The only thing with the port & starboard lights they are on the section that lifts off. As the light will be switched on rarely, just pins & sockets will do. The stern light wires are behind the bulwark stuachion. The mast light, the positive is the down haul rope, the negative connects to one of the mast stays. Sorry about the photo.

I like doors & hatches to open if at all possible. The companionways & skylights are made with home made light ply. Balsa with mahogany veneer stuck with Impact adhesive (Evostick). The pipe cleaner man I use to check the scale, as I have said I don't use plans as such.

How to simulate the hawser hole. 😓 I was quite pleased with the solution. Drill a hole up through a wooden dowel. Cut on an angle then a thin slice. Cut in half & turn the under cut piece over. Stick on & sand.

I think this feature unique to the P.S. Duke & Duchess of Devonshire. They both could be fitted with a gang plank at the bows. With reinforcement to the hull at the bow, the ship would be run into the beach, the gang blank lowered and passengers disembarked. An anchor from the stern would be dropped on the way in, this to hold the ship square to the beach. A dangerous practice, the Duchess was wrecked when the anchor gave way.

Life belts made from off cut curtain rail. The anchors from brass. Silver soldered together. I hold the pieces in place with fire cement, works well taps off after. Then build up thickness with soft solder. 🔨

Twin double acting oscillator, .75" bore .5" stroke, geared down 3 to 1. The boiler 2.5" diameter 6" long by two interconnected. fire tubes 28mm reducing to 22mm half way, ten cross tubes 8mm in each. Silver gas regulators up front, two required to balance the jets, as only one gas cannister. The separator not connected yet. All my own design & manufacture. Except the pressure gauge & cannister tap.

Just included this photo to show how the hull splits. The square box on the end of the bow section houses the engine. This avoids the need to disconnect any complicated pipes, just the steam valve servo to unplug. Water is allowed to enter the small space between the box & the outer hull, so no seal to give trouble.

I use springs on the servo arm for two reasons. The first to keep the wire taut & in the groove on the quadrant ( a cut down pulley from a cassette player). Second it prevents damage when putting a large model in a small car.

The switch for the receiver behind the doors to the ladies saloon. The falls to the lifeboats were originally unhooked when the deck was removed, but they got tangled in the process. I modified the davits cutting them at deck level, the falls stay connected to the boats now.
The red arrow points at a screw being inserted into the feathering gear to act as the pivot. 🔨

Started with 3/8" square brass bar in the 4 jaw chuck, drill 1.5 mm up the centre. Moving the bar off centre drill again, repeat on the opposite corner. Why put packing in a 4 jaw? mine would not close in enough. Hack saw off the corners with out the holes. 😁 Round off with a fie.
Turn up a wheel in aluminium, it won't stick to the solder later. Set in the tool post cutting off 1mm slices with a slitting saw.