The life lines, roll the string around a metal former (pipe) coat with weak p.v.a. When dry cut off the loops glued to the boat individually. The top of the former is replaced to attach the falls & hold up the cover. The cover is cooking foil coated with thick p.v.a. both before & after fixing. What good is a lifeboat if it sinks, we past the test.

A build blog on clinker boats, if I can find the time I will. No photos other than shown, so would have to build one. Just to wet your appetite as they say on Blue Peter. Here is one I made earlier. This one 3/4"= 1' for a Bristol Channel pilot cutter. Only one oar as they always sculled. So might be a long wait. Alan.
Flack. the lifeboats just quickies.

This was my first attempt, built for sailing trawler. Note the hurricane lamp, a torch bulb stuck in a nylock nut, wire handle with a small nut on the top. 🤒

Saved a wooden chair from the scrap heap, knew it would come in handy. Nice beech just right for the hand rails. The grain could be cut to follow the curves & enough straight as well. After cutting out a groove 1/8" deep in the bottom to fit over the bulwarks. Job done.

A close up of the rail, at the bulwark door. Open and shut on home made hinges. Also pictured the angle Iron supports for the bulwarks. Bent up from zink sheet, with the rivets punched in. When I need to lines of rivets, I put a row or three of self punching panel pins ( they have pointed heads) in a block of wood, leaving 1/4" projecting. Place on the back of the plate and tap with hammer. I have never had success with clock wheels, skid all-over the place. if anyone wan't to see how I make 1/4" square hinges ask.

Steps to the bridge. Mark out and cut the strings, the slots for the treads cut with a razor saw. Two cuts per step at the second cut force the saw away from the first and the waste will pop out. After preparing the treads glue in the end two. When these are set slide in the remainder. 😯 The main passenger stair is of different construction the treads fixed to cleats, not let in to the strings. The assembly procedure is the same.

I purchased the stanchions, they are made like split-pins. I used copper wire striped from electrical cable for the rails, a little soft but cheep. Bending the rails to shape on the deck. The first assembly ( as photo) not at all good. So I made small rings glued to the stanchions after threading on the rails. Fixed at the correct hight solved the problem of the wavy rails. They also simulate base plates.

The helm on paddlers normally in brass. Turned the rim & boss on the end of 1.25" brass rod, with a hole in the centre. Marked the position of the spokes on the lathe, no drill on the tool post. So drilled for the 1.5mm spokes very carefully. Glued the spokes in with epoxy. Back in the lathe to part off the rod, then bolt through the centre hole, back in the lathe to clean up the back, trim the handles.
The telegraph stem two different sizes of brass tube, the dial 1/2" tube filled with balsa and printed (on computer) paper stuck on both sides. All in place including the binnacle, the Iron balls are mapping pins the compass printed paper again. The finished rails seen with the dodgers, made from cooking foil covered with PVA glue & painted. The speaking tube just bent & flared out on the end.

Lights, not that I will ever sail in the dark. 😀 The search light forward of the funnel on the walkway. The bulb a 12 volt halogen, works on 6v fine. The lamp a container with a clear lid. The wife had something in it can't remember what. The wire pass through the walkway support.

Again won't be sailing in the dark, but they do work. I was given some LED's I think 💭 came out of computers? Striped the plastic holder, then stuck them in the brass lamps with clear bath silicone. Having painted the port & starboard red & green. Hexagon brass rod turned off centre. ( packed one jaw of the three jaw chuck). Milled a flat on the curved side. After parting off drilled up through to bottom.