Alan P has asked me to do a blog on clinker boats. The method I use is similar to full size, just simplified. This one will be a ships punt with a transom, not a ships life boat which is double ended.
I don't have a plan, (just like full size). Decide on the size, length first, then the hight. With the hight decided sketch out the stem on suitable wood, ( try a few till it looks right) try to avoid cross grain as much as possible, then cut out. The keel will be straight, at this scale I don't rebate ether,( as full size would.) Cut a piece of card the width & hight (slightly less than the stem). The width err on the wide side for now, can always reduce later. Fold card in half cut a notch top & bottom half the depth & width of the keel. Sketch a curve flattened out a the ends. When your happy with the shape cut out & unfold. Mark on wood, I use 1/8th balsa. Refold the card cut another former a little narrower than the last. Repeat for the transom same width as last but wine glass shape. Glue the stem to the keel. That,s it for to day.

Stuck the stem to the keel & left over night. After cutting out the formers & transom. Fixing the transom to the keel, boat builders would prop off the roof beams. My way, mark squared lines on build board, line the transom up to these, then square keel upright. An odd piece of ply notched to fit the top of the transom & stem. I was to Impatient the glue hadn't set & the keel transom joint failed, quick fix with super glue. Super glue not that good on wood I fined, but with PVA its fine.

I said no rebate in keel & stem. But should have cut a groove with a Dremel disk in both. Had to take off the ply. Put back then tried card strips to check the shape. Moving the formers alters the shape. Ticked the best, fixed the frames here. Thats all till Monday, 6 year old grandson coming to stay. We will be in the shop hammering nails, sawing, & drilling any stray bits of wood.

Under cut the groove with the Dremel. (that is the most difficult job in the build). The garboard strake is also under cut. Put the plank in the groove,(glue on the edge) hold the point down, slide forward into the groove in the stem. Pins to hold the plank up in the groove. Another pin in the transom can be left until later. The belt sander mounted on the bench is my home made thickness-er. A bracket bolted to the side , a copper tube acts as a roller, adjustable for hight. MUST FEED THE TIMBER AGAINST THE ROTATION OF THE BELT. Otherwise fingers will be thicknessed Don't ask. 😭

Lay edge of paper over transom, frames & stem to find the length of each. Need to divide (angle line method)to give planks of a scale 9" max. That is the width of the garboarb strake (forgot to mention). Copy and cut strips and glue to frames just mark transom & stem both sides.

I am using 3/8" strips of 1mm ply as planks. Lay the next plank against the previous planks edge, sand to shape until it touches all along. Mark a line 1/16" from the edge of the fixed plank, this will be the overlap. Chamfer the edge at the stem back a scale 2' (pencilled in the photo so it shows). the top plank is chamfered on the under side, the planks need to finish flush at the stem. (full size would be rebated.) With the plank fitted dry, stick a pin at the edge into each frame, transom & stem. Removing the plank the pins will show how much of the plank has to be removed to finish on the spacing marks. The plank will no longer be straight, working to the bilge this will increase, then decreasing until straight at the last plank. All the planks are fitted like this. Only glue the planks together & to stem & transom, not the frames.

It takes about 30 minutes to fit a pair of planks. A pair in the morning & a pair in the afternoon. Starting at the bow with the plank in the slot (this will hold it self) clamp the planks together. At the transom pins & elastic bands are used.

Looking on the net. Found these drawings, maybe some help!!!

I like to fit the stringers ether side of the top plank before the timbers (ribs). Ether way is acceptable, fitting inner stringers after will leave gaps between the timbers, at this scale no good when paining or varnishing. Fitting before, the timbers can be pushed under stringer and will be held down with no clamps or pins. The timbers are parallel with one another, although the camera gives the Impression they converge. Bamboo is ideal for the timbers, can be cut from kebab sticks. I have shaped the prow with sander, taffy will be pleased to know fingers intact. 🔨

Stringers in to hold the thwarts. Bamboo again, and the thwarts fitted. I use dividers to get the lengths. Also fitted the breast hook, any close grained hard wood will do. :hammer