Scratch built from own plans, fitted with own designed steam plant. Deciding on which model to build is most Important for success. if it's possible to have a connection it really helps, in this case the local pleasure steamer, scraped 1968 after 72 years of service. The first model boat I built in 2001 was P.S.Glen Usk, (sailed on her in 51 when I was 10 years old) this is getting a bit battered now, plus I made mistakes. Never increased the draft so the stability is marginal, Only used 16th balsa planking covered with aluminium plates, OK but fragile.
So another Paddler it was. The attached photo is most Important taken at 90deg, scanned into a computer drawing program. then draw in outline & Important features, delete the photo that's the elevation. I had collected as much information as I could including the measurements. No body plan of the Duke found, but I did have Glen Usk's & Duchess of Fife's used an amalgamation of the two.
This build is retrospective as can be seen in my harbour. More soon.

Yes I did that wrong. Wondered why I couldn't post photos. Please read my reply to myself below.

Here is a shot of the building board. Once the balsa deck & hull is planked I draw the plans on the model. Note the pillow better than a stand. Fixed the sponsons these are 1/4 balsa with 1.5mm ply glued on ether side. (Home made light ply.) On the bow a brass channel to prevent damage if I hit something when sailing.

At six feet long could be difficult to transport. So designed to split in half with out much effort & not be able to see the joint. The joint is 3/4" behind the paddle shaft, the wheels will cover it here. The join then goes along under the sponson then up through the doors in the bulwark. Held together by one bolt with wing nut & two pins. One end of the 1/4" thick pin fixed to the forward of those frames 1/16" apart, passing into a bush in the other. To avoid disturbing the steam plant a box extends in to the rear half, the small gap between can fill with water, but not enter the boat. Note the dowel through the sponson adding strength as I always lift here.

Yes it fits also made paddle shaft. Too the side can be seen the cut out from the deck, this will be the boat deck. The rudder made from aluminium. and fitted. Note the balsa has not been sanded in this photo.

My method for making the wheels. Only hand tools needed, although I did turn the hubs on the lathe. Previously I have used brass tube, 4 cuts down each end then bend back to form lugs, rivet on the wheels. That was the first attempt, being all brass they were to heavy & did not help the stability. So now I use aluminium the disadvantage it does not solder. This can be turned in to an advantage, see later.
first mark out on alI sheet about 3/32" thick. Cut 4 pieces well away from outside diameter. Stack together & drill centre & bolt together. Now the hard part, finding 1/2" gimp pins, (small wire nails used for upholstery not the cut variety). Drill a hole through the pivot point of one of the floats (paddles) to take pin. Push a pin through & cut off leaving a length about the size of the diameter protruding, place on a anvil ( big hammer ) rivet over the end with a small hammer. Repeat at two or three other pivot points. Drill holes at the corners to form radius & cut out with a coping saw. Leave the outer cut till last. File off the rivets & separate & clean up.

On the full size the frames of the wheels are not flat. To bend the spokes out from the hub to the middle ring I made the jig in the photo. The blank is held between the 2 pieces of ply with the holes in, the third a bolt through it & the blank. The bolt is tightened and with the help of the small hammer the hub is pulled down 1/2". IMPORTANT bend 2 one way & 2 the other. The frames are then epoxied to the turned hub. Note the brass rod to square the frames. IMPORTANT assemble the next wheel the opposite hand.

The hinge incorporates the feathering arm. First a pattern is made and strips of alI cut. Drill one hole ( to fit pins) in 4 or 5 strips, rivet together, do the same at other end. Drill the rest of the holes. Shape the blanks to the pattern with a file, remove the rivets and repeat until until all done. I made a jig ( 2 nails with heads removed in a piece of wood) to bend them to shape. Remembering to make a left-hand & right-hand set. in this case the floats are of wood, made to a pattern. The brackets are then riveted to them with those gimp pin. A photo of the prototypes floats show notches where they had been hitting the frame. So I did the same.

This is where the fact that solder won't stick to aluminium comes in. The floats are covered with masking tape, this is so I could spray the finished wheel. AlI tube with internal diameter to take the gimp pins, is cut between the frames minus the thickness of the brackets. I file a V until it has broken well into tube, the V s need to be 1/4" from each end. Push a gimp pin through the frame & bracket into the tube. Solder into the V s this locks the pin but still lets the floats rotate.

Brass tube this time with eyelets bent up from brass wire. Soldered up on another technical jig ( same wood same nails) 😁 Gimp pins and a small alI washer ( a square with a hole) Fix the rods to the king rod, which is cut from alI sheet. Solder the end of the pin & cut of. Grease on the brass wire eyelets helps to stop the solder sticking to the brass. The same method used on the rods to feathering arm joints. This method was used on the Glen Usk (except from the turned hub) and have worked with no trouble since 2001. I am sure you are glad this is the last post on wheels. 😭