the world you will get bits of dust land on your final coat. This is where I would leave the finish to harden for two/three weeks.
    Then using a 1500 grit wet/dry with water and a dash of washing up liquid (to break the surface tension of the water), lightly sand the surface to remove any pips. The last process is to use a car rubbing compound followed by using a resin based polish (I use Autoglym Super Resin Polish) this polish has a very superfine abrasive in it, which will bring a super high gloss to your varnish with a silky feel to the touch.

    This sounds a longwinded process but if you require this type of finish that will last then you have to invest the time and effort.
    The pictures are at the 3 coats stage

    💬 Re: 7 Deck Varnishing
    10 months ago by 🇬🇧 jacko ( Lieutenant Commander)
    ✧ 172 Views · 2 Likes
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    when varnishing deck do it upside down ie hull uppermost so dust will not settle on the deck
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